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Old 04-26-2003, 08:03 AM
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Post Solid Trans Mount?

I'm running solid motor mounts and a midplate to tie my cage into on my T. Should I use a solid or rubber trans mount? I don't know if it matters but I'm running a four link and my driveshaft is 15" long.

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[ April 26, 2003: Message edited by: KA67_72 ]</p>

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Old 04-26-2003, 09:36 AM
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If I understand your statement correctly; you have solid motor mounts and an engine plate (mounted to the rear of the engine and attached to the frame). If this is correct, you do not need any transmission mount. As a matter of fact, if you did use a trans mount and the alignment was off even slightly, you would end up breaking something. Probably the trans because you would have three distinct rigid mounting positions.
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Old 04-26-2003, 05:30 PM
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First of all, I don't understand the solid motor mounts and motorplate "tieing my cage into my T". Please explain.
I think you should have a PLAN B in your book of drawings. This should include plans measurements, etc. for the installation of proper motor mounts and a transmission mount for the first week after you get that wild l'il car running and take a ride in it. Be sure to include a really comfortable seat in that bad boy, you'll need it.
Liked your first effort at metal forming, you've got some good things goin' here, with practice and more experience you'll be a real craftsman.
As I've repeated more than once on this forum, Buckets can long distance and every day drivers if they're built right. Even in a radical configuration like you've got, I think you can pull it off. If it's just a weenend night cruiser comfort be damned BUT think about the looks when you drive it 1 or 2 or 3000 miles to a major rod run....just a thought!
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Old 04-26-2003, 08:24 PM
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I just uploaded another picture which might help explain what I'm doing. You can see the solid motor mount and the begining of my midplate. There are going to be tubes running from the front of my cage, through the firewall, and mounting to the midplate just above the tranny. The car is going to be driven hard so I want to make the chassis as stiff as possible. If I ever finish the car, it will see plenty of miles. The sound of a turbocharged big block and a noisy quick-change is all the comfort I need.

Thanks for the reply,
Kevin

[ April 26, 2003: Message edited by: KA67_72 ]</p>
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Old 04-26-2003, 08:43 PM
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Frankly, I'd run one of those Energy Suspension poly jobs in there. They're stiff as hell but they will give you just enough wiggle not to tear stuff up. T's get really bad traction. Once you get a good drive train trajectory and alignment, I'd worry more about tire wear then I would U-joint problems. With a 15' drive line I'd explore the idea of a constant velocity front joint.
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Old 04-27-2003, 05:24 PM
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Are you talking about the double cardan CV joints I see in lifted trucks or a ball type. I got the trans in the chassis today and set the car at ride height. The driveshaft is going to be at about 15 degrees.

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Kevin
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Old 04-27-2003, 08:34 PM
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Either one will probably be a smoother power transition then nothing but a standard front universal joint.. If you decide on a CV, since your drive line's so short, I'd try the shortest application first. The double one will probably handle more torque though..

In that small of an arena, anything to help keep the horses from fighting each other over real estate is worth going that extra mile for.
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