Solid vs Hyd. Lifters...AGAIN - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 10:47 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Washington State
Posts: 272
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Solid Lifters vs Hyd. Lifters

Hey there,
as I mentioned before I picked up this cast# 3855992
396 4-bolt. Want to run a solid, but how much more maintenance
is involved in adjusting solid lifter than hyd? I know hyd would be
install and go, but I wanted a little more RPM AND performance.
Plus it is going in a 65 Malibu so I also wanted it to be in the general
decade performance wise. I am old school. Don't need to go 8sec
quater, but would be nice if this Malibu BBC, Mincie, 12 bolt was into the
11's. Is a guy out there adjusting these solids every weekend? or???
I was looking at the 396245 grind ISKY solid 108 lobe sep, .565 lift I think.
Thoughts??? or maybe go with the equal grind only hyd roller??
Thank you

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:09 AM
Irelands child's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Ford engine specifications Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 4,981
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 20
Thanked 242 Times in 218 Posts
There are just too many good hydraulic camshafts and performance lifters available to even consider a solid lifter version.

Now - if you were going to tell me that you want bragging rights, the sounds of a solid lifter camshaft, then that's a different story. And yes, you do have to wade in the splattered oil occasionally. How often - well that's not easy to say?? It depends on the miles you drive if it's a DD, how you drive, are you racing weekly as you can adjust for barometric pressure and humidity, etc. I still have my tried and true P&G Valve Gapper from my racing days - and it sure is pretty and shiny even 40 years later, but I don't mind it a bit that I'll never use it again

Dave W
__________________
Irelands child
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:13 AM
Guy Hiltz's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 1,003
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Personally I would go all solid roller.There are too many people having flat tappets,solid or hydraulic,losing cam lobes.But,by observing proper break in procedures and useing proper break in lubes & additives,there are lots of succesful break in's too.I use a solid roller cam,.668 lift,243/249 dur @ 0.050 on a 112 LSA.I usually put around 3000 miles a summer on my car and check lash once.Its always very close to where it should be,it doesent take that long.But I also use all top quality valve train gear,Isky EZ Roll "No Needle Bearing" lifters,PAC valve springs,1 peice 3/8 0.080 thick Comp pushrods,Crane Gold rocker arms.You cant cheap out here.Matching valve springs to your cam is one of the most important things to ensure longevity.Also,you may want to start with a bigger engine,454-496 or bigger.It will take a lot to get a 396 to put your Malibu into the 11's.Is this going to be a street car that will go to the track once in a while,or an all out strip car ?
Guy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:18 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Washington State
Posts: 272
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
hyd vs solid

thanks Guy Hiltz and everyone.
No my 396 punch to 427 is not going to be a strip
car. I may run it once to see what she'll do, but other than
that no. BUT..!...I want it to be there when needed. With the
427 cu.in and the 3.76 stroke I know they can move down the road.
Solid just sounds real nice, but hyd roller is maint. free.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:18 AM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 351W rebuild
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: tremont, pa.
Age: 70
Posts: 2,218
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Hi Dave,
If you don't intend to use that
P&G are you interested in selling it?
Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:34 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 875
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
We have gotten past adjusting hydraulics with the engine running and now we are checking solids with it running.....lol...... That thing sounds like a PITA. Solid yes whether its solid roller or solid flat....once you get used to checking them it will only take a few minutes to run through them
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:42 AM
Double_v23's Avatar
Horsepower Enthusiast
 

Last journal entry: Finished BMOD001FH
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,495
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
If you use the right locking fasteners then there is a good chance you won't have to adjust that solid cam more than twice a year.

Once everything is broken in and if everything is adjusted correctly they hardly ever move. As long as you don't mind the thing clattering all day (which I don't).

As far as wading in oil, I am not sure what this is in reference to, but the process is as simple as warming up the engine, shutting it off and then going through the rocker arms with a feeler gauge which takes about 20 minutes.

If any are loose you adjust them. The 20 minutes every 6 months is well worth the extra performance you get without going to a roller cam that can cost 5 times as much.

Don't get me wrong...roller is the way to go...but if it aint in the budget then solid is better than hydraulic in my book. And I have used all of them, I only put hydraulics in the motors of people who don't know what they are doing or don't care to pop a valve cover every now and then.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 12:08 PM
Guy Hiltz's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 1,003
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
If you havent bought a cam yet,you may want to call UDHarold Brookshire,he has been designing cams for many years,here is his home phone #
Harold is working for Lunati again and is making new profiles getting in touch with him is hit and miss he posted yesterday that his number is (662) 562-4933.
Tell him that Guy Hiltz from Nova Scotia said Hello !!!.
He supplied my camshaft and I couldnt be happier,I got just exactly what I asked for.
Guy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 01:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: California
Age: 68
Posts: 831
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 28
Thanked 23 Times in 20 Posts
Another option . . . Use a hydraulic roller with the new (to me at least) Rhoads roller lifters. Rhodes has made lifters for years that improve idle vacuum and reduce idle duration. Now they are making them with rollers for big and small block Chevies. You'll get a ticking sound, like solids (some say this sound is too loud) the adjustment advantages of a hydraulic, the wear advantages of a roller. And you can use a little more duration, because it'll only come into play at higher RPM (like, above 3500 or so).

Food for thought???

If I was building my 383 over again, I'd get a stronger cam and try these lifters. Bu tfor me it's too late until the next time around.

Pat
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 02:13 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Washington State
Posts: 272
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
solid vs hyd lifters

thanks PatM
yeah I like the maintenance of the hyd, but nothing beats
that old school 427 BBC, solid lifter sound and performance.
I am building a 65 Chevelle and want it to sound old school
beefy.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 03:04 PM
Guy Hiltz's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 1,003
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
If you want old school sound,a solid cam with loose lash settings is what you want,something with 20-24 thou lash.My solid roller is lashed at 0.014 and you can barely hear it ticking.
Guy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 05:12 PM
cool rockin daddy's Avatar
1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: wherever cool cars are
Posts: 1,535
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I thought I read that with poly locks adjusting solid lifters was a thing of the past. Man, if you have a choice, put a roller cam in it. Non-rollers and the oil they need to survive are going the way of the do-do.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 05:35 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Washington State
Posts: 272
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Solid vs Hyd. Lifters...AGAIN

Gentlemen,
Reading through all the threads and horror stories on
solid rollers, hyd rollers etc.. makes me kind of leary to
even go the roller route. I have this old 65 Chevelle I am throwing
together with a 396 4-bolt cast#3855962 (RARE). Wanted to go solid
flat tappet using Zinc to break her in then transfer to 5-50 full synthetic.
Then a buddy talked me into hyd roller which seemed like a good idea.
But as I said I am leaning towards you basic build now. I guess my question is
what would be the least worries and long life? I won't be racing on the track,
BUT..!! will be tearing up the streets and freeways when I DO drive her.
Actually these inquiries aply to both my engine projects..my 396 for old time
sake and my 4-bolt 454 that will be getting the 496 stroker kit rotating assembly (which is way down the road after she is running). I know GM started using hyd roller awhile back without any troubles. I have a 180K on
a 4.3L V6 in my full size 1/2 4x4 and still going OE.
Thoughts?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hyd. Roller lifters on Solid roller cam danrace1 Engine 6 01-28-2010 06:21 PM
Solid Roller Lifters For Street - Do They Require Direct Oiling? leejoy Engine 7 01-26-2008 11:26 AM
Hyd. Roller lifters problems hotrodf1 Engine 121 10-25-2007 02:31 PM
hydraulic cams/lifters brian12c Engine 4 03-07-2005 09:46 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.