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Old 02-25-2010, 01:11 PM
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Solvent pop

Alright...... Looks like I made a couple of mistakes with my top coat.
I ended up with alot of solvent pop on my horizontal areas, I let it flash 15 to 20 min between coats, had a nice heated spray booth, warm sunny day,good water trap.

Looks like I piled on to much paint on the flats

My question is the tech at the paint shop told me to mix it 8-1-1
Nasons says 8-1-2 the 2 being reducer could this have been part of my misfortune?

So now its a sand down and reapply I might just shoot the hood and trunk I can live with the vertical areas.

I tried wet sanding but they still show.....

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Old 02-25-2010, 03:50 PM
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leave it dry for a few days to a week then sand with 800 grit then spray light coats 3 coats let dry then wet sand build the layers up slow so the chemicals can work out paint drys from the inside out
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:38 PM
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Before we start sanding lets understand what solvent pop is. The reducer (solvent) is used to make the paint thin enough to spray. Solvent evaporates with heat.

What happened is that the paint (clear coat) skinned over due to the outside temperature. Then the solvent collected under the skin (dried outer layer of paint) and then popped through the skin.

You will not be able to sand the craters out. You must sand through the clear coat back down to the base coat. Wet sand with 400 until the little craters (circles) are gone. Then you can re-shoot your base coat and then clear coat.

Don't shoot heavy coats of clear. Spray just enough clear that you are getting good coverage. Watch the reflection of the clear in the light. When it gets shiny, stop adding clear to that area. Let it flash for 30 minutes if you want to . Forget about the 15 or 20 minute (so called rule). You can let it flash for an hour or longer if you like.

Use a reducer that is recommended for your temperature. I always use a slower reducer because it allows the clear to flow out better. (a lot less orange peel that way) But I allow a lot longer flash time too.

HERE IS A GOOD RULE FOR SETTING YOUR GUN FOR CLEAR:

Tape paper on the wall. Hold gun approximately 4 to 6 inches from the paper. Pull trigger and hold for one (1) second. adjust fan pattern to obtain a good () pattern. Adjust air pressure for good atomization of the clear, and then adjust fluid valve to where the clear does not run with a full one (1) second trigger pull.

Good Luck
Frank Cox
Cox Custom Cars
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:15 PM
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I would sand with a DA and 320 grit until they are gone? then wash the panel with wax and grease remover if there are any holes then you will see them if they are gone then repaint and clear I use only slow reducer in my clear
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:46 AM
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Thanks for the reply's, I should have been more specific I used a single stage system, Nasons Fulthane no clear. I also used a 1.3 tip and had a buddy watch the hose and the paint to let me know if I had any dry spots.
I spoke to the guy I got the paint from and he stands behind his mix ratio " we don't need as much reducer here its a cooler moister climate, makes it easier to shoot" west coast of Canada Vancouver Island
Spoke to another supplier he claimed that " always follow manufactures ratio and it could have contributed to the pop"
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