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leave it dry for a few days to a week then sand with 800 grit then spray light coats 3 coats let dry then wet sand build the layers up slow so the chemicals can work out paint drys from the inside out
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Before we start sanding lets understand what solvent pop is. The reducer (solvent) is used to make the paint thin enough to spray. Solvent evaporates with heat.
What happened is that the paint (clear coat) skinned over due to the outside temperature. Then the solvent collected under the skin (dried outer layer of paint) and then popped through the skin. You will not be able to sand the craters out. You must sand through the clear coat back down to the base coat. Wet sand with 400 until the little craters (circles) are gone. Then you can re-shoot your base coat and then clear coat. Don't shoot heavy coats of clear. Spray just enough clear that you are getting good coverage. Watch the reflection of the clear in the light. When it gets shiny, stop adding clear to that area. Let it flash for 30 minutes if you want to . Forget about the 15 or 20 minute (so called rule). You can let it flash for an hour or longer if you like. Use a reducer that is recommended for your temperature. I always use a slower reducer because it allows the clear to flow out better. (a lot less orange peel that way) But I allow a lot longer flash time too. HERE IS A GOOD RULE FOR SETTING YOUR GUN FOR CLEAR: Tape paper on the wall. Hold gun approximately 4 to 6 inches from the paper. Pull trigger and hold for one (1) second. adjust fan pattern to obtain a good () pattern. Adjust air pressure for good atomization of the clear, and then adjust fluid valve to where the clear does not run with a full one (1) second trigger pull. Good Luck Frank Cox Cox Custom Cars |
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I would sand with a DA and 320 grit until they are gone? then wash the panel with wax and grease remover if there are any holes then you will see them if they are gone then repaint and clear I use only slow reducer in my clear
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Thanks for the reply's, I should have been more specific I used a single stage system, Nasons Fulthane no clear. I also used a 1.3 tip and had a buddy watch the hose and the paint to let me know if I had any dry spots.
I spoke to the guy I got the paint from and he stands behind his mix ratio " we don't need as much reducer here its a cooler moister climate, makes it easier to shoot" west coast of Canada Vancouver Island Spoke to another supplier he claimed that " always follow manufactures ratio and it could have contributed to the pop" |
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