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Old 10-04-2010, 11:31 AM
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Solvent pop fix and prevention questions and other q's

Hey guys,

Note, questions are in bold cause they're spread through out.

First time painter here. I finally sprayed some color on my bug. It's looking good with the exception of some solvent pop, sags, and boo boos. I believe I'm on the right track to fixing these problems, I've researched it here, but would like some feedback. BTW, I would like a nice finish, but this will be a street car and not show car, BUT I would like to make it as nice looking as I possibly can. Basically I would be 100% happy with the finish as is if it weren't for boo boos and solvent pop. I don't intended to cut and buff cause I don't have the equipment necessary and money is tight with a new born and my wife becoming a stay at home mom.

Now that's out of the way, here's a quick summary of how I arrived to where I am to eliminate questions.

I used all Summit Racing's products, which I'm happy with the results so far. The problems I'm having are due to noob user error.

1. Washed and used wax / grease remover on original paint
2. Sanded old paint with 40-80 grit on DA to knock as much off as possible.
3. Body work (bondo, glazed pin holes)
4. 2 sessions of 2K High build. Wet sandeed with a final grit of 400
5. 1 coat epoxy primer to seal the body work and to give a uniform color
6. 2 coats S/S Hugger Orange
7. 2 coats High Solids clear.


Once I had my car sanded with 400 grit I wiped down the car with surface wash (wipe on with clean (blue) paper towel, wipe off with clean dry paper paper towel). Before I sprayed I gently wiped the car down with a few tack rags.

Spray time. Temp was 65-70. Epoxy is recommend to be sprayed between 65-85, mixed 1:1. I used a Medium activator for the s/s hugger orange and high solids clear, mixes 4:1. I reduced all the paint by about 1/16th to help it flow out.

I used a Harbor Freight purple gun with a 1.4 tip @ 40-45 psi. Clean air, so no problems there.

I sprayed a coat of epoxy primer, then two coats of s/s hugger orange then followed by 2 coats of clear. I allowed them to flash the proper time.

I'm guessing where I went wrong was I sprayed 1 wet coat of epoxy primer to get the coverage I needed. I should've spray 2 coats, I'm thinking...

My other mistake was laying on the clear in two heavy coats to get the gloss I want minus orange peel? After the first two coats of s/s hugger, it looked great and glossy. Solvent pop showed up after all spraying was done. I thought it was trash at first, but it's not.

I'm assuming it's solvent pop from looking at Vince's photo's, 302 Z28? They're tiny little craters no deeper than the coats of clear. See pics.

I also got a some sags from spraying too much in too little of a time. My plan is to get rid off all the solvent pop, orange peel and sags is to wet sand with soapy water using 400 grit and / or 600 grit. Then I plan to spray one wet over reduced coat to get a smooth glossy finish. Does this sound like a good plan?

The other problem I had is some boo boos. To spray my fenders I basically bolted them up to the car. I had plastic covering the car to catch over spray. I'm not quite ready to spray the body so I wanted to prevent more work. While I was spraying, plastic touched the paint in a couple places. What is the best way to fix this? Sand those areas and then just do some touch up spraying with a narrow spray pattern? Then clear my fender?

Let me know what you guys think about my approach to fixing my issues. Here's a video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEPALNDafsI

You'll see the sags in the video. Here are some pictures...




You can see the little craters, solvent pop here, in the reflection.






More solvent pop.






Here's the boo I was talking about. This happened in a couple places. Granted, the fender beading will cover almost all of it, but I want to fix it.






This last pictures shows the solvent pop well. You can also see some orange peel down towards the bottom of the fender.




I'd love to hear your feedback...Thanks!

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Old 10-04-2010, 11:48 AM
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Your right, that last photo looks EXACTLY like what I had...SOLVENT POP. Sand the existing clear until it's all gone then sit the piece in the sun for an entire day. Your next coats of clear should be put not so heavy with extended flash time.

If you sand through to the base no worry, just shoot another coat of base overall after letting the piece sit in the sun. Apply your first clear as a dust or very light. Allow extended flash time for second and subsequent coats.

Vince
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Your right, that last photo looks EXACTLY like what I had...SOLVENT POP. Sand the existing clear until it's all gone then sit the piece in the sun for an entire day. Your next coats of clear should be put not so heavy with extended flash time.

If you sand through to the base no worry, just shoot another coat of base overall after letting the piece sit in the sun. Apply your first clear as a dust or very light. Allow extended flash time for second and subsequent coats.

Vince
Thanks for your reply, Vince. I was hoping I would get some feedback from you cause I remember you had a similar issue. Also, when I google image searched solvent pop, your image was probably one of the top three. It was also easy to see the issue.

Sounds good. I believe I shouldn't have an issue with sanding through to my color because it's single stage, correct?

Will the final finish of the clear come out smooth, free of orange peel for the most part, if I do it in lighter coats? I really would prefer not to cut and buff if possible.

What do you recommend for the areas where the plastic touched the paint?


Thanks again!

Matt
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:26 PM
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Also, what would you say is a more realistic flash time? Spec sheet says 10 minutes. Recoat window is 18 hours.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ne%20paint.pdf
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:17 PM
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Overspray the clear onto a piece of paper next to what you're spraying, when that clear on the aper feels sticky/tacky, the panel is ready for another coat of clear.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:23 PM
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Sounds easy enough. Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:28 PM
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Just remember that published flash times are miniums under ideal conditions..with an 18 hour recoat time you could let it flash overnite before re-coating..So shoot a coat and go have lunch or something before shooting another..and as far as cleaning between coats just check for trash is all and all I will use between coats is a waterborne cleaner if at all needed..out of money? Mix rubbing alcohol and water 50/50 and use that..let it dry throughly before shooting..and ditch the blue towels and get white ones..

Sam
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:34 PM
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Thanks, Sam. I'll just let it flash longer. I gave it exactly 10 minutes before moving on. I'm going to try an hours time at least and see how that works.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:40 PM
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10 Minutes is not long enough IMHO. I agree with the suggestion on shooting a light coat then go to lunch, or overnight. Wait at minimum an hour between clear coats. Do not use any cleaner unless between coats, just blow it off lightly with your spray gun before laying material down.

Vince
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:36 PM
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Hey your on the s10 site too. Good work so far. The only problem with wet sanding it is when done youll half to have it buffed. I would let it sit out in the sun for a full day after wet sanding then re clear. It helped on mine some but i used cheep/crappy clear.
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:50 AM
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All very good advice...in order to prevent future problems outline with paper about 12" then put your plastic under the paper and tape it down ..You could also shim the fender with a few paint sticks to keep the fender away from the body,a stack of two or three should do it..
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:50 AM
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm confident I can get the results I'm after with my new found knowledge. Great idea on the paper. I'll give that a try.

@ Badtoad454 good to see you over here. I enjoy this board. Lots of knowledgeable experienced people.
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