[dannyidp]

I know that this issue has been discussed alot around here. but I still have a problem. got to spray again today and solvent pop once again.. to much humidity I think, or i'm putting it on to thick I can't seem to spray it thin with out orange peel. but man this hood looks like a mirror except solvent pop, anyways my question is if I wet sand the hood down and let it gas off and not get all of the pop out will my next coat of clear fill in th impressions? thanks for any and all info......

[302 Z28]

No the next coat will not fill in the impressions, their will be slight depressions remaining if you re-clear. Sand the hood enough to remove all the divots if you can without going down to the base. Then place the hood out in the sun for an entire day....do not rush this step. When you start to respray the clear start with a light mist or dust coat. Once that has flashed you can apply a heavier coat and so on. Allow plenty of flash time between coats and don't build up heavy coats.

Vince

[dannyidp]

thanks 302 Z28 have you got a 302 in a Z28 LOL?i'll give that a shot but I can't shoot a light coat without it looking or feeling like sand paper is this what you are talking about?

[crashtech]

I don't know a lot about what you are spraying, but some pop problems are partly due to the solvent types in faster drying clears. I don't know about dry coats, as I personally would not do that, but maybe try not to flood the clear on to eliminate all orange peel, you will have a small amount with urethane, it's just its nature. A slower reducer will enable you to put a slightly thinner coat with just as much gloss. Then find the maximum flash time allowed by the material and tend toward that maximum before applying your second coat. Slightly higher air pressure can reduce orange peel as well, and kick out some of the faster solvents so the coating that lands on the vehicle has slightly more solids.

What Vince said about not rushing is VERY important. If you can sand that thing and leave it alone for a few days, that would even be better, because it is common for solvent pop to lead to more solvent pop, etc, until finally the panel ends up needing to be stripped due to material buildup.

[cjperotti]

Vince has you on the right track. Check your tech sheet and find out the cure time to refinish the clear you’re using. If you’re trying to recoat before the cure window has expired you will continue to experience solvent pop.

[dannyidp]

thanks guys!! I have tryed everything that has been mentioned except a slower reducer and a light first coat which will be a little tricky for me because I like to spray it like I want it to look ect. I will have to say that orange peel has been a problem that I have over come by just opening up my fluid and air and letting it flow but eliminating orange peel is causing pop.I need to post a pick if I get some time I'm telling you guys this hood is 99.9% orange peel free like a sheet of ice with pop of coarse......

[jeremyb]

Are you letting it flash enough between coats? How many coats? The heavier you put on, the longer you really need to flash to let all the solvent out. It is possible that you are "hosing" it on too heavy, which will cause pop also.

[dannyidp]

yea I'm putting it on pretty good I don't know how thick but i'm not getting any peel just pop. THE KUSTOM CLEAR THAT I'm using said 10 to 15 min flash Ihave been giving it 30 mins. Its popping on the first coat.

[jeremyb]

Let me ask you this, is it just on the top surfaces where you are getting pop? Sounds like you are just laying it on too heavy.

[TRI5GOORU]

In My Experience Applying Too Much Material Too Quickly Is Always The Cause Of Solvent Pops. Be Sure To Allow You Product To Flash And Or Dry Properly Before Topcoating. As For Removal Good Luck Its Not Going To Happen. Once They Are There They Stay Even If You Bake It They Make Arise Sometime Later...good Lucki.

[crashtech]

Originally Posted by dannyidp

yea I'm putting it on pretty good I don't know how thick but i'm not getting any peel just pop. THE KUSTOM CLEAR THAT I'm using said 10 to 15 min flash Ihave been giving it 30 mins. Its popping on the first coat.

Is it speed clear? Popping on the first coat is definitely a sign of something being way out of whack. I've run into one material that did that to me, the rep blamed it on me, but I quit using it and have no problems with any other material. High solids, fast curing resins mixed with fast flashing solvents can pose a challenge.

It could be that your spray pressure is on the low side, this will encourage solvent trapping. Also, it ought to be fairly obvious that a (slightly) less heavy first coat is what your combination of conditions demands.

I really think you need to give up going for that perfectly smooth as glass look, at least with the clear you have. I am assuming it is a speed or repair clear. If you don't wish to modify your technique you might try a bit of slow reducer, or switch to a slower premium clear designed for overall refinish jobs, these tend to stay "open" a lot longer and will let out more solvent without it forcing through the partially cured top layer, leaving popped bubbles in its wake.

[dannyidp]

thanks for all the tips.I am using a kustom shops over all clear with medium reducer going to try a slow reducer and see if that helps.has anybody had solvent pop issues with kustom shop clear>? I have sprayed dupont and transtar in the past,I have never had solvent pop before no matter how thick or thin it was sprayed, then again this is my first time spraying in the winter,but my shop temp is around 75.

[BarryK]

First if a clear is popping in the first coat that is caused by a totally different set of reasons then if its popping in the second or third coat.

First coat only popping.
Three reasons:

Wax and grease remover not totally evaporated from surface.

Re-clearing a fresh painted surface like wet-sanded clear and solvents are still trapped in first set of clear.
Day in sun will cure this problem.

This is what i would assume is your problem, if not above, air pressure in gun is to low or gun is poorly adjusted and you are not kicking out the pre-flash solvents before the clear hits the car. Add 5-10 lbs of air pressure (not sure where your at), also adjust gun properly.

Can only be one of the three items if in first coat.

[dannyidp]

thanks barry . I was shooting over a panel that was sanded but not because of pop but a little trash. I sanded the panel with 1000 and let it sit for three days in my shop. I washed it with dawn rinsed well wiped dry. then resprayed and on the first coat boom pop pop pop .gun pressure on my hvlp is 33 with trigger pulled it's a piece of sheet devilbiss finishline 3 . come to think of it most of my pop is coming after I wet sand the clear and reshoot. hmmm. thats odd.

[BarryK]

That is a very common problem, when shooting over fresh wet-sanded clear, what people don't understand is even if it sets a week inside, not all solvents will come out.
Safe way is wet-sand and set out in sun for half day or all day, all you need is sun, does not matter if 100 degrees or 10 degrees, the UV's will pull out the solvents.

Usually, this will only show up on second coat as first coat draws solvents out but to show up on first coat means there are a lot of solvents left and that could be gun issue or air issue also or humidity.