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Old 03-02-2004, 08:51 PM
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Some pictures of my doors

I posted some pictures of the work I did on my doors thus far. They are far from perfect, but I'm happy with the results for being entirely unexperienced at this. As long as the door fits, is functional, and looks pretty decent...I'm happy.

take a look let me know what you think. I went to take pictures of my fender dilemna but my camera ran out of batteries after three shots of the door.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:17 PM
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Where's the Pic's
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:52 PM
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<-----CLICK MY AVATAR.
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:02 PM
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Looks much better What year is that ? I can never keep truck years straight.
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Old 03-03-2004, 05:14 AM
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Nice work. When you do the bondo use a sanding board about 18" or so long in a cross hatch pattern. It will help keep everything flat so you don't wind up with a friendly door (wavy).

Centerline
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Old 03-03-2004, 07:01 AM
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it's a 1957. I think they call them "Task Force", and except for the grill, it's the same as a 1955 second series.

I hit the inside with POR-15 up to where the welds are. I think I'm going to hit the entire outside with it too, sand lightly and then use some Evercoat as filler.

Thanks for the recommendations on the friendly door. =)

The previous owner had tons of bondo on the truck, and it actually looked decent. I kind of wondered how he managed to get so much of it on in a uniformed way.

Do you figure it's best to mount the door and then hit it with filler?
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Old 03-03-2004, 09:56 AM
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I don't think I would use POR on the outside of the door. Use a good etching or epoxy primer and then go to bondo. POR doesn't have a good history when it comes to applying body filler on top of it. Just my opinion though.

When it comes to doing the bodywork it depends on if its easier to handle them on or off the truck and if you intend to use a metallic paint. If not you can do all the bondo work, priming and final paint off the truck. If you're going to use a metallic paint then final paint the door jamb and inside of the door off the truck but wait till the door is mounted before painting the exterior of the cab. This will assure all the metallic and color will match.

Good luck.

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Old 03-03-2004, 10:02 AM
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I'm going to take a stab at it with the por-15 under the filler. It may have a "POR" history, but we'll see how it goes.

I intend to blast the entire truck with primer then clear coat...if I'm remembering correctly. I'll have to pull up the old thread when I was asking about it.

shooting for a nostalgic hotrod look. So it's ok if it's dented up a little.
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Old 03-03-2004, 01:33 PM
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clear coat over primer? interesting. blowing off centerline's advice? hmmm. tri five doors are tough on the bottoms cause you cant really pound them out from inside. needa slide hammer. you can get bondo on thickly as long as you only put onna eigth of an inch atta time. better do alittle research on this my 2c's
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Old 03-03-2004, 02:48 PM
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well truth is I've already got por-15 on the outside of the door bro. So it's a little late to turn back now. Besides, the worst that can happen is the filler chips off because it can't adhere to the POR and then I end up having to restrategize this thing.

I appreciate all advice I get here. Thing is as the saying goes...opinions are like...and everyone has one. No matter which path you take, you end up stepping on someone else's toes.

I have heard people say that you should put PRIMER on first, then use your filler. I've heard the opposite too. I figure if you scuff up the por15 a little, what really makes it a different surface from primer?

I've also heard that Evercoat's Metal 2 Metal has been used right over existing paint...I don't remember who made the post but they said that their landlord or something just went out and slopped a big glob of it into a massive dent on his van...didn't strip the paint or anything, and it held up fine. So how can applying it to scuffed up Por-15 be so bad?

??

as for the paint, I can't remember what I'm supposed to do for the primer look. There were a few different opinions on the idea. One was to mix white into black until I got the same look as primer...there were a few others, don't recall.
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Old 03-03-2004, 02:50 PM
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I would not put bondo over POR15. Grind the metal to rough it up. Give it some teeth for the filler to bite into. Most vehicles rust from yhe inside out anyways. With primer over the top and a clearcoat you will be waterproof on that side. It's the other side you need to worry about.

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Old 03-03-2004, 05:21 PM
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I realize my last post may have sounded a little assholish, it wasn't my intent. I just know everyone has a different approach to doing things. I respect that and I'm here to learn.

Like I said I already hit the outside with some por. I figure it can't hurt anything to finish the door off with POR and let you guys know how it turns out.

My main concern is that primer isn't really as durable as por is. SO I figured if I hit the entire panel with the POR it will seal them. hopefully.
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Old 03-04-2004, 08:48 AM
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okay first, i am actually interested in the clearcoat/primer deal, even tho i should know by now. most primers are porus? and need coating, but if they are clearcoated seems they would lose the suede look so is the answer adding color to epoxy based primer? i dont know so forgive my ignorance.

however, i know alot about that boob that said his landlord globbed it all over his van. it was me!!! rather my landlord. he put it over regular paint tho. granted it was paint that came out of a spray can, but paint. it did look great after 5 years. it's called "All-Metal" and it's all i use anymore, as well as glazing bondo, which also adhers to paint. his van got hit last month tho, i havent taken a close look at it yet to check to see if the bondo fell off. it was actually quite amazing that his van looked good 5 years after putting the crap on and it was in a high water area behind the rear wheel and not only that, we live in washington!
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Old 03-04-2004, 09:29 AM
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Have you considered www.zerorust.com ?

It applies to bare metal and does not require a top coat, I was told it does, but went to the site and it says it doesn't. I am told if you don't apply a clear it will fade and give you the hot rod look, and its fairly inexpensive at $35 +/- per gallon.



357ford
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Old 03-04-2004, 10:42 AM
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well I don't recall the specifics on how to keep the suede look with the primer. It has been discussed more than once here.

BUT, ponder for a minute...if you coat a panel with POR, then do your filler...then shoot it with primer...do you think it would rust?
I'm thinking it would not. so clear over primer wouldn't even be necessary (assuming the primer/filler will adhere to the por)
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