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Old 11-07-2010, 01:27 PM
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Son's spraying colour next weekend- Will he be OK?

My son is planning on spraying his '72 Celica (350 SBC/4 speed Saginaw) next week end. He's spent many months doing the bodywork on it, and I thought I'd check with you all for any hints to make sure it comes out well.

He's using single stage white, and plans to colour sand afterwards. He'll be doing it in his single car garage. He's going to hose everything down the night before, dust the car down the next day, and shoot.

He knows that his Craftsman portable compressor is too small, so he's going to rent a gas powered 12 CFM/90 PSI unit to do the job. He will run a 25 ft. hose off this to a water trap and then to a 1 micron filter I bought him, then to the gun. The gun is a Sata HVLP, not sure which one. He said he checked online and the reccommended gun pressure was about 28 PSI.

He plans on doing the body separate from the doors, front fenders, etc.

I think heat is going to be the problem. Kind of humid around here on the Wet Coast, with daytime temps around 12-15 C. (that's about 54-59 F. for you US guys) It'll probably be raining although it's sunny right now. He has an electric forced air construction heater, but that's all. I suggested he leave the heater on all night to warm the car up, then turn it off an hour or so before he dusts the car off.

His experience runs to mostly primering with the small compressor. He did work in a auto restoration shop for a year or so, but his boss never let him actually spray colour, primer only. He did the engine bay and that turned out beautifully.

What do you guys think? Any last minute hints would be appreciated, keeping in mind he's stubborn and probably won't change what he's doing too much. Thanks!.....John

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Old 11-08-2010, 07:23 AM
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I've been doing my first full paint job, so can't lend much experience, but I will say that my garage is far from a paint booth and hosing the place down really helps. I would suggest hosing the floor down before mixing any paint and agian if it's drying by the time you are ready to spray. A wet floor will trap anything that hits it and keep it there long enough for the paint to tack. The drawback is, obviously, a wet floor. It can be slippery and may slosh some water if your not careful with the hose. Well worth it in my opinion. The amount of dust that ends up in the finish is drastically reduced.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:21 PM
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Thanks, that's probably a good idea, as long as your not splashing on the paint! I'd like to figure out how to warm the garage up a little without blowing dust around.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:45 PM
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If the air hose lays on the wet floor during the paint session water can creep into the fitting and will spit through the spray gun and can create a problem, hang the hose end rather than let it hit the floor.

Some painters will wear sunglasses to see with white...

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Old 11-09-2010, 12:57 PM
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Thanks for the hose tip! Sunglasses eh? I know he's concerned about the visibilty. I'll mention that to him. Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:34 PM
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More important than anything else is good ventilation and proper protection. You shouldn;t spray anything with iso's (hardener) without a supplied air system but that can be tough for a one time job. If there is good ventilation you can get away with a good respirator as long as it has fresh organic filters. I now have a fresh air system but I have sprayed several cars with just a respirator and about half the time I inhaled enough of the iso's that I was sick afterwards and I have an exhaust fan built into my garage.

Without good exhaust the overspray will fall back on the surface and you have a good chance of trapping solvents which can cause the gloss to die back. Been there, done that...

As far as getting dirt in the paint forget about the floor, I sweep it clean and wet mop but make sure the floor is dry before I spray. The biggest source for dirt in the paint is the painter, get a paintsuit, wear a headsock and gloves, not only will it protect the paint from the painter it will help to protect the painter from the iso's in the paint (they can absorb through the skin).

Protection and ventilation, that's where you need to start, then you can have fun!
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 39Hemi
More important than anything else is good ventilation and proper protection. You shouldn;t spray anything with iso's (hardener) without a supplied air system but that can be tough for a one time job. If there is good ventilation you can get away with a good respirator as long as it has fresh organic filters. I now have a fresh air system but I have sprayed several cars with just a respirator and about half the time I inhaled enough of the iso's that I was sick afterwards and I have an exhaust fan built into my garage.

Without good exhaust the overspray will fall back on the surface and you have a good chance of trapping solvents which can cause the gloss to die back. Been there, done that...

As far as getting dirt in the paint forget about the floor, I sweep it clean and wet mop but make sure the floor is dry before I spray. The biggest source for dirt in the paint is the painter, get a paintsuit, wear a headsock and gloves, not only will it protect the paint from the painter it will help to protect the painter from the iso's in the paint (they can absorb through the skin).

Protection and ventilation, that's where you need to start, then you can have fun!
Hi guys…I am new to the forum. Upon doing many Google searches, I often came across this forum for information and I am glad to now be a member. I decided to post here because of the content regarding both temperature and safety. First off, I am an amateur to say the least in regards to painting. I own a compressor for various things but I do not own an HVLP gun for painting YET. I do business with a very, very good body shop in town whom I happen to know personally…they have done a handful of cars for my father and I. Anyhow, for ****s and giggles I have decided to panel paint a fender on one of my cars. I am going at this with ”semi-primitive” tooling but my curiousity has peaked and I have to answer the bell by doing so, I intend on painting this fender with aerosol cans. I am utilizing PPG urethane base in an Easy-Touch spray can supplied from the local auto-paint supply store. I have also procured some SprayMax 2K Glamour clear coat. I have the panel prepped and ready for paint but I must first hit a few spots with U-POL #8 where I burned through to the bare aluminum. It appears that this product is OK for this exact problem/phenomenon and can be based over in short time(without sanding). Now….I know this isn’t optimal by any means, but I will be painting in my garage and the temperature is projected to be ~ 60F on the day slated and I am concerned about cure time and/or product performance so my question is…should I pre-heat and post-heat the panel(s) with a heat gun to raise the temperatures or should the temperature be adequate?

I will be painting with my garage door open and the SprayMax 2K does have Iso’s so, do I need the A2P2 respirator or is the P95 organic vapor going to be suitable? Any videos I have seen, the operator appears to be shooting this with the P95 and I have asked a few paint shops about the A2P2 and they look at me like I have 6 eyes….they have never heard of them. They are easy enough to find online (3M) but I do not want to drop $50 on the mask unless it’s truly needed. I DO value my health for sure. So, between temperature and health concerns…I would love to hear your opinions/thoughts/facts. Thank you very much in advance for your time!
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:03 PM
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So, my son got the body painted on Saturday. Came out almost perfect. A few runs but in easy to sand spots. 3 coats of single stage. Now he has to get the doors, hood, trunk lid, and front valance done. He's planning to colour sand what he's done first.
He had a box fan set up under the door of the garage and that worked really well. The only trouble was with the rented gas driven compressor. It had 2 small tanks, but it was rated at 15 CFM at 100 PSI, but he kept running out of air. I watched it for a while and the tank pressure never dropped below 110 PSI, but the regulator pressure went down real quick. It took like 3 seconds to build the pressure on the regulator back up, so it went ok. Would that have been the small tanks, or something to do with the regulator?
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:02 PM
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You should be okay with the temperature as urethanes are very forgiving. I usually heat up the garage first before I spray, but an hour into it and the fan is going and the furnace is off. So the cold is going to take over for lack of running the heat while you are spraying.
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