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Old 08-15-2006, 04:12 PM
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Soon to be outta the shop!

Is my 355, and with that of course comes a few assembly questions. I have accidentally stripped out the flexplate threads on the crank so i'm wondering if a helicoil will cure this problem?

And i have had brand new ARP wave-loc rod bolts installed, and have heard about things like measuring rod bolt stretch so i can torque this properly, how do i go about measuring rod bolt stretch?

I'm going to do everything right the first time so give me any re assembly advice you got.

What is the proper technique to cleaning all the parts before assembly?

And i've also heard two ways to break in the motor, both include breaking the cam in first, so no doubt will that be the first thing i do. But the second part of seating the rings is a little fuzzy, some say run it like no tomorrow, while others say to vary the rpms while driving and kind of taking it easy? What are the pros and cons of each?

Also this engine will never be taken over 6500 rpms in this form, and it will be running what i assume to be a five quart pan( could be a 4qt thought).Also i will use stock rod and main bearing clearances. so what brand and kind of oil pump do you recommend?( i was thinking Mellings M55)

What should i do to make sure this thing will fire in the first few cranks, aside from filling the bowls and setting timing to tdc, and what harm will it do to the cam if the engine stalls during cam break in, and if it stalls should i just restart the cam break in or what?

The bottom end consists of these items:
Polished Stock cast "X" crank
Resized and cleaned Stock "X" con. rods
Speed pro hyper flat tops
and speed pro rings with i think moly top, cast second.I believe they are 5/16" but could be wrong.

What does change in ring gap affect?

What spark plugs are reccomended for my 882 heads.

Lots of questions but i sure would appreciate answers, because i can only afford to build this motor once for right now. I would just hate to have to tear the motor apart again, and i just like to be thorough!

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Old 08-15-2006, 04:48 PM
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the break in instructions for the GM 260 Hp 350's and the 290 Hp 350 crates say to prime the engine, start engine and vary the engine rpm's up to 2,500 but not below 1,500 for 30 minuites, under no load, and not to let it idle, ajust timing and carb after the inital 30 min run time. as they put a 3/50 gaurantee on these as long as there put into a 1970-1985 GM vehicle, I'd try this method.
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by matt167
the break in instructions say to prime the engine

prime engine with oil with a drill & a rod down distributor hole to the oil pump B4 starting

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Old 08-15-2006, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
prime engine with oil with a drill & a rod down distributor hole to the oil pump B4 starting

if you happen to have an old distributor, take the gear off and pull apart the top (take off the rotor and advance mechanism) put that down the hole and hook up a drill and prime... if that is not possible summit sells a priming tool for like 20 bucks it works good. it is my experiance that you can not prime a chevy with a screwdriver or a rod because (from what i understand) before going to the top of the motot it passes through the dist. if the dist or priming tool is not there it will just dump back to the pan. make sure you are using a plenty powerful drill. it may also be a good idea to pack the pump and pickup with vaseline. it is petrolium based and will provide the pump with sucition to prime the motor.
that pump you suggested i think is a stock replacement pump. if it is, that would be perfect for the 4 quart pan.
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