[Mutt's37Buick]

I'm considering suspensions that are a little wider than my '37 Buick Roadmaster and interested in adding spacers to the joint between the fenders and the body. I don't need wider fenders, just need the front fenders shifted 2" out and the back shifted 3" out. Ideally the fenders would not be modified, just a spacer bolted in between. The spacer part could be painted to match the body. Has anyone ever done this, and how did you accomplish it. Pictures would be great if possible.

[daoldbuick]

Unless spacers are attached to either the fender or the body on the one side without a seam they will look like what they are. Spacers. Are you going without running boards? If not you will have to space those as well. How would that look and work. On my 36 Buick I have running boards with mats but I step over them to get in out. If the running boards stuck out 2-3 inches farther that would be very difficult. What about bumpers, they would have to be stretched as well. Suspension components are available to fit under original body, letting you keep the original body lines. Have you photo shopped your car to get an idea of what it would look like the mods your thinking of?

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks for the feedback. All good points. I had hoped to keep the running boards where they are. I've been evaluating all the front suspensions available and the 03-07 Crown Victoria seems to be real nice suspension that is easy to install on 34inch wide frame. I think my frame is only 26.25 wide (not counting the suspension pockets). With a little welding work I think it would possible bolt onto my Buick as well. Upside is cost and ease of installation. Downside is my car has front wheel track of 58.3 and the CV has a wheel track of 63.4 (with 50mm offset wheels). So I'm looking for a way to adjust the fenders out 2.5" on each side to make this work.
How much room do you have in between your tires and the inside of the front fenders?
I think spaced out fenders might look pretty cool and I will look for someone to photoshop it. Although it would not be a show car, it seems flat and curved spacers might look okay in between the body and the fender.
Thanks

[daoldbuick]

My Buick has 185/60r15 tires on it and there is 1.5" between inner fender lip and tire.
Sounds like you've been giving this some thought. One other caution I learned the hard way in my other hobby woodworking. sweat the details. More than once I've thought "I should be able to do or get this or that and then when I couldn't I had to make compromises I didn't like. Give some thought to rad support (my 36 had a crossmember that holds up the rad and front cowl and it had to be changed when I changed out the stock front end). Steering - if the wheelbase is different what about steering geometry issues.
Post some picks when your done. I'd like to see.

[shine]

your looking at the wrong suspension set up. it is way too wide . i would suggest you look at others cars and go a different route.

[Mutt's37Buick]

Hi DAOLDBuick,
Do you mind me asking what front suspension you have on your Buick.
Can you tell me what the front track is on your car?
Thanks

[35terraplane]

Originally Posted by shine

your looking at the wrong suspension set up. it is way too wide . i would suggest you look at others cars and go a different route.

Boy I agree with shine 100%. I had too wide a front crossmember in my 33 and I widen the fenders and running boards with a pie cut. But I was working with fiberglass, a steel car and I would have cut out the crossmember and got one that fit. JMO but I think what you want to do would look real bad.

Bob

[daoldbuick]

Originally Posted by Mutt's37Buick

Hi DAOLDBuick,
Do you mind me asking what front suspension you have on your Buick.
Can you tell me what the front track is on your car?
Thanks

I have a FatMan front end and it measures 4' 9" from center of tire to center of tire.
After I put it in, I was talking to a guy with a 36 Buick with different body style and he had rebuilt the original IFS. If I was to do it again I would look into that option more than I did this time. Not saying I would do it diff as I'm happy with the Fatman setup but it might be worth looking into. An IFS is an IFS and the original was designed for the car.

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks for the info

[Mutt's37Buick]

Hi Daoldbuick,
You mentioned keeping the original front IFS.
This was my first preference, but I want power steering, disk brakes, and ball joints. I considered the upgrade
"http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/1937-1957_Buick_Oldsmobile_Pontiac_suspension_upgrade"
but found parts scarce. I'm also not comfortable setting up the suspension myself and could not find a shop who would even consider it. Shops all recommended Mustang II, which I find expensive and even the manufacturers say my car is a bit heavy for this suspension.
I want a reliable driver that I can take across country.
1) Have you ever driven one of these cars with the original suspension and how did that compare to your current setup?
2) Have you ever know anyone who did the upgrade in the Wiki, and how was that to drive?
If anyone else can talk to these comparisons I would appreciate it.
Thanks

[timothale]

there is a lot of jag swap info on the HAMB. picts of a jag into a 56 or 57 buick. trucks etc, We have a 37 pontiac in the back corner of the shop, 2 jag xj6 setting on pallets mabe someday.

[Mutt's37Buick]

Here is a different approach that I'm considering. Won't handle as well as some options, but would allow me to utilize some of the existing independent suspension.

I ran across the following description written by a hotrodder named Rgreen on:
http://forums.aaca.org/f120/37-buick...-195177-2.html

Rgreen wrote:
"Re: 37 buick suspension upgrade
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, just in case anyone wants the final version. I did the upgrade, am willing to share more details but here is the quick and dirty. I used the stock Buick lower arms, welded in a plate to accept a 90 astro van ball joint. used the 90 astro van spindles, brakes, hoses, calipers and 12 inch vented rotors. Used a 90 full size van upper arm, used the same 90 upper bracket which the upper arm is bolted to. Unscrewed the buick tie rod end and then just screwed in the astro van tierod end fit perfect. Used the astro van power booster and proportioning valves. Since I used the stock steering box, tie rods, and lower arms there shoulb be no bump steer. If you want specific details as to how I set it up for caster and camber and antidive please feel free to contact me. This front end set-up was basically free since I paid 200 for the van, sold the trans for 100, sold the tires for another 100. And still have parts to sell. It took about 20 hours to make the change overs, including cleaning and painting it. I saved all the parts I removed and just in case someone wants to take it back to orginal all you would have to buy or find is stock lower arms.

Thanks for the interesting chatting, to begin with I was afraid of the tech aspects, but after hours of internet searching I feel very comfortable with this upgrade and it was easier than I expected."

1) I've been trying to contact Rgreen (Ray Green of Sacramento), but no luck so far. He was also an active member of Hotrodders.com in 2004. Have any of you ever communicated with him?
2) This sounds like a pretty straight forward change that allows minimal changes but adds ball joints and power disk brakes. What are your opinions?
I also want to explore using only components from the full size van just to simplify.
Thanks

[timothale]

I think the buick used the combo a arm-shocks. so new shock brackets upper and lower would be needed. the upper a arm bracket could be set up with antidive angles. more options than M II, more like it was done in the old days. adapt parts , and the salvage astro parts are a lot cheaper than a kit and big brake options.