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Old 09-11-2005, 06:34 PM
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Sparaying the door jambs

My plan is to spray the door jambs, inside edges of the fenders where hood goes then assamble the fenders and hood on the car then spray the rest of the car.
Ouestion is should I spray the clear allso on the small pieces where to metal meets each other, like header panel and fill panels on my 67 Camaro? Do I need clear on this little mounting surfaces to prevent the rust in the future?
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Old 09-11-2005, 08:06 PM
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Personally I would not do it that way. If the car is already apart the only way to paint it is all at once. That way you will not have dry paint to try and blend into at the door jambs. If you apply clear to the door jambs and at a later time come back and paint the rest of the car you will be able to tell where you sprayed first, as there will be a difference in layers of base and clear.

Vince
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:36 PM
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Vince is right, if you have your ride in pieces then paint the pieces completely before putting them back on the car.... First and foremost, what color are you painting.. What brand of paint are you using??

BK
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:47 AM
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I have a different take on it, assembling a 67 Camaro with all the parts painted is asking an awful lot. Unless you have a lot of experiance in doing this stuff, that is taking off a heck of a bite to chew.

You have a HUGE project anyway you look at it. I HIGHLY recommend you go to the "Body Exterior FAQ" page at the top of this forum and click on "Trial fitting parts". You REALLY need to read that. If you have all your parts fitting so well that you can just set the them on and put in a couple of bolts and they fit like a glove,then paint them apart. But I doubt you will find that on the 67 Camaro. I do this stuff everyday, every single day. I bolt on painted (and sometimes even buffed) fenders and doors. There are cars you can do it on, and there are cars I tell the paint dept to paint the jambs and I am going to bolt it together before the outside is painted. On a sixties Camaro, I wouldn't even think about it a minute, it would be painted together. Now, IF I was being paid to do an out and out show car, you bet your butt I would do it apart, but that is not usually the case. On your usually "nice driver" just paint it together.

Brian

Here is something I save to cut and paste for replys to this question.



Painting jambs
There is as many ways to paint jambs as there guys doing it. Unless it is an out and out show car I say paint the jams and then paint the outside. Many guys will say do it all at once with the panels off. The extra work and chance of damaging your new paint are so great, I say save that for the out and out show cars. If tape off the jambs well, you can barely tell the difference.
These are a few things I have learned that save a lot of work. First off, when you paint the jambs, apply both color and clear. DO NOT let the overspray go out onto the outside! This can cause HUGE problems along with the extra sanding that can be avoided. Unless completely removed, that overspray can ruin you work. The solvents from the paint on the exterior will get under the thin overspray and lift! What you want to do is be sure that the outside is TOTALLY done and READY to be final sanded and painted BEFORE you do the jambs. Now, tape off the outside along the jamb edge with at least 18" paper so you don't get that direct overspray out on the exterior. I tape the paper up to about 1/8" from the edge of the jamb. Then take your tape and "backtape" to the edge. This is when you lay the tape up to the edge on the outside so it is hanging over the edge, then gently fold it back, exposing the jamb but keeping the outside covered right up to the edge. This back taping will make a "softer" edge and be much easier to sand.
Go ahead and paint and clear the jamb, and remove that last tape that is back taped while the clear is still a little wet if you want (not necessary but you could choose to do that) the clear will then flow a little at the edge and leave you will even less of an edge to sand off.
Now when you paint the outside tape off the jambs up to about 1/8" or 3/16" from the edge so the seam won't be seen when the door is closed. Sand the exterior including that little edge left from the jamb paint and do the last little bit of jamb paint up to the new tape line with a gray scuff pad. I even will put that tape a little bit further away (about another 1/16") from the edge and after the scuffing with the gray scuff pad, apply a fine line (the blue plastic tape) tape over that last tape but hanging over the edge onto the new jamb paint that 1/16" bringing the line up to the original desired 1/8" to 3/16" from the edge. This will ensure that your jamb edge doesn't peel.

You could also use "aperture" foam tape that 3M makes. It is a rope made of foam with adhesive on it and is like "back taping" it leaves a "soft" edge.
I can go even more anal for you.
This may not work well in your jambs but if you can open the doors before clearing you could do it. I have found an even better way to all but eliminate that edge.
Tape off the edge as described with the extra line of fine line tape over the last 1/16" of new jamb paint (this works with when painting up to any paint actually, it doesn't need to be new paint you are painting up to). Then add ANOTHER strip of fine line the same way, over the next 1/16" or 3/32" getting up even closer to the jamb edge. Now, after you paint the color on the outside, you remove that last fine line added BEFORE you clear the exterior. Now, you will be burying the edge of the base coat under the clear! You don't have to do this by any means but it adds to that detail that is almost like you removed the doors to paint.
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:30 PM
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Martin Good info as always. I already read this before and my concern was the sheet metal parts (at the bottom that goes between the fender and front lover valance) meet each other would be prone to rust. so I will paint and clear them before Assembly. Because painting is out of question. That would be almost impossible to assemble it without damage. I got some new fenders and a door. Even they were original that would be very hard to fit them.
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:52 PM
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You need to trial fit those parts before you jamb them too.

Brian
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:19 PM
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Martin,
I'm sure you have a logic behind it but Why do I need a trial fit before spraying the jams?
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:22 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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If you plan on having ALL the primer and body work done BEFORE you jamb it as I recommend, the part has to be bolted on. I want ALL my primer work done before I pull the fender off for the last time to jamb. Besides, you don't know if that fender fits! I know that sounds ridiculas, but you don't. It could be completely out of shape at the rear where the center is out too far (very common). Or right at the back near the windshield post it could be bent down, again common on these fenders.

Did you read the "Trail fitting parts" Basics? Maybe it is opinion, maybe it is overkill to some guys. But I'll tell you this, when I put a car together there are no hassles. I just bolt it together.

Brian
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:32 PM
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Martin, You the Man.
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:50 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Hold on here, you have a new repro fender and door? Remember when I said "Besides, you don't know if that fender fits!"? Well, let me rephrase that. It they will NOT fit. If you find that these parts will fit reasonably well, I don't mean perfect just "reasonably well" without hogging out holes or "massaging", tweeking, or outright bending I will send you a dollar, email me with your address and a crisp new dollar bill will be in the mail.

Brian
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Old 09-12-2005, 10:20 PM
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Brian you big spender you

BK
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Old 09-12-2005, 10:52 PM
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Martin,
you might have to send that dollar to me because they were on the car before assembled and fitted. LOL
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