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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2005, 07:37 PM
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spark, gas and no fire

ok i have a 283 sbc in a 62 impala. I have a holley 600cfm carb, edelbrock preformer intake, and a junkyard hei single plug distributor from a 76 chevy. I took the old points dist out and put the motor back on tdc on the compression stroke. I put the hei dist in and hooked the hooked the wire that went from the starter to the postitive side of the coil to the battery input on the distributor cap. I made sure the rotor was under a terminal and used that terminal for #1. I got a good spark on the #1 plug and i hooked up the timing light and it was firing near tdc when the motor was turned over. The motor gets plenty gas (probably a little much) but wont start. It was running with the points distributor when i pulled it out. I would appreciate some help.

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Old 07-03-2005, 08:06 PM
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The older points ign system worked differently than you are wiring it for. Way back then (in my day!) the starter had a terminal that gave the points a full 12 volts when cranking, but when the key was returned to the "run" position, the voltage from that terminal went away and the ign switch took over and sent a lower running voltage. Big clue is it will fire the light or seem to try to start but as soon as you bring the key back, the fire goes away. Change the dist + wire so it goes to a full 12V source that is NOT coming from the starter. Find one on the fuse box or somewhere else that is hot with the key only.

Mark
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:07 PM
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just hook your dis power wire to a fuse that is hot when cranking and on pos and dead when key is off
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:10 PM
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You can't take the wire straight from the power terminal on the starter? Why is that, wouldn't there be constant power to it?
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:15 PM
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Thanks a lot I will do that.
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:41 PM
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Doc here,

Most likely what your experiencing is a massive current drop through the old ignition resistor..

HEI's need 12 volts or they won't run, (or run like Crap in a can) with the old coil resistor installed from the points type distributer, your seeing 6 to 9 volts at the coil.

If you haven't already removed it, backtrack the BATT wire until you come to a small metal box about 1 inch by 3 inches..2 wires in one (coil) out..Remove and abandon it.

Be sure your secondary Ignition is operational..as well as your primary. OR wire the BATT to an interruptible 12 volt switched source..

Secondary Ignition provides power to the coil during cranking cycles..from the "I" terminal on the solenoid. (When the rest of the vehicle goes dead in "Start")

That should get you running..just for test, you can run a jumper straight over to the battery from the "BATT" terminal..If all else is good, It will fire!

Doc

BTW: now that you have upgraded the HEI, you need to upgrade to a good set of spiral core 8.5 mm wires (to contain the higher spark) and get a new set of plugs, gap those between 45 and 40 whichever the engine seems to want best..
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Last edited by docvette; 07-03-2005 at 09:46 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:06 AM
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I hooked the BATT wire to a fuse that was getting 12v when on but when the engine would turn over the voltage would drop to aroung 9. It has a weak spark every now and then. I kind of understand the secondary ignition but i dont know where to run the wiring for it. I did not see a resistor but it still could be there but shouldnt I be bypassing it . Sorry for the trouble..
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:17 PM
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Check your battery for voltage drop first. After deciding it's okay, you need a wire with a constant twelve volts. Your weak fire comes from low voltage on the primary side. The "S" terminal(closest to the block) on the starter will have 12 volt's with the key in all positions except "off".
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:49 PM
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Did you do as Doc suggestedand make sure the ballast resistor was removed? I would junk that whole old wire, and run a new wire, heavier guage, from a source that is live during cranking and run position of the key. Could be you have a ballast "wire" or too much resistance in the original ("1962", lots of time for wire corrosion, work hardening leading to high resistance).
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Old 07-06-2005, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
The "S" terminal(closest to the block) on the starter will have 12 volt's with the key in all positions except "off".
I believe that the "S" terminal is the "start" terminal. It usually has the purple wire on it, the one that triggers the solonoid. The outside small terminal is the old 12V terminal that used to go to the resistor for full voltage cranking.

You need a good 12V source that is on when the key is on. Best place is to go directly to the fuse box and check with a test light and run a new lead to the "batt" plug on the dist.

Mark
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:43 PM
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Imho

A lot of hei`s won`t run on low voltage,make sure you have 12 v when cranking and running. you should be able to get 12 v from ign switch . Jerry
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:38 PM
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[QUOTE=docvette]Doc here,

Most likely what your experiencing is a massive current drop through the old ignition resistor..

HEI's need 12 volts or they won't run, (or run like Crap in a can) with the old coil resistor installed from the points type distributer, your seeing 6 to 9 volts at the coil.

If you haven't already removed it, backtrack the BATT wire until you come to a small metal box about 1 inch by 3 inches..2 wires in one (coil) out..Remove and abandon it.

Be sure your secondary Ignition is operational..as well as your primary. OR wire the BATT to an interruptible 12 volt switched source..

Secondary Ignition provides power to the coil during cranking cycles..from the "I" terminal on the solenoid. (When the rest of the vehicle goes dead in "Start")

That should get you running..just for test, you can run a jumper straight over to the battery from the "BATT" terminal..If all else is good, It will fire!





did u do this to see if ur hei even works
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:53 PM
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Ok everyone i got it running. I found the resistor and took it out and the distributor was 180 off (thanks to some buddies who cant figure out what a compression stoke is). It runs pretty good now. THere were also some really bad connections i found which was causing the voltage to drop even more. THanks everyone for the help.
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