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Old 08-12-2014, 09:34 AM
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specific issue with seam that has no room to grind at seam

so I'm making some 3d letters (49ers logo) on a bead roller and then making sides to the letter to make it 3d and give it depth. I tried 18 g but it was too hard to work with in terms of cutting and cleaning up, but would be ideal if I were to weld the seam. So I tried 24 gauge and it was really easy to trim. I then tacked it together here and there from the inside so it would be easier to clean up from the outside and also be set in place. My plan is to then file it down nice and then use non lead body solder at the seam and maybe a bead of panel adhesive on the back side to keep it stout. The body solder would make it easy to file off the edges of the letters, as grinding it off might be tricky with space and all. Any thoughts? I never did this before so I'm wondering if somebody has and has any tips. My concern is that once it's filed down there won't be much solder left on the seam, or enough tentacles to keep it secure on the metal. I dunno. Just wanting to kick around some ideas.

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Old 08-12-2014, 12:10 PM
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Post some photos of what you have done so we can get a better idea, not sure exactly what are are talking about.

Brian
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:05 AM
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it's just a "SF" face with separate pieces that are the side. There's no need for pictures. It's just a small space where you'd kill yourself if you had to grind down a weld. Of course I could use a special bit in my die grinder but that's not the real problem. The real problem is doing all this cutting, bending, shaping with 18 gauge, which is a great thickness to weld to. The 24 gauge is much more manageable to shape and get to the point of being ready to weld/ solder but not really a thickness you'd want to butt weld and then grind with one of those cone bits. Not an ideal situation and I have some leadless body solder laying around
that could be shaped and cover the seam quite easily but with the bead roller and nice cuts on the 24 gauge the face of the SF logo mates so well with the side pieces once you file it off there won't be much solder left. So I'm wondering if it will even be worth it. If you could imagine a door skin when it first separates when you know you got a little more to go, that's what the gap would look like after filing and preparing it for body solder. I'm concerned there won't be hardly any left after re-filing. I guess I'm overthinking it and should just do it.
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:19 AM
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here's a pic of the practice piece. If I solder or weld I will give it a go on this piece first. First I plan to tack it around like this and then grind file it down and then use the body solder.

Keep in mind this was tacked with %100 argon cause when I got my tig they straight swapped my mig tank for the tig tank but I plan to get a mig tank when I do this, and probably a little more depth
on the embossed face. Can barely see it's embossed in the pic so I will crank down on the bead roller next time by 1/4-1/2 turn more.

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Old 08-13-2014, 07:46 AM
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turn it upside down and flow your solder in from the back side.. this will leave a small fin of solder extruded to the front that can be filed off..

Sam
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:53 AM
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you know, I'm glad you said that. I was thinking about doing that. I wasn't sure whether or not there would be any separation when filing it down but it makes sense and will make it much less of a head ache to where I would only be really having to worry about the tacks, which wouldn't be much to worry about with the right gas. Thanks for slapping me back to reality.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:41 AM
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A photo helped a LOT sometimes one can't "see" what someone else is saying, I really didn't understand at all what you were saying.

Sounds like a good solution to melt the solder on the back side allowing it to come out the gaps. But I don't believe I would do anything other than simply gas welding that seam. It would leave almost zero left to grind or file.

Brian
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:44 AM
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I have thought about a tig but got some reality so I am off to the welding shop in search of some 0 or 00 size gas welding tips.. Hopefully I do not need another torch handle..

Sam
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:25 PM
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I love my jewelers torch, I call it a "Poor man's TIG".

Torch For 6GJG4 by MILLER-SMITH EQUIPMENT - Torch and Torch Kits at Zoro



With the beautiful fit Henry has on that project you could make darn near a grinderless finish.

Brian
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Old 08-13-2014, 01:48 PM
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I found this one.. Best thing it is a Smith and I can get one at my local welders supply..

Smith Little Torch Jeweler's Torch Outfit 23-1001D

Sam
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:13 PM
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That is actually I believe the same one I have.

Brian
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:28 PM
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I'd use a tig torch and some flux coated nickel brazing rod and run a fillet around the back side. The fillet will remain even it you get the exterior weld area ground down to far.
Simple fast and cheap
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:33 AM
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I wouldn't even bother continuing this project, the Seahawks are gonna roll over the Niner's this year, too!!

Sorry, just couldn't make my fingers get off the keyboard.............
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