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specific issue with seam that has no room to grind at seam

2K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  Old Fool 
#1 ·
so I'm making some 3d letters (49ers logo) on a bead roller and then making sides to the letter to make it 3d and give it depth. I tried 18 g but it was too hard to work with in terms of cutting and cleaning up, but would be ideal if I were to weld the seam. So I tried 24 gauge and it was really easy to trim. I then tacked it together here and there from the inside so it would be easier to clean up from the outside and also be set in place. My plan is to then file it down nice and then use non lead body solder at the seam and maybe a bead of panel adhesive on the back side to keep it stout. The body solder would make it easy to file off the edges of the letters, as grinding it off might be tricky with space and all. Any thoughts? I never did this before so I'm wondering if somebody has and has any tips. My concern is that once it's filed down there won't be much solder left on the seam, or enough tentacles to keep it secure on the metal. I dunno. Just wanting to kick around some ideas.
 
#3 ·
it's just a "SF" face with separate pieces that are the side. There's no need for pictures. It's just a small space where you'd kill yourself if you had to grind down a weld. Of course I could use a special bit in my die grinder but that's not the real problem. The real problem is doing all this cutting, bending, shaping with 18 gauge, which is a great thickness to weld to. The 24 gauge is much more manageable to shape and get to the point of being ready to weld/ solder but not really a thickness you'd want to butt weld and then grind with one of those cone bits. Not an ideal situation and I have some leadless body solder laying around
that could be shaped and cover the seam quite easily but with the bead roller and nice cuts on the 24 gauge the face of the SF logo mates so well with the side pieces once you file it off there won't be much solder left. So I'm wondering if it will even be worth it. If you could imagine a door skin when it first separates when you know you got a little more to go, that's what the gap would look like after filing and preparing it for body solder. I'm concerned there won't be hardly any left after re-filing. I guess I'm overthinking it and should just do it.
 
#4 ·
here's a pic of the practice piece. If I solder or weld I will give it a go on this piece first. First I plan to tack it around like this and then grind file it down and then use the body solder.

Keep in mind this was tacked with %100 argon cause when I got my tig they straight swapped my mig tank for the tig tank but I plan to get a mig tank when I do this, and probably a little more depth
on the embossed face. Can barely see it's embossed in the pic so I will crank down on the bead roller next time by 1/4-1/2 turn more.

Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper
 
#6 ·
you know, I'm glad you said that. I was thinking about doing that. I wasn't sure whether or not there would be any separation when filing it down but it makes sense and will make it much less of a head ache to where I would only be really having to worry about the tacks, which wouldn't be much to worry about with the right gas. Thanks for slapping me back to reality. :D
 
#7 ·
A photo helped a LOT sometimes one can't "see" what someone else is saying, I really didn't understand at all what you were saying.

Sounds like a good solution to melt the solder on the back side allowing it to come out the gaps. But I don't believe I would do anything other than simply gas welding that seam. It would leave almost zero left to grind or file.

Brian
 
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