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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
I'd like to see the rule book on this.. is it all cars or tube frame/cert. cars
Yep you can buy bolt in tanks that fit most popular race cars. Rule book says fuel tank and engine must have firewall for most classes. Does not say they cant be the same firewall. Trunk mounted tanks are pretty dangerous. Usaly end up in with the battery and thats all bad.

Under the car is pretty safe but if it breaks in tje back and the front is on fire. You will be involed in that fire. If the front of the car is a blaze you can get out and run without crawling over a pool of burning gas. If your moving then its only a small amount of fuel and it will not cover a large area with a hot fire.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 10:29 AM
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Here is a tank that is designed for under hood mount. They make a bunch of these small shaped tanks that will fit most cars. They are pretty safe. A factory car is pretty safe for under hood fires. They spend a lot of money making sure the fire does to move to the passanger compartment quickly.

RCI 2010D RCI Drag Race and Pro Street Fuel Cells

Rod length is smoke and mirrors dyno results are minimal. For the cost 5.7 are much better option for chevy. If you had the cash you could get H beam 5.7 rods for about the same price as 6 inch I beam rods.

Sure max effort 20k motor you get the long rods. But for regular motor use the 5.7 and pocket the bucks. You will need then later. Better yet use then to buy a nice fire suit and make everyone happy!
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:34 PM
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Well it's like a cliff being sold because everyone else jumps off it,refills under the hood tanks by hot headers needs to be with full fire suits only or else it's a adventure.I demand anyone advising their use posts they will go to the burn unit to visit anyone anywhere if something goes wrong.

Howards stop building 5.7 cranks where you could buy the crank by it's self mainly because the 5.7 rod creates too much rocking of the piston's thrust side and that creates excessive wear.I got the very last one is why I know.I bought it as a trade off because I don't like ring spacers that 6" rods need for the street.What all of us do is build things into a engine build that adds alittle bit and all those things adds up to a final output.The topic of long rods goes back to the days of Henry"Smokey"Yunick saying "you put in the longest damm rod you can find",followed by John Lingenfelter at LPE gradually over the yrs increase the rods they use in their engines,to GM Chevy it's self increasing the rod length in it's production engines.It is well documented the positive effect a 6" rod and greater than that has.It is also follow through by the aftermarket blocks being offered.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:47 PM
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But to establish a rock solid ref from this point moving forward,I believe with at 65 yrs old of a lifetime in a study in performance engines the 6" rods do have a positive effect.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:28 PM
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But to establish a rock solid ref from this point moving forward,I believe with at 65 yrs old of a lifetime in a study in performance engines the 6" rods do have a positive effect.
Try it for your self. Build a 383 with 5.7 rods then dyno then replace pistons and rods with 6" rods and pistons that give the same compresion in proper size for 6 inch rods.

Rods cost more and are weaker! Leverage is a fact i agree with that part.

Pistons cost more and have a less favorable pin location.

In the end your dyno results will equal about 6 hp on 400 hp engine. Total cost of about 1500 bucks over standard build. With balancing, block mods and small base circle cam along with the rods and pistons that cost almost twice the price.

Smoke and mirrors! Unless you making 800 hp it does not make a difference that offsets the cost.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:37 PM
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Under hood tanks go in the front in same location as battery or coolant tank. Not really an issue to refill. Normaly you just use a small one gallon can and fill it on the ground from the pump or your own five gallon larger can. Common sense easily remove any risk. Also always use a large funnel to catch any over spray. Also most fuels will not burn when splashed on headers. By most i mean none. I mean dont try it but the flash point is higher than that. Especailly higher octane gas.

Flash point of 87 octane is 532 degrees if your headers are over 500 degrees with the engine tunred off your engine is cooking itself. Turbo headers cool to under 500 in about a minute from glowing red hot.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:32 PM
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Under hood tanks go in the front in same location as battery or coolant tank. Not really an issue to refill. Normaly you just use a small one gallon can and fill it on the ground from the pump or your own five gallon larger can. Common sense easily remove any risk. Also always use a large funnel to catch any over spray. Also most fuels will not burn when splashed on headers. By most i mean none. I mean dont try it but the flash point is higher than that. Especailly higher octane gas.

Flash point of 87 octane is 532 degrees if your headers are over 500 degrees with the engine tunred off your engine is cooking itself. Turbo headers cool to under 500 in about a minute from glowing red hot.
Stop dancing around the commitment.Say it.Say you will go to the burn unit anywhere at anytime of anyone who gets burned by this advise.Add in to it you will pay the bills for it too.Just say it.........................
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:07 AM
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For the record.Race gas's flash point is lower than pump gas.I am very sure about that being a dangerous goods specialist register in Washington,DC.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:11 AM
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For the record.Race gas's flash point is lower than pump gas.I am very sure about that being a dangerous goods specialist register in Washington,DC.
You have no clue what higher octane means do you? 80 octane desiel has a lower flash point than gasoline. Race fuel has a higher flash point.

A fire under the hood is safer than one under the car or good forbid in the trunk. Many ppl have had fires under the hood and not gotten hurt at all. That can not be said for a gas tank fire.

Dangerous good specialist? In wash DC? Why would someone be certified in dc only. That is totally useless since dc is all office building and everything is oitside of the dc you willl need to cross state lines if moving hazmat around dc.

But if you really are certified then why is it so strange to think about keeping all volitle compunds in one secure location. That has fire resistence and a rated firewall in between the driver and dangerous area.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 02:24 PM
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That cert covers nation wide,not just in DC.

Still doing the dance avoiding the commitment I challenged you to make......

A lower flash point catches fire sooner/faster.If that wasn't the case,there would be no point in running 110 race gas.A higher flash point requires more heat like the case for kerosene.Diesel fuel has a higher flash point and what makes that work is in diesel engines the extreme high compression.So you have the flash points backwards.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 02:43 PM
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That cert covers nation wide,not just in DC.

Still doing the dance avoiding the commitment I challenged you to make......

A lower flash point catches fire sooner/faster.If that wasn't the case,there would be no point in running 110 race gas.A higher flash point requires more heat like the case for kerosene.Diesel fuel has a higher flash point and what makes that work is in diesel engines the extreme high compression.So you have the flash points backwards.
Octane is the resistence to burn. By diffenition.

Diesel has lower octane than gasoline. It also has a lower ignition temp. Higher octane has a higher ignition temp. Diesel can ignite at 410 degrees gas is over 500 before it will catch fire.

Just like i said. Higher octane gas will have a higher ignition temp.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:34 PM
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Still doing the dance avoiding the commitment I challenged you to make......
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2012, 12:13 PM
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Still doing the dance avoiding the commitment I challenged you to make......

OK fine i will go and visit anyone in the burn unit. Since i been there myself i got a few things to say about your comments But i will ignore that for now. But you have to promise to build an engine with 5.7 rods then dyno change nothing but the rods and dyno again. OK are we golden now. Cause i would actually go and visit a friend not sure your going to listen to reason that will take more common sense than you actually have.

Cant wait for you to find out 6 inch rods give nothing but lighter wallets. Interent crap is no good I want real dyno results like i did myself years ago when clowns like you started to say it was worth the effort.

FYI We know you do not know about dangerous fuels at all since you did not even realize deisel burns at a lower temp than gas.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:31 PM
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[QUOTE=hcompton;1618056]Under hood tanks go in the front in same location as battery or coolant tank.

That's where things get questionable. The rule say's... "Tank must be mounted within the frame".

If it was mounted in the battery location that would "not be within the frame" and if the car took a hit in the front the fuel tank would be in for a good hit.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:46 PM
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Smokey Yunick,LPE,Howards,all aftermarket blocks,GM it's self all disagree with you on the long rod question.

I still,even through I have gotten older,have the ability to listen and learn.Some guys get hard of hearing and are tough to teach.Oh well.....................maybe there is something for them still living "back in the day".
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