[gearheadslife]

looked over their site..
saw primers/sealers and clears, and 3 basic color(base coats)

what are you guys using for a mixed base?



as we know some "systems" don't play nice together..

[OneMoreTime]

Prospray, DBU, Sikkens, PPG, Omni,HOK

Sam

[69 widetrack]

Originally Posted by gearheadslife

looked over their site..
saw primers/sealers and clears, and 3 basic color(base coats)

what are you guys using for a mixed base?



as we know some "systems" don't play nice together..

For my next 2 jobs, it will be SPI through out, the job after that will not be SPI through out...SPI doesn't have the colors...Yes sometimes different systems don't play nice together.....This is usually the case if you use a different manufacturer's catalyst or even reducer than the original manufacturer suggested. If you use SPI Primer, prep it properly, use Dupont base (mixed properly and allow proper flash times) and PPG clear (mixed properly with proper flash times between coats) there shouldn't be a problem related to using different branded products....If there was a problem doing this...we should all use exactly what Ford, Dodge, GM or whatever was originally put on for paint from the factory to do a repair or a blend after a vehicle has been involved in a collision...and I don't believe that there is one body shop that does...I've sold PPG, Dupont and Nexa to GM dealerships, Ford dealerships, etc...they all seem to work and play nice when they are used properly.

Ray

[deadbodyman]

That old myth all started when the catilyzed primers and paints started coming out years ago ..when spraying a 2k over a lacquer you'll almost always have trouble later on....now days everything is 2k so theres not to much trouble unless you use one brand of hardener with another brand of paint or primer...

[bsa_bob]

Over on the streetrodding forum, those guys are really pushing the SPI primer that is made in georgia. I am not big on materials, that aren't all the same. I didn't ask but the fellas over there talked ...just... about primer with me.This is a one man company. and hes down there, and i'm up here, should i suddenly have poroblems. i Guess i got used to the old ppg K200 yellow . What do you use and should i adapt to this new primer SPI thanks bob s

[69 widetrack]

Just so you know, SPI isn't a one man company....BarryK from SPI does have distributors throughout North America as well as a support team of distribution, technical people and chemists. I've recently tried the product and it does what everybody says it does.

Ray

[bsa_bob]

Thats what i wanted to hear! thank you twice bob

[deadbodyman]

Personally I've never had an actual problem but I do call the hot line for advice before I do something ...The other day I called because I had to prep a 2012 Nisson bumper cover that came un primed I not only got the proper proceedure but I got a short history on all the problems with Nisson and totota covers...I always get Barry himself on the phone ,The man is a walking tech book and knows more about paint and materials than anyone I've ever met ...I feel smarter every time we talk because I am....I've been in this biz for over 35 yrs and it amazes me how much I dont know.....

[mitmaks]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

Personally I've never had an actual problem but I do call the hot line for advice before I do something ...The other day I called because I had to prep a 2012 Nisson bumper cover that came un primed I not only got the proper proceedure but I got a short history on all the problems with Nisson and totota covers...I always get Barry himself on the phone ,The man is a walking tech book and knows more about paint and materials than anyone I've ever met ...I feel smarter every time we talk because I am....I've been in this biz for over 35 yrs and it amazes me how much I dont know.....

What is the problem with these covers? I would think 1 coat of SPI epoxy and it would be pretty much ready for paint.

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by 69 widetrack

For my next 2 jobs, it will be SPI through out, the job after that will not be SPI through out...SPI doesn't have the colors...Yes sometimes different systems don't play nice together.....This is usually the case if you use a different manufacturer's catalyst or even reducer than the original manufacturer suggested. If you use SPI Primer, prep it properly, use Dupont base (mixed properly and allow proper flash times) and PPG clear (mixed properly with proper flash times between coats) there shouldn't be a problem related to using different branded products....If there was a problem doing this...we should all use exactly what Ford, Dodge, GM or whatever was originally put on for paint from the factory to do a repair or a blend after a vehicle has been involved in a collision...and I don't believe that there is one body shop that does...I've sold PPG, Dupont and Nexa to GM dealerships, Ford dealerships, etc...they all seem to work and play nice when they are used properly.

Ray

Why not use SPI clear? Why Dupont and not PPG or ProSpray or?

To the OP, call Barry @ 404-307-9740 and get the real faqs on what base coat will work with his products.

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by mitmaks

What is the problem with these covers? I would think 1 coat of SPI epoxy and it would be pretty much ready for paint.

Well in the past when I recieved a raw cover we would have to use a mould release agent to start with. I didnt have any so I was really calling to see if there was anything else I could use, I remember the stuff smelt like vinegar...
anyways its a good thing I called because the regulay W&G remover I was going to use would have caused problems ,I needed a water born W&G ...then a gritty compound like blend prepcalled scuff stuff from presto and scuffed with a gray pad and soapy water .I would have used a red one and that would have made scratches too deep ,any sanding would have fuzzed up the whole thing and caused real trouble...Then two coats of epoxy reduced 10 - 40% (I like 10 %) but 40% woks pretty good on wet on wet production apps that need to dry quick... Worked like a champ ,with no adheasion probs......matching the paint was a whole different story,It's called brite silver and I could blend it into the 1/4's,I started off with Omini plus and it was just a tad dark so I tried some more fine aluminun and jut couldnt get the color light enough so I went back to the store and got the global base found the proper variable through the color cards ,went back and painted it again and it looked great ....until I put it on and it was just as far off as the omini plus was...so off to the dupont store I went for the chroma base which ended up also being better , still a bit dark but we couldnt get it any lighter ...so out the door it went...All the colors were blendable and would have worked well if blended but when your told paint the cover only ,you paint the cover only because the disscustomer is always right and knows whats best...funny thing is from the back it looks dead on to the deck, its only from the sides it looks off...A frustrating week but it would have been much ,much worse if I hadnt called Barry first....

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

Well in the past when I recieved a raw cover we would have to use a mould release agent to start with. I didnt have any so I was really calling to see if there was anything else I could use, I remember the stuff smelt like vinegar...
anyways its a good thing I called because the regulay W&G remover I was going to use would have caused problems ,I needed a water born W&G ...then a gritty compound like blend prepcalled scuff stuff from presto and scuffed with a gray pad and soapy water .I would have used a red one and that would have made scratches too deep ,any sanding would have fuzzed up the whole thing and caused real trouble...Then two coats of epoxy reduced 10 - 40% (I like 10 %) but 40% woks pretty good on wet on wet production apps that need to dry quick... Worked like a champ ,with no adheasion probs......matching the paint was a whole different story,It's called brite silver and I could blend it into the 1/4's,I started off with Omini plus and it was just a tad dark so I tried some more fine aluminun and jut couldnt get the color light enough so I went back to the store and got the global base found the proper variable through the color cards ,went back and painted it again and it looked great ....until I put it on and it was just as far off as the omini plus was...so off to the dupont store I went for the chroma base which ended up also being better , still a bit dark but we couldnt get it any lighter ...so out the door it went...All the colors were blendable and would have worked well if blended but when your told paint the cover only ,you paint the cover only because the disscustomer is always right and knows whats best...funny thing is from the back it looks dead on to the deck, its only from the sides it looks off...A frustrating week but it would have been much ,much worse if I hadnt called Barry first....

Another tip I was told by a local PPG rep for bumper covers that are NOT factory primed. Let them set in the full sun for at least a day, 2 is better OR bake at 140. Then follow the same routine as DBM just said .

Mitmak, Tom M. at Professional Finishes is a great local asset, ever talk with him?

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by Old Fool

Another tip I was told by a local PPG rep for bumper covers that are NOT factory primed. Let them set in the full sun for at least a day, 2 is better OR bake at 140. Then follow the same routine as DBM just said .

Mitmak, Tom M. at Professional Finishes is a great local asset, ever talk with him?

The name sounds familar is he a member here?

[carolinacustoms]

Originally Posted by bsa_bob

Over on the streetrodding forum, those guys are really pushing the SPI primer that is made in georgia. I am not big on materials, that aren't all the same. I didn't ask but the fellas over there talked ...just... about primer with me.This is a one man company. and hes down there, and i'm up here, should i suddenly have poroblems. i Guess i got used to the old ppg K200 yellow . What do you use and should i adapt to this new primer SPI thanks bob s

If you try the SPI products, you will NOT be disappointed in any way. At one time or another we have used just about everything on the market from the cheapest to the highest and SPI primers and clear are by far superior in every way. And like has been stated already Barry is just a phone call away 24/7.

Kelly

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

The name sounds familar is he a member here?

Years ago Tom was PPG rep, now he manages a paint store here . I don't know if he is on here or not.