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Old 11-20-2010, 12:54 PM
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SPI clear

Which SPI clear is the best? I'm painting whole car (my 68 Charger)
I'm planning on using either PPG DBU or DBC base. This will not be baked (air dry) I don't care about fast dry speed, I'm not a production shop.

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Old 11-20-2010, 01:52 PM
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universal clear. 3 coats and block then 3 more .
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:05 PM
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could I just put 4 on and then wet sand/buff?
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:38 AM
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I like the universal also...
Its up to you how you want to do it,for regular cars 2 coats is plenty then sand and buff if needed but sanding and reclearing is the way to go for a super nice job, I guess it all depends on how straight the bodywork is...doing a super nice paint job on a wavey body is a waste of time...but well worth the extra effort on super straight body....
Start with three coats ,see how it looks and go from there...
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:03 AM
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let me know how the repairs go after you burn it.
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:56 AM
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If it looks nice and straight after three coats go ahead and sand and reclear ...If it dosent ,let it fly...Three coats is plenty...two coats is the norm at most body shops....on normal ,every day cars....Without knowing how nice the bodywork is and how it was done...theres no one,good answer...theres a lot of variables ...hopefully with THAT car its all been done to perfection and sanding and reclearing wont be a waste of time ,it'll be the way to go.That old saying "you cant shine sheet" is not really true with paint but all you'll end up with after all that work is a shinier turd ...I really dont know how any pro could burn SPI it buffs so easy, which makes it great for production work too...I've never burned it nor has any of my painters,even with the normal two coats.As a matter of fact when they try it for the first time they always comment on how easy it is to sand and buff....I do all kinds of work at my shop from lot cars to show cars and SPI clear is all I use...great stuff and a perfect name "universal"...
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:26 AM
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drchips found out the hard way just like most diy painters. 3 or 4 coats of orange peel shot with a cheap gun is not enough to go cutting and buffing. that might just equal 2 good coats shot with a good gun by an experienced painter. 6 coats of uv is not extreme. if you shoot 3 wet coats and then hit it with 600 then reclear you will have a better job. in the years i've been here i have seen one after another take the easy way out and end up buying more materials and repairing them. your car do it your way.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:32 AM
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I do pretty much all of my jobs with 4-5 coats of clear, sanded and buffed starting with 800 and have never really burned or sanded through. Actually been been a while since i've had any burn throughs, mainly a small edge if it happens. I belive spi universal, according to barry, is about the same solids as the sikkens hs+ clear that i use. That being said, dont really know how experienced you are with cutting and buffing, or spraying for that matter. Cutting edge to edge starting with 800 scares the daylights outta some people... If i were you i'd do it the way shine suggests and do 3 and 3. then cut and buff, if needed. Just be careful on your edges on that first cut with 600. Keep wiping the panels clean and inspect often.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:43 AM
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agreed ,six coats is not to much when sanded after three and it looks so much better.
three coats also looks good (not as good) if you have some experiance and can use a buffer
Maybe it would be best to just use the whole two gallons of sprayable clear and do the best you can ...you may only get three coats maybe four on a big car like that but if the body looks great and you can afford the extra gallon of clear you really should sand and reshoot you'll get a much better job.
When you said "this isnt a production shop" I assumed you have painted a few...Right? and done some buffing???? paint booth?????good filters ???theres so many variables.
IMO ,THAT car deserves the best you can give it ...I cant think of a better way to spend 200.00 than getting an extra gallon (two sprayable) of clear...Thats what I would do if I did the whole car from bare metal also...but its undrstood that money's tight ,and to tell you the truth it'll even look good with a solid color SS paint (not as good) but pretty darn good.just do the best you can with what you got....thats a good lookin car already...I've been trying to find my buddy a good GTX project to restore for two years they're hard to find..
BTW,if your on a budget and have a little cut and buff experience and want a solid color,you can get one HELLOFA nice job out of SS,same way ,three coats, sand ,three more coats,cut and buff...and save 4-500.00 not buying clear...
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
drchips found out the hard way just like most diy painters. 3 or 4 coats of orange peel shot with a cheap gun is not enough to go cutting and buffing. that might just equal 2 good coats shot with a good gun by an experienced painter. 6 coats of uv is not extreme. if you shoot 3 wet coats and then hit it with 600 then reclear you will have a better job. in the years i've been here i have seen one after another take the easy way out and end up buying more materials and repairing them. your car do it your way.
I know how to paint. I have plenty of experience, I'm full-time painter. If it's high solids clear I should be able to 1500-2500-3000 whole car and buff it out without no problems.
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:21 PM
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If you are fine with not knowing how to take it to the next level, go ahead and reject the excellent advice being given to you. The technique you describe is about as good as the average body shop ever does.

Have fun being average.
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:58 PM
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If I were average would I be painting a 1,000,000 dollar machine. I said it right one million dollar. Average machines I paint every day are $30-150,000 machines
Pro painters have done their cars without putting on 6 coats of clear.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=os4yadO7qYk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgSVR...eature=related
My car won't be sitting in car show for someone to drool over it. I will be driving it and enjoying it.
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
drchips found out the hard way just like most diy painters. 3 or 4 coats of orange peel shot with a cheap gun is not enough to go cutting and buffing. that might just equal 2 good coats shot with a good gun by an experienced painter. 6 coats of uv is not extreme. if you shoot 3 wet coats and then hit it with 600 then reclear you will have a better job. in the years i've been here i have seen one after another take the easy way out and end up buying more materials and repairing them. your car do it your way.
with all the due respect why are you assuming this stuff? I use sata's, Iwatas, Accuspray equipment, no cheap crap here. I also shoot with minimal orange peel. So when you post comment like that I kinda take offense but I'll just ignore it. I'm sure you do quality work and way you do thing work for you, great!
Every bodyman/painter has way he does things so pushing your way onto someone else is incorrect.
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:20 PM
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Just posting a reply to the norm of spraying 3 coats, then wet sand 600 grit, then re-shoot 3 more coats and then wet sand and buff. I have always shot 5-6 coats right from the start, regardless of what brand (everyone has their own preference) then wet sand and buff from there. Seems to me a lot of extra work with no benefit in the end result....................
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitmaks
If I were average would I be painting a 1,000,000 dollar machine. I said it right one million dollar. Average machines I paint every day are $30-150,000 machines
Pro painters have done their cars without putting on 6 coats of clear.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=os4yadO7qYk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgSVR...eature=related
My car won't be sitting in car show for someone to drool over it. I will be driving it and enjoying it.
I apologize for underestimating you. From now on I will look to you for advice.
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