SPI clears and primers question..

BarryK · #16 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 12:30 PM

1"x3" should be what you got?

Thats the lastest hair brain Idea.
The hardest thing you will ever do is spray Photo paper!!

old40ford · #17 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 12:35 PM

Barry, does your clear work well over all manufacturers? No adhesion problems or other interactions? I've spent most of my adult life painting cars and have had the phrase "stay within the same product line" beat into my head. I have never had any problems mixing substrates, but, I've been a little gun shy of mixing top coats. By the way, I've used a ton of your epoxy and have even order some for friends, it's great.
thanks,
John

baddbob · #18 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bee4Me

Interestring point as I have a Iwata LPH 400 with a 1.3 tip.
But, The way this gun lay's material with a 1.3 I'm not so sure it's a problem.

Mike, I think you're probably right. I'll be spraying some of Barry's Universal Clear down the road and plan to use the 1.3 in the LPH as it puts out more than some of the 1.4 guns I've used. Now with a SATA I bet there's definately a chance for problems with the 1.3. Bob

BondoKing · #19 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 01:58 PM

I think it is more of a general rule for the Majority... If he said 1.3 and then people were shooting this clear with a sharpe 1.3 ( cant be done, I tried it once!!!) then he would have huge problems.... Then Barry would be all day putting out fires with jobbers and individuals with spray problems... Bob, Mike, you guys know your guns well... I am sure you will not have any problems with the Iwata's... I shoot his HS clear through my mini gun, reduced slightly, but you 2 get my point

Matthew

rusty428cj · #20 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 05:52 PM

I use RM Diamont base coat wait over night and spray SPI HS3000 next day and never had a problem.

Bee4Me · #21 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 08:49 PM

Bob may have to be the test mule here as I don't have anything really to shoot comming up except some of my airbrush panels. Getting cold down here and I cut WAY back on work in the winter. Unless fuel cost's drop for some unknown reason this winter. Yeah, RIGHT!.I'll probly be repainting the Malibu at some time this winter and will be using SPI on it for sure.
I was looking over his line's today and will be getting a couple of qt's of the Universial soon though just to check out. I too shoot some with my touch up and was concerned about that also. I really hate reducing clear for the simple fact of loosing mill's and more coats but from what I gather from you BK,It's not a big issue with solvent poping on multiple coats. Mike.

mrcleanr6 · #22 (**permalink**) 11-08-2005, 09:04 PM

universal clear.....multiple coats you say.....well i normally shoot 3. if i'm trying to burry graphics then 4. if the graphics are really thick and its a must then on a very rare occasion 5 but there have been a couple times just for the hell of it i shot somewhere around 9. used slow activator and plenty of flash time with no ill effects, pop or anything. looked great!!! again this is not any kind of normal procedure but just to show how forgiving the stuff is.

chadsbodyshop49119 · #23 (**permalink**) 11-09-2005, 07:49 PM

Well I hope I get my hands on the clear by next week, I've got one I would love to spray with this clear... and I also got a Iwata with a 1.4 to try the clear with. "demo" we I'm just gonna be brave and experiment with the gun and the clear at the same time..
Now just out of curiosity, you guys with Iwata's, if you were going to buy a Iwata, and you were planning on using the universal clear, what tip would you want to have... I know some say you have the 1.3, and some say you should have the 1.4.. so what one should i be looking to buy????

chadsbodyshop49119 · #24 (**permalink**) 11-09-2005, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrcleanr6

universal clear.....multiple coats you say.....well i normally shoot 3. if i'm trying to burry graphics then 4. if the graphics are really thick and its a must then on a very rare occasion 5 but there have been a couple times just for the hell of it i shot somewhere around 9. used slow activator and plenty of flash time with no ill effects, pop or anything. looked great!!! again this is not any kind of normal procedure but just to show how forgiving the stuff is.

Ok, now this brings to mind another question, you say you use 3 coats. now with the universal clear being of such high solids, wouldn't 2 coats of this clear be equivilant to 3 coats of most other clears.. I'm just wondering if I can just get away with 2 coats on my normal collision work and step up to 3 on my nicer paint jobs and maybe 4 or so with graphics?

baddbob · #25 (**permalink**) 11-09-2005, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chadsbodyshop49119

Well I hope I get my hands on the clear by next week, I've got one I would love to spray with this clear... and I also got a Iwata with a 1.4 to try the clear with. "demo" we I'm just gonna be brave and experiment with the gun and the clear at the same time..
Now just out of curiosity, you guys with Iwata's, if you were going to buy a Iwata, and you were planning on using the universal clear, what tip would you want to have... I know some say you have the 1.3, and some say you should have the 1.4.. so what one should i be looking to buy????

You're going to test some clear and a new gun at the same time... So shoot a few test panels first to get a handle on things otherwise you won't know which to blame if things go downhill!

I've been spraying D893 and D894 and also a few other clears with the 1.3 and it works great IMO. The LPH-400 seems to put out as much or more material with a 1.3 than most other guns that have a 1.4 IMO. The fluid tips cost about $50 and don't require changing the needle so that isn't bad. The last tip and needle I had to buy for my SATA ran about $130 if I remember right. I haven't sprayed Barry's Universal clear yet but I'd bet the 1.3 will work well. I've shot some pretty thick stuff with the 1.3 like Sikken's Autocryl Rally Black-it's like tar compared to other urethane singlestages.

mrcleanr6 · #26 (**permalink**) 11-09-2005, 09:04 PM

every drop of the universal i spray goes through an iwata lph400 with a 1.4 tip. anything 1.3 is just too slow for me. if your spraying anything high solids i would get a 1.4 or 1.5.

adtkart · #27 (**permalink**) 11-10-2005, 03:50 AM

Chad
I recently did a couple of test panels using a Dupont Clear and SPI Universal Clear. The panels were shot using one of the Purple Harbor Freight guns. I shot 2 coats of each clear on the panels. You can see a noticeable difference in the thickness of the SPI after they have completely dried. The appearance of the color and gloss are the same, but at the edges, where the tape was, they are obviously different.

I also recently repaired and painted the left side of my daughter's 02 Mustang. I used 2 coats of the Universal clear on it. It matched perfectly that way. I would hate to see what would have happened if I had put 3 coats on. I really don't like the thought of having to reclear the whole car.

Aaron

chadsbodyshop49119 · #28 (**permalink**) 11-10-2005, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baddbob

You're going to test some clear and a new gun at the same time... So shoot a few test panels first to get a handle on things otherwise you won't know which to blame if things go downhill!

I've been spraying D893 and D894 and also a few other clears with the 1.3 and it works great IMO. The LPH-400 seems to put out as much or more material with a 1.3 than most other guns that have a 1.4 IMO. The fluid tips cost about $50 and don't require changing the needle so that isn't bad. The last tip and needle I had to buy for my SATA ran about $130 if I remember right. I haven't sprayed Barry's Universal clear yet but I'd bet the 1.3 will work well. I've shot some pretty thick stuff with the 1.3 like Sikken's Autocryl Rally Black-it's like tar compared to other urethane singlestages.

Well the way I see it is. I rememeber when I had a piece o crap gun, and a gallon of cheap clear... And have never touched anything in my life, other than the base I just sprayed.. So I grabbed the gun. mixed the clear and started spraying, and it turned out just fine. I'll figure it out fairly quick i'm not worried. plus the way I see it is that I can't be a sissy about it, that's when things go horribly wrong...

chadsbodyshop49119 · #29 (**permalink**) 11-10-2005, 08:19 AM

Ok... now here's another question for you guys out there... i'm going to be spraying the universal clear with the iwata with a 1.4 tip.. i'm going to be spraying with the shop temp at right at around 70 degree's, the first job i'm going to use the clear on will be a fender, a door, and a bumper cover that will be off of the vehicle. for being only 3 panels should I use the fast or the normal activator?? I'll figure it out on my own in time i'm not worried about it too much just looking for a place to start from...

I'm really excited to try all of barry's stuff out, have any of you guys out there used any of his other clears.. he has quite a few... what about the euro clear.. i've sprayed a few euro's and usually like them... anyone here try it? This stuff can get so confusing at times.. it seems one clear would do the job for everything but, it's also nice to try the different ones as i'm sure each has it's advantages.

chadsbodyshop49119 · #30 (**permalink**) 11-10-2005, 08:25 AM

Ok one more question for now lol...
hope i'm not asking too many.. i've got many questions to ask about Spi.. I havn't been this excited about a paint company in some time..
but my question would be what clear is considered to be the premium clear.. the best clear out of all clears he has, when i say best i'm saying as in for a superior looking paint job.. something that i want to put on one of the nicer restoration type jobs.. this might even be a question for barry.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)