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11-10-2005, 10:39 AM
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HUMM???
Jim, You did not get in on our LPH discussion awhile back if I rember right SO, WHAT is YOUR set up with the 1.4 LPH-400? Bob & I (Rich too?)came to the conclusion that the 1.3 shot clear MUCH better running 20-30 psi at the gun reg with the trigger fully pulled instead of the recomended 16-18.Paint is more "normal recomended setting's". Also,painting closer to the panel 4-5" instead of the usuall 6-8 even 10". Not trying to hijack the thread but IF I switch to the 1.4 I DON'T want to play this game all over again. Chad,The Iwata is a GREAT gun but it will take some adjusting on your "normal" painting mechanics. This IS a different animal. Do a search here and you'll get some good information from our trial & error with it. Mike. 
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11-10-2005, 10:59 AM
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Sound's interesting... i'll do a search for the Iwata's later... they are supposed to be the top of the line and also more efficient, so that's why i'm giving them a try... I've always used the Sata's. played with a few guns here and there but mostly the sata's,, never tried the Iwata. but i have one here so that will change shortly... hopefully it'll work for me..
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11-10-2005, 03:17 PM
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I use an lph400 with the 1.4 and universal clear.. i have my fluid a half turn away from all the way out and my air -pressure up pretty high.. i forgot how much exactly ill check when i go back to the shop.. im still playing with it a little bit but as of right now its close to being perfect....
I sprayed the universal clear with my sata 2000 with the 1.3.. it was sllooooow and the clear just wouldnt lay on as nice as i wanted it to. but that was a hot day and i didnt screw around with the settings too much. Quote:
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11-10-2005, 06:34 PM
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i usually run my lph at about 20 lbs when warm. its starting to get cold around here now. in the winter months i bump it up about 5 lbs and also preheat the clear. clear is very temp sensitive and gets alot thicker when cold. if i dont do both of them then...run city.
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11-10-2005, 06:40 PM
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I'll have to remember that one... I usually keep the shop at 70 when i'm spraying but i'll just have to remember to make sure the clear is not still to cold
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11-10-2005, 06:55 PM
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when you mix the clear, feel the side of the cup. if it feels cool then its probably too cold. i like the cup to feel warm, 90deg maybe. you'll notice a hugh difference in atomization.
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11-11-2005, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
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11-11-2005, 05:47 AM
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yeah, i remeber giving that tip on here last winter and the couple people in the thread thought i was full of ***** for some reason. if i dont do it the clear goes on so thick it will run all over. this is the hardest time of year for me to spray. get used to spraying one way all summer now i have to break all the habits and spray a little different in the winter.
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11-13-2005, 12:49 AM
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Ok my friend tried the universal clear on something he was painting this weekend.. i'm going to try it this week and will let ya know what i think, but he did have one complaint... he put it on a late model chevy pickup, and he said the biggest thing he saw that he wasn't sure about.. was that he actually said that it almost looks as if the clear looks too good..lol... what a thing to complain about..lol.. I had to laugh at him.. he said it made the rest of the truck look worse. and it is in good shape too... I told him good as this is what I was looking for.. he said, he liked it a lot and found it easy to use.. the only thing he wasn't sure about is he actually thinks it is going to look to good for some jobs.. he's more worried about getting things in and out than he is quality..
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11-17-2005, 04:59 PM
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Ok my friend tried the clear on a new hood and fender, well he got some fish-eye's (not the clears fault obviously).. but he left a small box fan on to circulate heat, and it hazed on him
 .... well he sanded it with 1000 to get the fisheys out then 1500 then 2000 tried buffing it and fish-eye's still too bad so he figured he had to repaint it... so he sanded it with 800-1000-1500-2000-3000.. didn't go through anywhere...lol.. now that's alot of sanding.. so he buffed it and says it looks excellent.. so he's not going to repaint...lol... but it's probably a little on the thin side..?????... i donno... but i was surprised he didn't go through... ok now i tried it today... i sprayed it in a gun i've never used, a disposable cup system i've never used, and i sprayed 2 coats as it's just a few panels on a collision. after the second coat. i stood in there for i'd say 3 min or so just to keep a eye on it as i sprayed the second coat really wet. and turned the fan off on the way out.. and didn't look back for another hr, as this is kinda a unusual technique to me.. well no runs and it looked AWESOME!!!!!! well checked a few hrs later and it still looks the same.. If this is how it always works and doesn't do anything weird... i've just found my new clear...   it'll take some getting used to as i'm using a new gun, and the gun is alot different than what my sata was,, but i think i like it better.. so i think i finally found my setup... I hope anyways...lol..
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11-17-2005, 05:07 PM
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Glad you are happy with the product... Never seen anyone not like it
BK
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11-18-2005, 03:57 AM
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If you follow the directions on that Universal Clear, it will wear you out trying to sand thru it, as it goes on so thick. I also believe that the directions say not to leave a fan on it.
So you say the fisheyes sanded and buffed out. WOW Aaron
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11-18-2005, 06:10 PM
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OK, well i sanded it and buffed it this morning and it seemed a little too soft, it did buff good but it just seemed a little soft.. after i sprayed I kept it at 70 for about 2.5hrs then turned it down to 60 for the night,, I used normal reducer. so my question is this what would you suggest to have it not be so soft,, would you suggest leaving heat higher all night,,, use fast hardener,, or use a little accelerator... I would prefer to not leave the heat up as my building is really expensive to heat... It sat all night so I wouldnt think time is the issue,,, any suggestions would be appreciated..
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11-18-2005, 06:36 PM
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Quote from SPI tech manual
"For large areas consider the fast activator mixed with the normal activator when the booth temperature is below 60 degrees.".
It is common with epoxies that they slow way down on the cure in cold weather..that is why the fast activator is available..What you now have will be fine..just give it a bit more time.. You may wish to put a heat lamp on that area to speed things up a bit..Just a suggestion tho... OMT
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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11-18-2005, 06:59 PM
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Well on some jobs id like to be able to buff the next morning and the way it was today, it wasn't quite ready to buff.. on resto's or customs this would have been perfect as i could have sanded today, and buffed tomorrow, that would have been a good combo, but i didn't know you could mix the hardeners.. what about if I did 50% for that job as there were only 3 panels? and maybe 75/25 when there is more area, when it has to be buffed the next day??
from what I saw I think that the normal would have been perfect for the same app in the summer time...
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