[chadsbodyshop49119]

Ok i've got to say that the reviews of spi are awesome here,, i talked to barry today, and he's a awesome person to talk to. everyone seems to have good things to say about it... and there are usually good and bad things about all products... I guess what i'm wondering, is there anyone out there that has tried spi and didn't like it... as i said everyone raves how good it is.. just wondering if there is anything at all that's not awesome about this stuff... i'm going to give it a try, and if half of what everyone here says is true,, i know of 4 shops and 2 or 3 techs that do work on the side that'll be using it out here in michigan... so i just hope alll the positive's i've been hearing are true, and will work well for me also... so I gues my question is... are their any complaints or things to watch out for with the spi stuff...

P.S.. I can't wait to get my hand's on this stuff, and will be posting my opinions as soon as i use it...

[mrcleanr6]

i dont think you'll have to many replies on this one. to be honest i have no complaints on any of the products i use. i haven't tried everything though. the only thing i've used that i thought was a little strange was the sealer. not that there is anything wrong with it but i found it not to be quite as user friendly as some of the others. i usually use hok koseal. most sealers are like a real slick primer where spi is more like a super watery clearcoat. dries to a high gloss. the stuff works fine just a little more tricky imo. other than that everything else i've used is awesome.

[chadsbodyshop49119]

I guess the reason i posted is to learn if there anything to watch for when trying to learn how to use these products..and see if there was anyone out there that does not like it also. I am trying even if a few people don't like it for one reason or another, i've liked things before and others haven't.
If this were a post about some of the other brands i bet there would be many post's already.. so this is already impressing me..

[mrcleanr6]

i'll tell you what. i've been here on hotrodders for quite a while now and i have yet to hear anything negative. as far as using the products, there really isn't much of a learnig curve with the stuff. its all very easy to use and pretty forgiving. if your used to spraying thinner medium solids clears and primers then it may take a little getting used to because most of the spi stuff is thick. its been a few years but if i remember right barry told me the universal clear is somewhere around 56% solids. thats pretty darn high. i love it because it builds up over graphics fast.

[chadsbodyshop49119]

Originally Posted by mrcleanr6

i'll tell you what. i've been here on hotrodders for quite a while now and i have yet to hear anything negative. as far as using the products, there really isn't much of a learnig curve with the stuff. its all very easy to use and pretty forgiving. if your used to spraying thinner medium solids clears and primers then it may take a little getting used to because most of the spi stuff is thick. its been a few years but if i remember right barry told me the universal clear is somewhere around 56% solids. thats pretty darn high. i love it because it builds up over graphics fast.

Well this is kind of the responses I was hoping for, especially looking for the bad with a product,, the reason i'm looking for different responses is because these products almost seem too good to be true...
when you say it covers graphics fast, that is awesome.. I just did some flames and put 4 coats of clear, and still went through the edge trying to get rid of it.. no big deal as it got pinstriped anyways.
and also being of higher solids.. 2 coats should be good on my collision jobs then..

[chadsbodyshop49119]

Just outta curiosity, if you say it sprays thick will it spray good with a 1.3 tip.

[OneMoreTime]

Originally Posted by chadsbodyshop49119

Just outta curiosity, if you say it sprays thick will it spray good with a 1.3 tip.

SPI reccomends a 1.4 tip or larger for their clears...they are a bit thicker than what you may be used to..As with any product that you have not used before you need to spray out a test panel or 2 to get the feel of it before you use it on a finish job..

Another thing I can think of is that if your air supply is marginal that may give you some difficulty..I found that to be the case for me..Of course my air compressor is on the small side..

Other thant that the SPI products work just fine and seem easier to work with than others I have tried..

OMT

[BarryK]

I will not promote my stuff on here but will give negatives.

*You CANNOT use a 1.3 tip with ANY of my clears.
It may work but you are asking for problems.
Must be 1.4.

*Fan MUST be shut off after last coat is applied.
Unlike everyone Else's these clears HATE air flow.

*Clear cannot be baked higher than 120 on average for a very short time.
(low temp bake)

These are the main negatives.

[GRN69CHV]

I used the SPI EPoxy black, then applied PPG OmniSV 2K and will use PPG base ('69 Frost Green), then plan to use the SPI Universal clear. The SPI EPoxy went on great. Did my filler work over it and after a week cure I was able to feather the epoxy also. Aplied a seal coat of epoxy, waited 6 hours, then applied my 2K. Adhesion to the SPI is good. No signs of compatibility problems. I would have used the SPI 2K, but decided to keep my 2K and Base Coat in the same family, not that is may make any difference, just how I wanted to do it.

PS - Barry if you check back in, what is the deal with the air flow? Would this matter if you maintained a lite positive pressure air flow just to control fumes? How long would you need to have the clear coat sit before turning on the fan again - assume 2 coats and 60* temps.

[baddbob]

I'm assuming the clear airflow limitations on the last coat is to just let the clear stay open longer and flow more letting solvents escape easier and less chance of solvent pop and dieback.

The SPI epoxy is some awesome stuff, excellent adhesion, excellent durability, the stuff is hard as a rock after full cure. Great stuff IMO.

[rkw1969]

I just recently (last month) bought and used the spi epoxy and 2k high build on my 69 camaro and can tell you both products are very good based off my limited experience with body work. The 2k high build goes on really well and block sands easy. Everyone that has seen the body thinks it looks like a new one. Barry has been outstanding when i asked him alot of questions about problems I had, all my fault not the product. The only thing I would recommend and Barry says it here all the time is to make sure you mix everything for several minutes. I mix at least two minutes or more before using and havent had a problem since i started mixing that long. I am just about out of my 2k high build and will definatley be buying some more to finish the rest of the body. I am gonna be using one of the clears over a PPG base (unless I can find a picture of a car with spi viper blue on it so i can see what it looks like. Hint, Hint Barry) sometime this spring and cant wait. The prices are very good for what you get.

[chadsbodyshop49119]

Now where heading in the direction I was looking for... I would have sprayed the clear with a 1.3 tip otherwise.. or is it ok to reduce a little? i'm guessing no but have to ask.. this is ok though as i'm going to be buying a Iwata soon and if the clear works and I like it, i will be buying it with a 1.4 tip...lol...

[Bee4Me]

Interestring point as I have a Iwata LPH 400 with a 1.3 tip.
But, The way this gun lay's material with a 1.3 I'm not so sure it's a problem.

[BarryK]

PS - Barry if you check back in, what is the deal with the air flow? Would this matter if you maintained a lite positive pressure air flow just to control fumes? How long would you need to have the clear coat sit before turning on the fan again - assume 2 coats and 60* temps.
************************************************** ********
The air flow is a self (me) induced problem.
Positive pressure would not be an issue but air flow that you find in some cheaper booths can be.
Reason for this is I have gone to great lengths to make a ladder scale solvent system in these clears since a lot of my business is restorers and custom painters who do not have good paint booths. The objective was to have the clears flash in 3-5 minutes with out effecting the midcoat time for burn in on big jobs when hot out. Flash time is dust free time, to keep the job cleaner in bad conditions.
With that said in a short, there are no solvents that can fall back down on the job to cause dieback or popping if room is closed up.
bwk
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I'm assuming the clear airflow limitations on the last coat is to just let the clear stay open longer and flow more letting solvents escape easier and less chance of solvent pop and dieback.
*****************************************
Exactly, shut off within 2 minutes.
bwk

***********************************************
unless I can find a picture of a car with spi viper blue on it so i can see what it looks like. Hint, Hint Barry
*******************************************
Have a spray out- email me address and will mail.
bwk

***********************************
Now where heading in the direction I was looking for... I would have sprayed the clear with a 1.3 tip otherwise.. or is it ok to reduce a little?
********************************************
Ok to reduce but the reduction will not help with a 1.3 as on the 1:1 you would need to reduce 70-100% to get it in the medium solid range.
At that rate you just killed the clear and better off to buy an Omni or Nason.
I should add, if your just doing a side of car and weather is cool you may get away with 1.3 to try the stuff out. If raining out don't try it but say 65-75 and 40% humidity, it will do ok except don't risk on an allover type job
Bwk

[rkw1969]

Umm Barry forgive my ignorance but what is a spray out? You sent me a chip card with the colors last month is that it?