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Old 04-29-2005, 04:06 PM
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SPI Epoxy Observations...

Hi All,

I finally had a chance to shoot some of my epoxy and that in itself has raised some <new> observations and questions:
  • This stuff is THICK! I do not have a shaker and resorted to 15 minutes with a stir stick just to get to a point where there was no longer any "clumps" hanging from the stick. Is this normal?
  • It seemed to thin out nicely after adding the catalyst and sprayed real nice. A question on the catalyst - I've heard that once opened, the cat will degrade over a short time and become useless. Has anyone tryed purging the container with an inert gas? I purged my opened can with C25 welding gas.
  • I was quite suprised to see that the finish is GLOSSY. Did I do something wrong or is it supposed to be glossy?
  • Once hardened (4 days) it's pretty tough to sand. I deglossed it with a grey scuffpad and it seemed to take a lot of effort. GOOD, I'm thinking!
  • What in tarnation do I use to clean up? I tried enamel reducer, but that resulted in me wearing most of what was left in my gun! I ruined my gun brush, too (gummed up). This stuff stayed tacky throughout the cleanup.

Thanks!

Russ

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Old 04-29-2005, 04:32 PM
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Try some cheap lacquer thinner from the big discount stores. Reducer is far too expensive to use as a clean up.

Vince
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Old 04-29-2005, 04:42 PM
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-my experience with it was ok, I did have to stir well to but that is pretty common in little bit of experience in painting.
-purging was probably a good idea if it will be awhile before using again.
-glossy finish is normal, barry says more than once in his tech sheets you do not have to sand, the top coat or primer will bond to it. He does not give a time window of how long this is so I also sanded since it was days later before I coated.
-lacquer thinner is what you always use to clean you gun for any paints
-My thoughts on the epoxy is it seams to be a excellant product, but is not user friendly.
Meaning that it is messy to use like a enamel (sticks to everything when sprayed) and has a long drying time.
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Old 04-29-2005, 05:14 PM
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FWIW, I store my catalyst in a ziplock bag with as much air squeezed out as I can. Seems to work so far.
Never thought of using the gas,Might work good if your fast on the cap.
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Old 04-29-2005, 08:39 PM
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the epoxy cleans up with the laquer thinner!!! i usually clean my guns with acetone and that just seems to break it down and turn into this gritty substance that is hard to clean. sometimes i forget and it turns into a big gun cleaning session. the recoat window on the epoxy is 7 days. i always thought the spi epoxy sanded easily. it might be because you were using a gray pad. those are quite fine and would require some effort. the maroon pads, 4 or 600 would work easily. even though the recoat window is 7 days, i personally would sand any epoxy after 24 hours. unnecessary?? maybe....maybe not. i few years back i had too many adhesion problems with basecoat sticking to epoxy (not spi) so better safe than sorry i guess.
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Old 04-30-2005, 05:51 AM
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What color epoxy did you buy? I have use alot of SPI black epoxy and have had great results. I ran low on black and mixed gray with the black to make dark gray. The gray seemed thicker and I did have to mix a long time. I have waited 7 days without sanding and have not had any problems. I believe SPI has the best epoxy that I have ever used and costs alot less than major name brands. You can save alot of money by using SPI products.
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Old 04-30-2005, 04:35 PM
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I got the white because I'm painting the inside of my old Ford too and wanted something that would be easy to see, both while painting in a dark "booth" and afterwards... I'm REAL happy with how it came out and will be picking up a 5 gal. pail of lacquer thinner for cleanup.

Barry! Any thoughts on purging (inert) gas inside the can before capping?

Russ
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:13 PM
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The mixing of epoxy you fill find it quit normal that the epoxy does not really want to mix with the part B. It does take a little more effort than when mixing a hardener with say a clear. What i normally do is mix the two, let set for a few more minutes and at that point its had time to mate and will mix together very easy.

Yes that epoxy is made to be shiny depending how you spray it. the reason is we use it on frames of restorations and in side engine compartments so with a little urethane reducer added or a wetter or dryer coat we can match the gloss be it low sheen or a semi-gloss by the way we spray the product.
The OEM gloss level under the hood of a 66 Mustang is different than the OEM black under the hood of a 69 GTO so we can adjust.
The gloss does not affect adhesion of the primer or base if the epoxy is step one and not the final step so it really does not matter the gloss level you end up with as a undercoat.

ENAMEL reducer will not work in cleaning you gun. You must use a lacquer thinner or a urethane reducer to clean the epoxy.

A gray scotch pad will not work very well on epoxy for sanding, that is for sure.
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