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Old 04-18-2010, 09:36 PM
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SPI Epoxy Primer

Does SPI epoxy primer have to be painted over if it is not going to be openly exposed. For example, behind taillight housings. It will be bare metal underneath. You can see in the photo where the tailight housing will be. It will be attached with a gasket between it and the body.

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Old 04-18-2010, 09:38 PM
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Sorry, I forgot to attach the photo.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:53 PM
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I don't believe so. It is my understanding that there is no need to cover it unless it is going to be exposed to sunlight. I am not sure about that. I have been told that I don't have to cover it at all because it is such a good product and also heard that sun expose breaks down epoxys over time if not covered. I am sure the best thing to do is call Barry at SPI. Super easy to talk to. Don't be afraid to talk to him.
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveFeezy
Does SPI epoxy primer have to be painted over if it is not going to be openly exposed. For example, behind taillight housings. It will be bare metal underneath. You can see in the photo where the tailight housing will be. It will be attached with a gasket between it and the body.
No.
Barry says that you can even use the epoxy on the under carriage and not have any UV problems.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:54 PM
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barry also says uv would not effect it for 3-5 years. It will not chaulk
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Old 04-20-2010, 03:50 AM
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At least ....Mine has been outside for six years with no sign of chaulking....
No direct sun /no problem
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:11 AM
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Hey Dead bodyman,
I'm leaving for Augusta this morning got to look at two vettes, be done by 10:30-11. If not busy will buy you a starbucks, not sure how far you are from 20 and Washington Rd but I never go to Augusta without stopping there.

If not busy, call me on the cell, won't have computer access till tonight.
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:38 AM
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Sounds good to me. I've never been in a starbucks...I always thought drunkin donuts was the best coffee...But I'll try anything twice...If you like lunch we have the best shrimp po boys just up the street from I-20....Beats the crap outa those epoxy sandwichs.... I'll be in a silver LS Impala
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:21 PM
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Just outta curiosity, why not paint it? I always thought it looked hoakey when you pull a car apart and theres no paint anywhere hidden.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:02 PM
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I would like to paint the car in one piece. Its easier and less chance of screwing up. I'm also at the very early stages of getting this thing paint-ready and don't feel like buying paint just to get the car back together.

But maybe I am wrong. Would it be better to paint it disassembled, at least just this part disassembled. It seems like if I keep primering over a seam and eventually painting over this seam that there is potential for a crack to develop.
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:36 PM
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If Im understanding right, I personally would paint that whole area when you spray your trunk jamb. That way, if someone ever does have to pull the taillight housing for whatever reason, it looks like a high class job. Prep would be damn near the same, the the extra $ in materials really isn't all that much in the long run.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:12 AM
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Theres a couple ways to do it but I'd paint everything.
You can paint the body with everything off then paint all the pieces or you can paint all the back sides of everything and put it all together then paint the the car.
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:34 AM
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Five,
only for the idea...
epoxy only on the inside surface of the qtr panel extensions that bolt on (for a example) is plenty good rust protection moisture/air barrier...

fitting extensions can be a total pita so mounting/aligning them before paint can be smart for no chips/scratches/cracks/whatever...

(BUT that area on a car does catch alot of dirt crap and stay wet to long to often which can allow rust to start even with a gasket)

2 part urathane top coat is also a very very good moisture/air barrier to prevent rust,,,, to then have a "belt and suspenders" worth of hidden metal surface protection...

or you could apply 2 coats of epoxy for more better protection (which I would do to the body metal under the extension)

BUT you don't have to use 2K urathane topcoat to get more better "bullet proof" barrier protection on dirty/wet hidden areas....

for parts like those extensions inside surface ("if" they are steel and not pot metal or aluminum castings)...
I really do like Duplicolor rattle can truck bed liner (Walmart/auto parts store) on top of the epoxy....
it's pvdc plastic resin so once cured it is very similar to a copper wire plastic insulation cover/home pool liner worth of moisture/air barrier that grabs like a SOB when cured...
extremely easy to use,,,next to no overspray,,,very fast dry time so if you do a "whoops" wipe it quick with lacquer thinner....

my point is to think about "what" a car area or part needs first for longest metal life possible then plan "how" you are going to attack doing the assembly....

and there are many ways/products to get a belt and suspenders worth of protection without top coat paint on hidden surfaces...

quarter panel extensions are not a good pick for a reference part example to explain my point but the extensions better fit your full question...
(inside door bottems is the classic example,,,worst environment/most abuse area on a car)

Last edited by red65mustang; 04-22-2010 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for all the advice.

So, say I paint it after assembling the extensions to the quarter panel. Would it be likely that the paint would crack at the seam since the paint would br "bridging" at the seam between the quarter panel and the extension?

Or say I paint before assembling. Would it be more likely that the paint chips while I am reassembling and aligning the pieces?

Again, thanks guys.
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Old 04-23-2010, 06:34 AM
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Five,
re: "bridging"
the total paint thickness for all the layers combined/together on todays cars is only 6-7 mils thick...
a normal business card is roughly 10 mils thick,,,a kitchen trash can liner is 1mil thick for visual reference for what 7mils total thickness looks like...
(for repairs epoxy/primer/base/clear the goal is to have a max ten mils total layers thickness so it won't crack and can expand/contract/flex correct)

paint is always thinnest on a sharp edge...
it can be a challenge to get enough paint color and clear on a edge and not have a puddle from runs on the floor from the surrounding area with the part mounted on a car...
(bridging is not the typical problem)

do a test fit with the new gasket now to find out what the gap is going to be...
the gasket is there (in part) to insure there is a gap so the metal can never rub from a pot hole "bam" or whatever...
(the gap is never straight as it could be,,,use a flat file and improve it and/or spacers at the mount point)

hint:
sometimes after doing the align the adjustable mount to best possible on any car part.... (extensions/fender/doors/whatever),,,you can drill a couple of small holes and use sheet metal screws for "fixed position locators" so that in the future you can remove then remount that part to best possible again no sweat...
re-attach it with the screws first then bolt it down with the oem hardware...
and/or deep scribe hidden reference lines on both parts surfaces that will show after paint to remount align to...

It sounds to me from your post's body/paint work is all new to you...
my BEST advice is practice the whole process start to finish on something else first (your kid's bike/lawnmower/scrap fender from a body shop/whatever)....

{LOL,,,I swear left over paint "breeds" in a body shop fire safety locker!!!!}
stop by any body shop/paint supplier and they likely can set you up with enough materials to practice with at very little or no cost...

you are very smart for asking "before" type questions rather than how to fix "after" completion questions...

but there is just no better teacher than actual hands on experience by practicing and seeing what happens...

a "practice" needed example???:
the extensions are rarely ever even close to truly flush with the quarter sheet metal top and sides...
on something else,, practice using filler to blend 2 pieces bolted together to be flush and then very carefully cut them apart with a very fine tooth hack saw blade so it can be unbolted (and have a uniform straight cut line showing)....

Last edited by red65mustang; 04-23-2010 at 06:42 AM.
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