spi epoxy test - Page 10 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #136 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 06:24 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,839
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
I probably had a few post in that "epoxy primer wipes off with a lacquer thinner soaked rag" thread from a while back. I actually did the test myself with my steel 34 Ford 4 piece hood which had been primed with PPG DPLF and set in my garage for over six months until I read that very thread. I went to the garage and with a lacquer thinner soaked rag wiped the DPLF right off like it was still wet.. Cleaned it all off and purchased SPI and never looked back.

Vince

    Advertisement
Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 302 Z28 For This Useful Post:
DLT (06-16-2013)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #137 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 01:05 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 345
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
In a previous post I asked a question about sandability and if a epoxy formulation with good sandability would lose something on the other end, like solvent resistance or adhesion. My lab guy Steve says you don't necessarily have to lose anything. A lot of times in paint formulations when you change something you lose something .From what I gather in this instance if it did lose something it would be very minimal.
Quick reply to this message
  #138 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 01:10 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 10,317
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,442
Thanked 693 Times in 509 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28 View Post
I probably had a few post in that "epoxy primer wipes off with a lacquer thinner soaked rag" thread from a while back. I actually did the test myself with my steel 34 Ford 4 piece hood which had been primed with PPG DPLF and set in my garage for over six months until I read that very thread. I went to the garage and with a lacquer thinner soaked rag wiped the DPLF right off like it was still wet.. Cleaned it all off and purchased SPI and never looked back.

Vince
Now Vince... You do know what this now means...hehehehehe
Quick reply to this message
  #139 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 03:02 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 345
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
Now Vince... You do know what this now means...hehehehehe
I'm curious, what does it mean?
Quick reply to this message
  #140 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 03:37 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 10,317
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,442
Thanked 693 Times in 509 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
I'm curious, what does it mean?
Now come on Mr.Pat... You have been here long enough to know what I was getting at...

This means Vince is now part of the club.. I think vince already knew this..
Quick reply to this message
  #141 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 04:22 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 345
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
Oh I thought it meant that when I have a question I go to the experts and get the answers. Oh silly me. Well one thing after speaking to the lab people I learned a few things,I am not really a epoxy guy. I mostly deal with moisture cure , and two component urethanes. As you probably know I am resurrecting the old zinc rich primer which will be in epoxy. The Mastercoat Zinc Rich Primer will be a little softer giving it good sanding properties, great adhesion, and some flexibility.You all can relax it's not for you guys ,this'll be for the companies industrial accounts.Again thanks, I'm always learning something new.
Quick reply to this message
  #142 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 04:44 PM
Irelands child's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Ford engine specifications Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 4,986
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 20
Thanked 242 Times in 218 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Oh I thought it meant that when I have a question I go to the experts and get the answers. Oh silly me. Well one thing after speaking to the lab people I learned a few things,I am not really a epoxy guy. I mostly deal with moisture cure , and two component urethanes. As you probably know I am resurrecting the old zinc rich primer which will be in epoxy. The Mastercoat Zinc Rich Primer will be a little softer giving it good sanding properties, great adhesion, and some flexibility.You all can relax it's not for you guys ,this'll be for the companies industrial accounts.Again thanks, I'm always learning something new.
Now - that's a wee bit condescending!!
__________________
Irelands child
Quick reply to this message
  #143 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 04:59 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 345
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
My apologies didn't make it sound like that. Sometimes when you try to be cute to get into trouble. Again my apologies
Quick reply to this message
  #144 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:16 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,437
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,574
Thanked 1,326 Times in 1,150 Posts
Ok, so I just ordered my first SPI epoxy primer. One thing I noticed in the tech sheet was the 30 minute induction period.

We strongly recommend you activate the epoxy by first stirring very well and then
allowing it to set/ induce for 30 minutes. Stir once again before spraying and the longer
you wait between spraying your coats of epoxy the better.




These two things tell me that it isn't going to totally insoluable for many days, or maybe never if this isn't done properly. I would think, maybe this is the big difference in one test to another.

Brian
Quick reply to this message
  #145 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:40 PM
35WINDOW's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Dash Mock-up
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: utah
Age: 59
Posts: 1,426
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 9
Thanked 37 Times in 32 Posts
Brian,

I have sprayed it both ways and haven't noticed a difference, but maybe it gives it more time to cross-link?
Quick reply to this message
  #146 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:44 PM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,780
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 256 Times in 202 Posts
brian , if you are going to try to build with it let it set overnite in a covered pail . it will build better then . if not the 30 min induction is all you need . especially if you reduce it with urethane reducer .
Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to shine For This Useful Post:
MARTINSR (06-21-2013)
  #147 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:48 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 345
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
The biggest mistake people make with epoxies and urethanes they don't read the product data sheet. Most epoxies have an induction time anywhere from 30 min. to one hour. With our AG 111 they don't stir the a part A of first ,or the hardner is not stirred in thoughly causiing soft spots in the coating or the coating just generally fails It's always a smart idea to get the product datasheet before you start playing with paint. Thank God today you can usually just get on the computer and get a sheet.As for cure times there are so many variables. Hope this helps.
Quick reply to this message
  #148 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 02:00 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,206
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 66
Thanked 110 Times in 93 Posts
The nice thing is the 24-48 hr pot life. If I have extra left over I cover the mixing cup with foil and store it in the house, and can spray spots I missed or something new that I prepped the next day, or even two days later. Generally I will prep all kinds of little spots to touch up all over the car and will end up forgetting some of them, which is really aggravating.
Quick reply to this message
  #149 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 02:09 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,437
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,574
Thanked 1,326 Times in 1,150 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
The nice thing is the 24-48 hr pot life. If I have extra left over I cover the mixing cup with foil and store it in the house, and can spray spots I missed or something new that I prepped the next day, or even two days later. Generally I will prep all kinds of little spots to touch up all over the car and will end up forgetting some of them, which is really aggravating.
According to the tech sheet it's 72-120 hours!!

Thanks for the tip Shine.

Brian
Quick reply to this message
  #150 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 02:10 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,437
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,574
Thanked 1,326 Times in 1,150 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
The biggest mistake people make with epoxies and urethanes they don't read the product data sheet. Most epoxies have an induction time anywhere from 30 min. to one hour. With our AG 111 they don't stir the a part A of first ,or the hardner is not stirred in thoughly causiing soft spots in the coating or the coating just generally fails It's always a smart idea to get the product datasheet before you start playing with paint. Thank God today you can usually just get on the computer and get a sheet.As for cure times there are so many variables. Hope this helps.
There is nothing I have repeated more over the years on the forums than....

"FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS TECH SHEET!"

Brian
Quick reply to this message
Closed Thread

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
spi epoxy swvalcon Body - Exterior 14 09-24-2012 07:34 AM
spi epoxy shine Body - Exterior 18 07-11-2011 06:25 AM
Flash rust OK under epoxy? SPI epoxy primer, Transtar 6131, or PPG Shop Line? off2wildblue Body - Exterior 2 07-29-2010 09:53 PM
SPI epoxy imperialman67 Body - Exterior 9 09-05-2009 07:34 AM
SPI Epoxy Q's S10xGN Body - Exterior 7 02-04-2008 08:29 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.