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Old 04-26-2011, 02:07 PM
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SPI Universal Clear: Runs????

I finally got my Mustang recoated but unfortunately I had everything done but the gun must have had the pressure change somehow. Anyway, the big mistake is that it was shot with too low of pressure on the first coat. I also have a hard time setting up the gun on clear because it is hard to see the pattern when I test spray it.

Any suggestions on setting it up?

Also, I shot the Universal Clear and it ran and pretty bad in some cases. I am trying to learn how to spray wet without runs. Needless to say, I need help with removal or runs or sags.

I just sprayed today. How long to wait and what method works good for this SPI Product?

I read that it depends on the type of clear.

Thanks,

SAM

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Old 04-26-2011, 04:24 PM
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You will get a quick answer here:
http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php

Although, the owner of SPI (BarryK) visits here also.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:28 PM
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http://southernpolyurethanes.com/adj...your%20gun.htm

this will get you in the ballpark. each product will need some fine tuning.

if still no luck give barry a call.....he'll walk you through it and have you going in no time.

what gun are you using?
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:59 PM
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Uv clear is some of the hardest to run imo unless you forget to move for a few seconds,lol!!!!!!!!!


have to get your rhythm down and gun set on go before you spray anything otherwise you can Fock up anything
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotbo
Uv clear is some of the hardest to run imo unless you forget to move for a few seconds,lol!!!!!!!!!


have to get your rhythm down and gun set on go before you spray anything otherwise you can Fock up anything
Or you're using the wrong reducer/activator as I tend to do out of habit with DuPont products. with DuPont, I always use the next higher temp activator than what the spraying temp is so it flows nice. With SPI, the temperature range is dead on, no need to screw around with anything. I now keep a range of SPI clear activator from fast to very slow in the cabinet. This is uncut or rubbed SPI Universal, sprayed through a Sata 3000RP digital at 14PSI as read on the gun adam. The black is single stage urethane with 40% flattening compound.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:48 AM
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I called SPI yesterday to see what was up. I had sprayed it at 11 psi. I know that is low but you commented on 14 psi. I sprayed the time before at 16 psi because the air cap (all chrome cap) on my Iwata lph 400 says it should be using that psi. I have great luck spraying with a color because I can set the gun on paper much easier but with the clear that is tougher. Anyway, SPI said I should be spraying the Universal Clear at 26-30 psi. Now this is much higher than your 14 psi.

What do you think?

SAM
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:55 AM
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I cut the pressure way back assuming I'd have to cut and rub. I started tracking my spraying pressure when I got the digital gun. When I first got the gun last year, I was spraying at 33psi and have steadily cut the pressure back and still manage to get around the car and have a tacky line to burn into where I started. SPI clear is the best I've ever sprayed. I'm using a 1.4 tip with this gun and have 1/2" hose and Hansen high flow air couplings, my compressor is a homebuilt unit with a Schultz 30 CFM at 850RPM pump driven by a Weg 7.5HP 1750RPM motor. The pump is only turning 600RPM and still gets ahead of the gun and can shut off while I'm spraying.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:37 AM
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I spray SPI Universal Clear with a Iwata LPH400 and 20 PSI
is the highest I ever go. Some go 20 to 25 psi, but mostly for metallics
to lay evenly, or to speed up application to finish sooner.
For clear, I don't see any need for more than 20 PSI. with the Iwata.
For small panels I even go down to the 16 psi specified,
for a lot less overspray and it does fine.
You can get runs with any pressure, you just have to get a feel
for the gun, any gun, and any clear.
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:48 PM
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I believe the Iwata is internally regulated to provide 10 psi at the air cap. That is not your supply air psi however. Your input supply pressure should be a lot higher, start at about 20 psi and see how it does. Spray a test pattern on brown cardboard that will help you see it.

Vince
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:43 PM
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For the most part I used 14-16 psig to spray the Chromabase as well as the SPI Universal Clear. I had to make a couple of spot repairs due to my "blundering" and went as low as 12 with my Iawata LPH400 w/1.4. These settings were right for my speed, but might not work for everyone. 26-30 psig ??? Wow

There used to be a forum on these guns but it looks like it disappeared.

Dave w
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:18 PM
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if you want to know about the iwata ask Hub aka dr.gun.

http://www.asetusa.com/
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
if you want to know about the iwata ask Hub aka dr.gun.

http://www.asetusa.com/
Not the one I had used but should work - now bookmarked. Thanks shine

Dave W
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:38 PM
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hubs a great guy. a lot like barry. he flat knows his way around a paint gun. he helped me a bunch when i first got my iwata'a .
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:12 AM
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That's great stuff guys. I will up my pressure to 20 and tweak it from there. That makes more sense than 26-30. That high pressure may work but I will try the 20.

I have a bunch of sanding to do today but on my next car in a couple months I will give it a try.

SAM
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Old 04-28-2011, 02:15 PM
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Well, I cut the clear with 400 then 800. I had a spot that was in the worst possible area for a run which is by the back quarter window where the sail panel meets the quarter panel on the drivers side. Trying to get that out I burned through the clear...surprise huh? Anyway, there was a blemish in that same area that needed fixed anyway. You can see the problem spots on the middle pic.

So how can I fix this?

Can I just spray some base to cover and then let it sit and then mist coat the clear and then apply two coats of clear on top of that and re-sand?

I guess that will give me a chance to practice my clear with the higher pressure anyway. However, I don't really want to do all that. I would have to spray the both quarter panels and the roof if I did this because there aren't any body panel gaps unless I tried to stop on a body line (67 Mustang).

I tried burning in clear at one time on a metallic paint job. I sucked on that one. I kind of just sprayed it and sprayed the burn in stuff from the aerosol can but I didn't have any real good advice.

Any recommendations?

SAM
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