Splitting front brake lines. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2007, 09:08 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mass.
Posts: 234
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Splitting front brake lines.

Trying to do my front disk conversion using 100% new parts.
Ok i cant use the combo valve anymore because that is set up for drum/drum.

So how do I go about splitting the front brake lines?
Can I just use a "t" fitting from say NAPA? or am I going to be forced to spend $130 on a new distribution block?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2007, 10:56 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I would ask the good folks at Engineering Components Inc. why you can not use the existing lines.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2007, 11:10 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
If you are doing a disc conversion up front and leaving the drums in the back then you should either use a combination valve for disc/drum or use a metering valve in the front line and a proportioning valve for the back.
ECI sells a stand alone metering valve for about 85.00

Here is what one looks like .


If you are doing 4 wheel disc, then just use a "T" that is designed for use with the tube you are using.

Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2007, 12:10 AM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
If you are doing a disc conversion up front and leaving the drums in the back then you should either use a combination valve for disc/drum or use a metering valve in the front line and a proportioning valve for the back.
ECI sells a stand alone metering valve for about 85.00

Here is what one looks like .


If you are doing 4 wheel disc, then just use a "T" that is designed for use with the tube you are using.

Later, mikey



So what is the difference between the one he has in place and the one that ECI sells? Is a Combination valve a combination valve, what is the difference?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2007, 12:20 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
A combination valve for a drum/drum system may have a rear proportioning valve and a switch to hook to your brake system warning light.
It has a splitter for the front lines but no metering valve.

A combination valve for a disc/drum system also has a proportioning valve for the rear, the warning light switch and a metering valve.

The metering valve keeps pressure from reaching the disc brakes until the rear brakes have started to activate. Usually between 10 and 40 psi, but I have heard of 100 psi.

The reason is that disc brakes will activate at low speeds with less pressure than the drums will. So, without the metering valve, the fronts will do all of the work at low speed.

I have driven cars without the valve and had the fronts lock up first in wet or slippery conditions. It can be annoying and possibly unsafe.

You can read what ECI has t say about those valves here
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html

Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2007, 03:55 AM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,334
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 52 Times in 48 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidaxel
So what is the difference between the one he has in place and the one that ECI sells? Is a Combination valve a combination valve, what is the difference?
drum/ drum will sometimes have residual preassure valves, right in them, which would cause brake drag on disc brakes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 07:53 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mass.
Posts: 234
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike

The metering valve keeps pressure from reaching the disc brakes until the rear brakes have started to activate. Usually between 10 and 40 psi, but I have heard of 100 psi.

Later, mikey

Ok i understand what you are saying but with a 10lb residual valve installed in the rear lines there will allways be 10psi in those lines right?
So the rears should activate a little before the fronts right?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 08:05 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
No, the 10# won't have any effect on the rears. It only keeps enough pressure to have some preload on the return spring so you don't use any more pedal travel than you need to.

Most rear brakes require 20 psi or more just to overcome the return springs.

That is why a disc/drum system needs to valved with a metering valve.

Pressures in brake systems can reach 500 or 600 psi just in normal use. A panic stop with a power boosted system can develop well over 1300 psi. 10# won't make a big difference in the activation of the rears, other than the travel at the pedal. You could say that 10# valve takes up some slack..

The link to ECI that I put up there explains the function of the valves also.

Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 08:14 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mass.
Posts: 234
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am definately not psyched about having to spend an additional 85 dollars on this project...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 08:30 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I'll have to say that going cheap on brakes is a poor choice. To some, only money matters.

You can run without the metering valve, alot of people do.

Going without it will make your front brakes do all of the work at low speeds.

I wrote in post 5 that it could possibly be unsafe in wet or slippery conditions.
If you had ever driven a car in wet or slippery conditions that did not have a metering valve, (I have), you would realize that 85.00 would be well spent.

There is a reason that almost ALL OEM disc/drum setups have that valve.

Knowing all of that should help you make your decision.

Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 01:15 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69ChevelleAddict
I am definately not psyched about having to spend an additional 85 dollars on this project...


I guess the PUCKER factor is not worth $85.00!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 06:21 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mass.
Posts: 234
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Someone just stole my bank account information today and has been making fraudulent purchaces so the new meetering valve is going to have to wait for a little while.
Thats ok, I cant drive the car until spring anyway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake Lines for 1968 Chevy SWB 68chevytrkr Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 10-03-2006 02:34 PM
Spindle interchanges bskaggs Suspension - Brakes - Steering 11 06-05-2006 01:29 PM
brake lines next to headers 49dream Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 04-22-2006 05:24 AM
Braided brake lines garbock Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 01-10-2005 08:56 AM
Brake lines how often should they be replaced? Jag Daddy Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 03-18-2003 04:56 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.