Is "Spot & Glaze" putty good for anything anymore? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2005, 07:11 AM
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Putty

If you guys have ever worked on a newer car, you will soon see the need for an easily sand-able filler. On the Honda above, I just finished filling a small dent in the right rear fender. The metal was so thin that it kept popping in when I tried to sand it smooth. Sanding a two part filler perfectly smooth in this area of the car was impossible. I was glad to have the putty.

Body putty works excellent for small dings and imperfections in the paint itself. I think that people have problems with shrinkage only because they don't allow the putty to fully cure.

Also, when it's 100+ in TexAss, you only have seconds to mix and apply the two part filler. I guarantee that you will get some bubble, pinholes. Putty is perfect for filling them.

Ya'll worry to much.....

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2005, 11:10 AM
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Tab, the metal wasn't ready for filler, that is why it was flimsy. I work with this stuff every day. It is seldom I work on anything older than five years old and mostly import.

You certainly don't need spot putty to work on them. If your polyester putty is kicking too fast, back off on the hardener. Polyester is thermosetting so super accurate mixing isn't as critical as say a urethane or epoxy.

Something like Metal Glaze or Glaze coat sand just as easy as the spot putty. This is digging WAY back in my memory banks of course, I have not sanded on stroke on spot putty in 20+ years.

I had a flimsy panel the other day and pulled out my shrinking disc just to firm it up. I still used filler, but in a quick minute the panel was firm for the filler.

Brian
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:39 PM
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A question here??

How about the high build primers? should they not take care of any pinholes or small scratches and be fairly easy to sand out..??

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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2005, 02:39 PM
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I am not a pro so I can't help but wonder how on earth can 1k spot putty fix a panel that keeps "popping in"? Are you saying you used it for FILLER???? Sounds like stretched metal to me not metal that is too thin.
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Old 11-30-2005, 03:18 PM
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I've worked on a few newer cavaliers. Let me tell you there isn't much to the metal on these. Take a finger and push and you can literally see the metal move in. I didn't have any real problems with regular or finishing filler getting it straight, but it takes a gental hand. Welding on that sheetmetal is fun. I did some filling of the holes from the factory spoiler. All was going well until the very last one to fill. Warped the trunk, and I had to pry and pound to get straight again as well as get rid of some oil can after the fiascal. Talk about po'd. Quite a difference from the 60's cars that have around 18 gauge sheetmetal to work with. If it pops in with a little pressure and stays in or pops in and out, you obviously have some stretching to take care of like Brian and the others said.
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How about the high build primers? should they not take care of any pinholes or small scratches and be fairly easy to sand out..??
Yes, but pinholes sometimes I found you need to take your finger and smear the primer while wet into them. Put on enough coats and it should sand out, or catch this in the first round of primer, and sand and apply more primer.

Last edited by kenseth17; 11-30-2005 at 03:27 PM.
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