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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2013, 02:25 PM
John long's Avatar
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Am I right to assume you want to do as little color sanding as possible to prevent sanding back to a paint line? I wheeled a new deck lid skin for a 41 Packard that had been rear ended. When I blended the body around the deck lid it looked good ( after three tries to get color match) but when I buffed it the paint line became more noticable the more I worked on it. I finally reblended it with another coat and buffed it without color sanding. The end result was good but pretty labor intensive.

John
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:25 PM
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I take it John that it was painted in a single stage metallic?

When your blending a Single Stage metallic I never color sand...just hand polish, other wise you'll knock the tops off the metallic's and then your going to need to start over. If it's a solid color Single Stage, you can prep your blend area with 800 wet cut you blend off anywhere, let it set up (cure) color sand and machine polish it out, especially if it's the same paint and paint company.

It's those pesky Single Stage metallic's that are the most difficult to blend, air pressure plays a role in the lightness and or darkness of the color and getting the metallic's to lay down properly can be difficult, that's why the Single Stage metallic Imron is virtually impossible to blend and Dupont for the longest time insisted on panel painting any repair on a vehicle that had been painted from the factory with SS metallic Imron, Like the old Peterbuilt's.

Ray
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2013, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I take it John that it was painted in a single stage metallic?

When your blending a Single Stage metallic I never color sand...just hand polish, other wise you'll knock the tops off the metallic's and then your going to need to start over. If it's a solid color Single Stage, you can prep your blend area with 800 wet cut you blend off anywhere, let it set up (cure) color sand and machine polish it out, especially if it's the same paint and paint company.

It's those pesky Single Stage metallic's that are the most difficult to blend, air pressure plays a role in the lightness and or darkness of the color and getting the metallic's to lay down properly can be difficult, that's why the Single Stage metallic Imron is virtually impossible to blend and Dupont for the longest time insisted on panel painting any repair on a vehicle that had been painted from the factory with SS metallic Imron, Like the old Peterbuilt's.

Ray
No this was a fairly dark solid blue but it seemed the blend line became more apparent the more I rubbed on it. I did not use a blending solvant but did use a slow DT885 reducer in a second touch up gun to melt the edge in. The origional paint was Dupont Chroma single stage and I repaired it with PPG Concept. It was acceptable when I finished but not what I hoped for. Also, it died back over a period of months. I rebuffed it the next spring and it looked better than ever.

Thanks for the follow up Ray.

John
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2013, 06:05 PM
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Your more than welcome John, DT885 is a reducer as you mentioned, used for temperatures 85 degrees and below. It is a slow reducer but, blending solvent would help you in the future to more readily melt in your blends. Try PPG's DX840, it's one of the best blending solvents I've used and I can almost guarantee that your going to get the results you want with less polishing. In a pinch I've tried the really slow reducer route and have always had to polish the blend, with blending solvent on clears and Single Stage solid colors (and of course if it isn't a show vehicle where your color sanding and buffing everything) your requirement to polish and the amount you polish would be substantially less.

Ray
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John long (04-03-2013)

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