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Old 07-19-2012, 04:35 PM
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spray tech

hey there folks.
been messin around with a conventional as well as a hvlp gun to get my coatings on my wood working projects. i would like some advise if anyone has some input. i have been using some waterbased laquer from target coatings, it works nice and easy, but up until this time my projects usually lie flat whilst i spray from above. so i have this special project involving some pedestals, it is sealed and flat and perfect. no longer a porous surface. i got some paint without real research, acrylic enamel, single stage. i have visited youtube and other forums and read alot on some troubleshooting. i took advise and got a devilbiss starter gun. upgraded my 2 stage 60gal compressor to 3/8" medium length line with a cam air filter/drier. now i am using a 1.3 tip 23 to 26 lbs at the gun, 4:2:1 paint reducer hardener, medium reducer. its 80 dgrees w 70 % humidity. the paint sure looks like its atomized, but i keep gettin the orange peel. i keep hopin the ****s gonna lay down but it tacks fast. i have watched all different types of how to vids and general spraying videos. i am matching distance and speed of the gun, as well as a cigar shaped fan pattern about 8" tall.i also have the fluid control out about 2 turns. i know that practice is gonna get me better, and there is no quick fix, but how do i get that coating on nicey nice glass without gettin big old sags, cause the luster on this stuff is quite nice when i did a piece that was laying flat. i am pretty sure that the chemistry is right, the mechanics are good, and the technique passable. do i just finish up that gallon i have and go get some 2 stage urethane? i also do not understand that cup that you check your viscosity with. it says like 12 to 14 seconds or something along those lines. if anyone has anything at all to say i would greatly appreciate it cause i am a patient guy, but i must have sanded those pedstals like 4 or 5 times now. and spraying a different surface to test doesnt seem to match results on project. i have used 400 grit after surface was flattened. the last time i just 220ed it, i mean if i have to i guess i could go through all the grits up to 20,000 then some wax, but still cant get that wet look. anyone? anyways thanx.

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Old 07-19-2012, 05:17 PM
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This is very general, but I hope it helps.
Orange peel, generally means the paint is too dry, and quits smoothing out, before it sets. It could be drying too fast, it could be sprayed too dry, and many other factors.
Runs, obviously, it is too wet.

It is going to be hard to get a vertical surface as wet as a horizontal surface.

Here is a tip that may help. After you are through spraying, go over the dry areas with mainly reducer, you can even just dump reducer in the paint gun cup, and a first step of cleaning the gun.

And you know this, but practice. lots of practice.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:51 PM
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Thanx Dan, I will give that a shot.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:45 AM
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What Dan says and a thought..clearcoat after you do any wet-sanding to get the paint to look right.
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