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Old 04-11-2013, 06:29 AM
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Spraying candy on 1946 chevy pickup

Hi guy's
I'm going to repaint my 1946 chevy pickup finely,with a candy apple red candy paint system. I know It's a helofa under taking, but what the hell the worst thing that could happen is sand it off and start over.
I need some advice spraying .
I plan on setting up with front fenders off ,but placed near where they go . Hood on and bed set back so I can spray all at once . Best starting and stopping points on that round cab is in question. Also if i walk the truck I have the round fender to deal with. any help would be appreciated
sorry for long post.
48 chevy pickup

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Old 04-11-2013, 10:12 AM
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First of all that is the shortest post on how to spray candies I have ever read or heard.

What kind of paint are you spraying, is the mid coat a dye, and how much experience do you have with paint?

Ray
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:39 AM
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Here is a "Basics of Basics" on spray technique to spray and even coat over parts. Unless the part is TOUCHING the other it isn't necessary to be so anal about it (my middle name is Anal) so as far as the bed, if you apply the same amount of coats applied exactly the same way you are going to be fine. Things like the doors were they are right up against AND on the same plane, that is where you really get into trouble with things like this.

Spraying Technique - Autobodystore

Now, this is coming from a guy who has painted thousands of gallons of paint, but next to zero candies so let's see if my "Basics" sounds good to someone who has shot a bunch of candy completes. But with the understanding I have of candies it would be perfect.

Brian
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:02 AM
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Brian, your "Basic Of Basic's is right on. Get the inside of the doors, door jambs, under hood, engine bay etc. and thing that will not be seen at the same time or level (plain) spray them first and mask up what you painted...leaving the doors on is very important and walking the vehicle will also give the best results. One of the most important things to watch for when spraying a candy mid coat is the over lap...it doesn't matter if it 50%, 65% or 80%...What matters is the consistency...every pass needs to be that same over lap. When you have that mastered, tri coats (true candies are tri coats) aren't nearly as intimidating.

I spray with about 75% over lap...I was told (by a painter that was quite well respected) that the way I sprayed was wrong, I should spray with 50% overlap and I would run into problems when doing a tri-coat blend of any kind...I disagreed and and went on a did several tri-coats on panels and what I found was the most important part of doing any tri-coat was consistency...just do the same thing over and over, coat after coat...sound simple, that's also the hardest part and does take a bit of practice.

Ray
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:34 AM
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overlap

I think I-car says 50% for solvents, 75% for pearls(assuming candy too), and 75% for waterborne. That said, I'm rustier than a nail but I'll ease back into the comfort zone by starting out with painting the small parts first on my car. Might bode well for candy spray as well.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:35 PM
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A little advice if you have not sprayed 3 stage or candies: with new paint additives - there are many 3 stage paints that have been converted to 2 stage. Most of the factory 3 stage colors are now 2 stage unless it is a new color (exception is 3 stage whites). Chrysler had a candy apple red that was 3 stage and is now 2 stage - same with many Ford and GM colors. You may find one of these colors very appealing to you and you just may find out it is a 2 stage color. PPG, Nexa, Sikkens, Wanda, and on and on have converted probably more than 90% of these - and you can not tell the difference. I have been able to panel paint some of these with Wanda.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:57 PM
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I just did a '38 Dodge panel in Apple Red candy. My best advise is to use a base color that is close to the shade of the cady... or darker, such as this customer wanted. His desire was for a color that was almost black until the light hit it.

You could go up to a medium shade of base, and still make it easier to spray... and to repair.

The problem in painting or repairing candies is that the base coat is usually lighter... then having any variation at all in the thickness of the candy will make that area lighter or darker than what is around it.

Try to find a base that is similar in shade (or darker) than the candy. Something like a darker tinted high-metallic gray or gold would help. The metallic will still light up when the angle is right, and offer that great candy contrast.

BTW... this base is black first... then three thin coats of a dark tinted HOK Metajules.
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