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Old 01-08-2009, 09:19 PM
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Spraying contact...

From another web site..may be useful for some:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...yApplying.html

Sam

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Old 01-24-2009, 12:35 AM
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sounds like a notched trowel is still the best way to go.

more adhesive less volatile

less time to wait till tacky

goes where you put it

don't have to inhale the adhesive and the volatile
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Old 01-25-2009, 05:23 AM
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The link Sam gave you is for woodworking. You do not use the same kind of contact adhesive for upholstery work. You need HHR (high heat resistance) contact adhesive intended for car interior work, or the glue will fail in the summer in a closed up car. Spreading contact adhesive with a notched trowel would take forever and would be a pain in tight areas. You will still have to wait for the adhesive to dry whether you spray it or trowel it. The glue is volatile one way or the other, and if the can is open, you will still have to inhale the fumes. The answer there is a respirator. Why do you have a problem with spraying the contact adhesive, it is the cheapest, fastest, most accurate way to apply the glue?
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Old 01-26-2009, 05:22 AM
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The problem is overspray

the glue must be far more dilute to be pushed thru a hose valve and nozzle
it requires a great deal more solvent.

then to even think about applying an even coat youve got to be at least a foot away from the spot you aim at.

Then after you use it youve got to clean the spray gun and the hose and the can or throw it out.

a trowel, brush or knife is far easier to clean

you can also do corners edges and small spots with a trowel

you can use glue as thick as tar with a trowel

Ive seen spray paint used on grafitti, things like railroad cars or retaining walls. labels on drawers generally use a brush.

trowells are good for putting glasing (non hardening glue) around windows
im sure a spray gun could do the job if you added enough solvent to make it flow through it.

next time you put on a gasket, go to your local parts store and ask him for a spray can of gasket cement.
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:01 AM
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I don't know what contact adhesive you're talking about, but the object isn't to get a smooth coat like paint. The object is to completely cover both sides of what you're gluing together. The glue has a pebble-like look to it after it is sprayed. I'm talking about Top and Trim contact adhesive, and the last thing you'd do to it is thin it with solvent, 'cuz it will fail if you thin it. You also don't need to clean the spray gun if you use an external mix gun that mixes the glue and the air at the nozzle. The hose doesn't have glue going through it anyway, only air, so that doesn't need to be cleaned either.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:08 AM
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Dan that HF gun you recommended a few days ago works great for the DAP adhesive. One thing though is you have to fill it almost full to spray a panel that is laying flat on the garage floor due to the tilt of the gun. The gravity feed guns do not have this problem, but the larger tip size of the suction feed gun is perfect for spraying the glue.

Vince
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:49 AM
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I always spray on my work bench which is 31" off the floor, and I haven't had any problems.
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:39 PM
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spraying contact

I've for the last 28 years always used a cheap spraygun to spray my glue with.Can buy them at harbor freight for about 17.00.I use weldwood adhesive never have had to thin it. Cheap gun most of the time last about 6 months with never cleaning, when it gets stopped up throw it away and get a new one. With the spraygun you can adjust your spray patten so there should not be any overspray.
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Old 01-30-2009, 07:54 PM
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I agree with the last two posts.

26 years of spraying not one issue. Mask what you don't want glued. With any solvent based liquid you need to Vent area (I put a fan in the door to blow fresh air through when in a car) and suggest using a good respirators. Yep Cheap spray gun, looser cheaper the better. Clog it up throw it out! I brush edges when wrapping or areas that are impossible to spray accurately.
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