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Old 12-05-2005, 05:53 PM
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Spraying Metallic colors? HOW?

I need help on this, I would like to repaint my 72 and it has light blue metallic color.

I plan on using bc/cc. I would appreciate any pointers you guys can offer. I have been told metallics are fairly easy to spray in basecoat.

If someone could give me a brief tutorial it would be great. I have 4 auto painting books with nothing in them about how to spray metallics and make them look right. also, done google searches and just can't seem to find anything.

Thanks! Andy

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Old 12-05-2005, 07:18 PM
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The key is consistancy in application and good gun setup. Maybe somewhat the gun you are using, I had some problems with my conventional gun getting mottling in metallics, but started using one at a bodyshop I got a job, and with this gun I could spray the base fairly wet and not have to do much mist coating, strange never could figure out why. Basically you want a good wide pattern, wide but not distorted. Test you spray gun out and make sure you are getting a proper pattern (this should be in the knoledge base, or I know brian Martinsr, probably has a write up, or can easily be searched for) Once you have you gun setup, when you start spraying keep your strokes consistant (wetter is darker, dryer is lighter) proper overlap ( I use 50%) and maintain proper distance. You want the base to be somewhat smooth but you are not trying to get gloss with it. You don't want a really wet coat, it will be more prone to tigerstripe and mottling. If you have coverage, and the base looks mottled or stripe, well then you have to mist coat to even it out. Hold the gun a little further from the surface, maybe a little more pressure, and spray at different angles like from the the bottom of the car diaganolly and then the other way diagonally like an x pattern. Same thing on the top surfaces. You can also reduce the base just a little extra and it may help. Search for how to mist coat (think also called drop coat or cross coat) and see if you can find an illustration or something, I am having a hard time explaining it. Make sure you mix the can of paint up well and also mix well when you add your reducer, and activator if its an activated base. When everythings covered and the metallic is even your are almost ready for clear ( allow proper flash time in tech sheets) which is what gives you your gloss and protects the color. As long as the base is somewhat smooth your okay, If by chance it is really rough, then you may want to smooth it out with some 1000 grit and spray another coat or two of color before clear instead of trying to bury it. Hopefully some others will chime in who are better explainers, Where is the professor (martinsr). He be able to explain well.
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Old 12-05-2005, 10:17 PM
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First advice is to use a QUALITY paint. The cheaper bases just don't spray or cover good and this gets you into trouble right from the start.
I still can't get light Nason metallics "right" and have absolved myself from this agony by just paying the price for Chroma series and "Having a Nice Day".
Metallic is a LOT like Kandy. You want a nice wide pattern being a little light on the ends.Do several test sprays and observe the "ends" of the cigar pattern and how it looks. This helps (me anyway) from stripping it.Don't expect to cover in the first pass like a solid color. BUILD IT UP. Try to maintain a CONSISTENT overlap of a LEAST 50%,75% being better IMO.You want good coverage but it's a dance between too much and not enough, I prefer not enough cause you can ALWAYS build it up but too much and you can't take it back. Most metallics will have a splotchy look until fully flashed,so a little is normal,don't trip out till it's flashed off.
Drop coats are the usual fix for mottling and just think of a blend when laying them on generally,your "dropping" the paint into the affected area. "X"ing will help when all else fails just don't be too deliberate with the pattern or you WILL end up with a big a** X.
Try to keep from running the vertical seems like door edges,trunk edges,ect. With an upward/downward pass after you been going back and forth at the end "just because". Sure fire way to make a stripe right up the door line.
KEEP THE GUN AGITATED by swishing it around to keep the metallics floating and NOT settling to the bottom of the cup.
Mix ALL the paint needed at ONE time,Divide it into separate containers and shake them well before adding into the gun. This helps keep the paint consistent through out the shoot.
USE good lighting. Painting with a couple of shop lights ain't gonna get it.
I generally run about 5-10# more air than a solid color.ATOMIZATION is the important thing here,You shooting lil pieces of metal and they need busting up.
About a hundred other things but this should get you there.
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:19 PM
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When doing a metalic color on a complete I still use the similar technique as I did with singlestage metalics years ago. Apply two to three medium wet coats to obtain full coverage with a good amount of flash time between coats to let the solvents escape, usually tack ragging and denibbing the surface between coats if necessary. Then apply one good medium wet coat followed by a drop coat walking the complete length of the car. The key to performing a good drop coat is to do it while the previous coat is still wet, this way the surface will accept the drop coat instead of having it pile up on the suface and cause a rough texture. Some colors need the drop coat, some don't, some basecoat lines are much more forgiving with excellent metalic stability while others are tough. Doing the drop coat assures me that the metalics are as even as they can be. Stay away from PPG Global basecoat untill you master good gun control, the older DBU sprays fairly easy, DBC OK, and Dupont's Chromabase and Chromapremier base are as easy as pie IMO. There's many to choose from. Bob
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:48 PM
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Extremely helpful info!!! thanks for taking the time to help a rookie out! Just one thing, could you please explain the "drop coat" to me a little more as like i said I am not a painter. Just tryiing to learn. Is it like a mist coat?

Thanks guys!
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novafreek6872
Extremely helpful info!!! thanks for taking the time to help a rookie out! Just one thing, could you please explain the "drop coat" to me a little more as like i said I am not a painter. Just tryiing to learn. Is it like a mist coat?

Thanks guys!
Mist coat, exactly, hold the gun about 12-14 inches from the surface and move it fast two or three times over the surface so it distributes the paint in very thin amounts over a large area. It's important that the coat below it is still in the recieving stage so it accepts the drop coat otherwise the thin drop/mist coat will just lay on top as rough dry overspray. Using slow drying reducers is a must and actually helps to keep the surface of the basecoat open for a more thorough dry before clear. Your metalics will be sparklin nice and even. Hope this made sense, some things are easier to show then explain. Bob
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:44 PM
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Thanks again
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:07 PM
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No problem, good luck on the project. Bob
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