[ric&mw]

Hello, Just an update first. My son & I are working on a 1953 Chevy Handyman Wagon. We have it stripped to the frame and have started on the Mustang II front end The only instructions were 2 pictures of what the front end should look like and it was a little hard to understand. I digress from my question for help.
We are now in the process of trying to install a 1985 Blazer rear-end with the Blazer springs.
To this point we have built new spring hangers (using the old riveted 53 as a template) and have moved them forward on the frame so the axel will be centered in the fender well. The place we are stumped and need help on. 1) Do we remove the rear spring hanger from the frame and move it toward the rear to match the newer spring length? 2) should we put some weight on the frame so the spring elongates as it would be with the body on. 3) When building the new rear shackle hanger can it be fixed solid on the frame or do we need to devise a way for the shackle to have some movement? trying to get a little lower to the ground than stock.
Thanks for the help and sorry for any questions that some may think trivial.

[willys36@aol.com]

Your front hanger will determine the whe to wheel well alignment as you say so that part is done. The rear hanger should be moved so the spring shackles will reach it with their arms streatched out but so they bolt easily goes in. Thus when weight is put on the spring it will flatten and will flip the shackles to their proper running orientation tilted from the top back toward the rear of the car a bit. Tack weld the shackle mounts in place and put the chassis on the ground and see what the springs do with some temporary weight put on them to simulate final car loads. May need to adjust final position so don't weld them solid just yet. In fact unless you are putting a show finish on the frame, I wouldn't final weld the mounts until the car is basically done. That way you can see exactly where they need to be to have the loaded spring shackle perfectly postioned. Then final weld and squirt a coat of paint on them. May need to remove or add a leaf after you get on the road for the proper ride and load carrying capacity but that is a pretty easy task.

[ric&mw]

Willys 36 , Thanks for the response . We have worked on centering the rear axle today and getting everything squared-up and ready for rearend installation. We are trying to use a 1984 Chevy blazer S-10 4x4 rearend and springs in the 53 Chevy. The S-10 spring ends and grommets are larger than the 53's so we plan on building our own rear hangers and using new grommets and bolts to attach to the frame. Your suggestion on spot welding temporally was good. I would have welded or tried to bolt on new bracket and had to redo again. As soon as I can figure out more of this computer I will try to add some pictures of this project. Thanks again, Ric.

[bartamos]

Try using the donor hangers and shackles.

[ric&mw]

Bartames, Just saw your e mail. Thanks for the reply to our problem. We have used the front hangers for a bolt on pattern and built our own , large enough to accept the springs from a 1989 Chevy Blazer 4x4. The rear hangers we have built also but have not bolted on as yet. We are going to have to set the body back on the frame to make sure we are centered in the wheel well correctly. It is amassing to see how much work is involved in doing what you might think would be so easy.

[bartamos]

Just trying to help because I did similar to a 56 GMC carryall with some advice from Willys. I assume you have put the front axle centerline in the same place as stock 53. Why do you not install the rear axle to the stock wheelbase? So as not to move the body especially if you are making your own hangers. You can drill and mount the hangers/spring mounts/shackles where needed to put axle on stock WB. Moving body may cause all kinds of fit problems with undercarriage items/pedals/gas tank filler/rear bumper/bump stops/etc. I am not too familiar with 53. I guess I have to assume your front is "back aways" so that you have to move the body back/ otherwise your front clip won't fit? I used 73-80 axles (4x4) and associated mounts located to proper stock wheelbase and front wheel distance to front of frame. As far as level. I believe in general, the designers designed the frames to sit level empty and sit level loaded. It seems like your front "axle" will set the height of the truck and you will adjust rear axle to set frame level, since front is welded in already. No one has the exact answers but these ideas/thoughts given from similar experiences. My fellow engineer Willys is greatly experienced at this stuff and knows what he is talking about. Keep in touch with him. Enjoy your project and your son.