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Old 06-20-2012, 09:55 PM
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Springs for this cam on stock heads

Hi to all.
I`m finishing a total rebuild on a 74 SBC 400, 030 over with flat top hyper pistons, Scat rods and Trick Flow cam (31401002, 246, 254 duration at 050, 510, 518 lift). I bought the cam from Summit and the tech line guy recommended me a set of valve springs that doesn`t fit in the stock spring pockets. Could someone recommend me a spring set to match this cam and fit the stock heads without machining? Maybe Beehive LSs? Good time to swap rockers and stems, right?

Thanks

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Old 06-20-2012, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by south65ss
Hi to all.
I`m finishing a total rebuild on a 74 SBC 400, 030 over with flat top hyper pistons, Scat rods and Trick Flow cam (31401002, 246, 254 duration at 050, 510, 518 lift). I bought the cam from Summit and the tech line guy recommended me a set of valve springs that doesn`t fit in the stock spring pockets. Could someone recommend me a spring set to match this cam and fit the stock heads without machining? Maybe Beehive LSs? Good time to swap rockers and stems, right?

Thanks
It's a good time to get rid of the stock heads!

If you are determined to run those weak smoggers, there are probably stock diameter springs that will work but you need to know what seat and open pressure is recommended for that cam. If you can get by w/120 lb on the seat and 300-310 lb open pressure, the "Z-28/LT-1" springs sold by the aftermarket will work. Part number 98214 if you use Competition Products, I'm sure Summit sells them too.

Be a good idea to check all the clearances while you're at it.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:36 AM
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You will find it is somewhat complicated to use that camshaft in stock heads.. Also too much cam for flow capabilities of stock head. .490 is practical limits for streetable stock heads.. I know you will get stories of guys with .500+++ cams with stock heads but there are better combinations..

Most of the time you will have to get + height retainers and locks to get the correct spring height and seat pressures. Most of the Z-28 type springs are all done at .500 lift. Hard to set up in stock limitations and do not last long.

Competition Products in Wisconsin sells kits to simplify the process if you don't want to use a professional cylinder head set up person. You will need specialized tools to do it correctly..
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:02 PM
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cam/400 sbc

Its close but I would like to see you have screw in studs with that camshaft.What the other fella said about installing better heads is a great idea,especially considering you may need to spend money on the smogger heads.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:00 PM
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Use summit -pioneer spring kit #PIO-810107-4
Order 4 kits for 16 springs.
install at 1.75" You still have to verify retainer to guide/seal clearance at full lift and may have to machine the guide boss shorter.

You still will need to drill and roll pin the rocker studs and use long slot rockers.
You will need to fully port the stock heads if you expect to make any
real power with that cam. Stock heads have very modest flow.
no flow='s no power

882 or 624 castings don;t even waste your time.

not a very good cam for making power with a 400 and stock heads.
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:35 AM
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A "side note", as a machinist.

We prefer to NOT "pin" the studs. That practice has fallen out of favor LONG ago. The reasons are straight-forward.

In olden times, "pinning"was a cheap and quick way to stop the studs pulling from the heads when using the the Duntov 30-30 or similar cam and factory "performance" spring. By the mid '60s, engineers recognized how superior screw-in studs and guideplates were over pressed studs and "slots", and it became more of a practice than a "special".

While pinning DOES keep the stud from pulling up, it also seriously weakens the stud where the hole is drilled through it. If too close to the "top" of the stud boss, the stud can and will break, possibly doing serious damage to the head in the process. This problem has become much more common over the last few years, where street engines are using more aggressive cam/lifter combinations, resulting in much higher spring pressures and stress to the studs.
If the stud breaks, it becomes a machinist's NIGHTMARE to remove. The rolled pins used to "pin" the studs are extremely "hard". This wreaks havoc with the drill bit. We often hear the complaint that it costs more to put the screw-in studs in AFTER a pin failure. It's not an excuse to extract more money. It takes more time to do it, especially when the bosses are damaged.

Another benefit of screw-in studs is the hex "base". It offers a much more stable platform for the fulcrum. And the guideplate is much more reliable for rocker arm alignment than the "slot" in the head.

This is not to say "Don't pin!" This is to make you aware of the different levels, reasons, benefits and risks of "pinning". For a "play toy" car with a "slightly hotter cam" that will never be revved hard or "raced", pinning is probably fine. For anything "serious", pay it up front, so you won't have to "down the road". You'll have a more stable valve train, which translates to more power, too!

Jim
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:07 AM
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smog heads

what mr p body said. What I did when I was in high school is I pulled out the stock studs myself by inverting a junk rocker arm and using a nut and washer to pull out the factory studs.What I remember is a couple studs came out quite easy!.I then tapped the stock bosses and used none shouldered threaded rocker studs.Bought the studs and borrowed the tap. The reason I remember is when Mr p body mentioned the 30/30 cam.We used the 30/30 cam and our modified heads on a 283.The car went a little better,but nothing to write home about.
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