I meant to attach pictures. Here they are.

 

.032 is plenty close. There will be clearance in the bolt holes in the brackets and you can always slot the bolt holes a little bit to get the axle where you want it.
I fixed some brackets years ago for a friend that the bolt holes had worn elongated. Did just enough welding to fill in the holes and then bored new ones.
One trick I am considering on my Model A build is to put some late model "D" washers on the frame plates to allow adjustment. May be something to think about for yours.
Mark

 

Go with it.. there is new cars and trucks that is 1/4'' off and running around..

your close enough not to worry..Sorry but I wouldn't slot ANY mounting holes on any Suspension mounting.. It's not needed..:nono:

 

new cars can run around 1/4" of an inch out because they HAVE slots to allow for adjustment. Just sayin'...

 

Actually Astro they have ZERO alignment on most every car made outside of toe. ZERO, you sometimes can shift a sub frame to rob a few tenths of a degree but not every time. Hardly any car these days has any adjustment at all for camber and caster.

Honestly, they aren't often out a 1/4 but they are out a lot more than the 1/32" we are talking about here. The tolerances on most every late model car is 3mm (about an eighth) and the full framed trucks are 6mm.

Brian

 

What I do is to scribe a centerline on the floor and then two lines perpindicular to the center line at the center of the axles. I then have a good reference point to check for square as I am building things. Sorry bout the spelling..

Sam

 

Yes, if the car is complete (body on) this is a very good way to check it. But with just the bare chassis it is much more precise to get direct measurements without all the plumb bobbing.

 

Thanks guys. I thought that the front axle was probably close enough. I just wanted to hear someone else say it.
The amount of expertise available on this board is simply amazing.
Thanks again. Now it is on to setting up the rear end!

 

Yes SIR! You are the man!

 

Has nothing to do with me being the man !!!! Just telling people the truth about how it should really be done.. Everyone has different ways of doing different things,, But slotting your mounting holes on suspension parts isn't the way you want to go.. If you do so,, Your asking for movement you really won't want down the road..ain: Sorry if you don't understand why..

 

The frame in question is not my first build. I built this one a year ago. It is also 4 bar front and rear. This one had infinitely adjustable bars. This is the reason for my confusion. The new one does not have infinitely adjustable bars, only adjustable in 1/18" increments. The incremental adjustment is what had me confused.

 

You just want to make sure when setting it up at ride height, it's as close as you can get it.. With adjustment both ways.. Then you should be ok..Good luck.. And sorry for taking this this far,, But people need to know..

Very nice car by the way...

 

alinment

one thing i learned the hard way.. my first bucket was wish bone front and rear.. what a pain to sq it up.. but most likely one and done.. my second bucket i still did wishbone on front and fully adjustable 4 link on rear.. it took maybe 15 minutes to align it.
if i every do another bucket i WILL have 4 link front and rear..
do yourself a favor and do all the alignment before u put the body on so u can square it alot easier.

 

That is a neat little car! VERY cool, looks like way too much fun.

Brian

 

Thanks Brian. Yes it too much fun! It is built with many of the parts from my retired late model dirt stock circle track car. Quickchange, wide 5 hubs, etc. 383 stroker with 450 HP and 2100 pounds. It can get very exciting.