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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2004, 09:54 PM
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Like Jim said, keep it cool. I've got an ac condenser on mine for a trans cooler. It's overkill but I have a Trans Specialties Big Shot 10HS converter that flashes to 3600rpm off idle with 3.73 gears. Even with the big cooler up front with an electric fan, the temps hover around 190 when I go for a ride in town.

Keep it cool.

Larry

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2004, 09:16 AM
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hi stall converter on the street

The selection of a converter has a lot to do with what you have for an engine. If you have a fairly light vehicle....which I assume the S-10 qualifies...and an engine that makes good bottom end torque, then you really don't need a high stall converter.

But if you have a small displacement engine with a really big cam and a single plane manifold or tunnel ram, then you have an engine that doesn't make a lot of low end oomph and you need the high stalll converter to allow the vehicle to launch with the rpm's up where the engine is starting to make some power.

On my own car, my engine makes gobs of low end torque so from a launching standpoint a high stall converter is not needed. However with a light street rod (I have a '33 Ford 3W coupe) and a higher than normal idle, the problem with a tight converter is when you drop it in gear, the car lurches forward. That's the only reason I put a higher stall converter in. Turned out that my initial converter was way too high. Rated by B&M at 2,400 it actually made closer to 2,800 or 3,000. This is because B&M's converters are rated at a specific torque output and the more torque your engine makes, the higher the stall will be. My engine was making a lot more torque than B&M's rated torque.

So when I changed to a 700 lockup, I had B&M make it from a totally stock 700 converter, which on a stock engine makes about 1,800 to 2,000 rpm stall. But in my car it is closer to 2,400 to 2,600. My car idles at 600 rpm so I could easily go with an even lower stall converter but I am running a stock one already. I suppose I could have it modified by bending the fins backwards to lower the stall but I am not up for pulling the trans out for that since it is working ok as it is.

Anyway, to recap, you may not need a stall converter if you have a light car and decent bottom end power and torque.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2004, 05:12 PM
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so the 2200-2800 stall with a tranny cooler (with a fan on it) won't end up toastin my tranny with the stop and go driving i am goin to be doing on a daily basis?
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Old 10-13-2004, 05:32 PM
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I would think you would definitely be ok as long as you have one of the fan units.

As mentioned before, I do like the B&M design cooler the best of all the ones on the market. I don't know if they offer one with a fan as I don't have their current catalog in front of me. But I seem to recall seeing that they had added those to their line.

When you say 2,200 to 2,800 stall, that's a pretty wide range of rpm. Are those the numbers given by the manufacturer?

2,200 is pretty streetable while 2,800 is pushing it.
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Old 10-13-2004, 05:48 PM
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yepp.. its an ACC Boss Hogg Nightstalker converter it says it stalls from 2200-2800
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2004, 06:10 PM
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They are probably giving that wide range to cover all the various ranges of torque output that the engine in front of it might be putting out.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2004, 06:24 PM
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here's the motor i think the duration of the cam is 274 Int. & 286 ex. Duration @ .050" is 230 Int. & 236 ex. It has been ground on a 110 Lobe center
i thikn thats what it is because thats the cam that comes in their 375 horse 327 and both of em have the same lift so im just guessing not sure yet

the big question is what stall would i expect to have with the 2200-2800. would i be able to run ACC's 1600-2200 stall with this motor?

CHEV 350/400HP
Hi Performance Balanced Engine
With Vortec Heads
1968-1985
This engine would be EXCELLENT for a non-smog Street/Strip car, Street Rod, or Pickup Truck. With 400HP @ 5000rpm and 433ft lbs of torque @ 4600rpm this engine has a rough idle and will run on leaded or unleaded 91 Octane pump fuel.

The balanced rotating assembly (typically includes crankshaft, pistons, rings, connecting rods, rod bearings, and balancer) featured in this engine:

3.484" stroke crank
5.7" forged big beam rods with ARP rod bolts
9 1/2 to 1 compression hypereutectic flat top pistons
More special features of this engine include:

Seasoned 4-bolt main block
Deck head gasket surface on block to ensure a good seal
New Hydraulic flat tappet cam with .490" valve lift
Vortec heads with 64cc fast burn combustion chambers and 1.940"Int/1.500"Exh valves to complement the high velocity port design. According to GM the Vortec head with it's raised port design outflows the bowtie heads right out of the box!
Hardened exhaust seats for use with both leaded or unleaded fuels
New 1.250" High performance springs set up to match cam
New High temperature valve seals
New Valve guides
New Full roller rocker arms
New Hardened push rods
New Perfect Circle rings
New Double row timing set
New High volume oil pump with welded big pickup screen and steel drive shaft and steel guide
New Revolutionary 1-pc design molded rubber oil pan gasket with load limiters to prevent over-tightening and higher temperature resistance than standard cork-rubber gaskets
New Brass expansion plugs
New Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Vortec aluminum intake manifold for use with squarebore carb (not included). This unique design seperates the hot engine valley from the air/fuel mixture for a cooler, denser charge and more power throughout the rpm range
All parts are painted separately before assembly for that show quality look
This engine comes completely assembled with oil pan, driver side chrome dipstick and tube, timing cover, harmonic balancer, valve covers, and an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Vortec aluminum intake manifold.


This engine is covered by a 12 month, 12,000 mile written warranty.
(There is no warranty when using a Blower, Turbo, Super Charger or NOS)

If you have any questions regarding this item please call us at
D&J Machine & Performance Engines
(602) 395-0800 Mon-Fri 8:00AM to 5:00PM MST
or email us at enginebuilder_1@yahoo.com


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2004, 09:26 AM
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Without seeing an actual dyno chart on this engine that shows the torque output at lower engine speeds it is very difficult to say exactly what stall speed you could expect from the 2,200 to 2,800 stall converter. My guess is probably about 2,400. What is the diameter of the converter? If it is an 11" converter I would say go for it. If it is a 10" converter, it is probably too much stall. My personal choice for your application would be an 11" Powerglide converter that has had the internal fins bent to provide a little additional stall.

Have you talked to the Tech people at ACC? They might be able to give you a better idea of how this converter would act with your engine.

Keep in mind that my personal preference is always to go a little on the conservative side, especially if this is a daily driven car. Some people can live with less than optimum everyday street performance and are willing to sacrifice that for more racy type output. I am not one of those guys. I like a fast, powerful car but it has to behave reasonably well if I am driving it a lot.

One other thing to think about. If the converter you choose doesn't suit you, you can always change it. I believe the ACC converters are relatively inexpensive and it's not that big a deal to swap converters if you are not really happy with your first choice. Obviously you want to try to make the most informed first choice you can, but I can tell you from experience that this is not easy to do when you are dealing with as many variables as you have with a modified engine and vehicle.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2004, 06:17 PM
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so u think i could just run ACC's 1600-2200 stall converter?

the guy that builds the motor told me it just needs a 2200 stall. he said some people even used a stock converter but he recommends a 2200 stall
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2004, 09:05 AM
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If it was me, that is what I would do.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2004, 12:18 PM
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I run a 3000 on a daily driver....I do run 2 trans coolers though.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2004, 05:50 PM
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If you want a good calculator go to Randy's ring and pinion's website Randy's Ring and Pinion
they have some great gear ratio calculators
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