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Old 08-25-2008, 04:32 AM
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stall or timing

K guys i finally got to take my cutlass down the road. And incase you dont remember what im running here it is
piston:KB119-.100 solid/-0.5 effective head volume w/ full floating wrist pins
Heads: stock 350 heads what ever came on the 69 chevelle 350, i think 76cc
Induction: holley 600 double pmper weiand accelerater intake
Cam: Lunati 300/300 adv. dur. w/ 515/515 lift bracket master 2
crank: eagle nodular, stock everything
rods:GM 5.7
deck: stock
fel-pro 350 overhual kit for gaskets, nuthing special
TH-400 stage 2
not positive on the gear, but i think its 3.08

my first mistake is that i have a T/C, i know i need around a 3000-3500 stall for that cam but i didn't have the money to buy one and i just couldn't wait to see what the motor was gonna do. bottom end it's a dog, I can't even get it to spin the tires, if i hold the brake. what do i need to do, keep playin with the timing? get a bigger carb, or is the stall my whole problem? Top end she'll fly, but it's just like i can't get any rpms out of the take off

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Old 08-25-2008, 06:20 AM
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10 in 3500 stall, 4.56 gears, locked out timing 34-36deg.

Cam should be installed advanced on a 100 to 104 intake C/L

The heads need to be ported. Don't be shy here. They are very marginal in stock form.
If you have a stock deck height (pistons is .025" below deck at TDC) your cr is too low.
Shave the heads .030 and reinstall with a thin felpro #1094 head gasket to get the cr up as close to 10:1 as possible.

If you made all these changes, it would go pretty good. leave any of them out and your going to be lacking.

If your not willing to run the other stuff that allows that cam to work, you'd be much better off with a much milder cam. eg Lunati #301A4LUN
and a dual plane manifold.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 08-25-2008 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:29 AM
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heads

what if i get new heads copletely, im looking into the summit 64cc chamber street/strip aluminum heads, 200cc intake runners and i think 70cc exhaust, but i also was thinkin of DART iron eagle's too which would be better?
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:33 AM
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locked out

what do you mean the timing should be "locked out" 34-36 deg. your talkin to a guy whos never even used a timing light before. I've always done it by ear, but this motor idle's so rough it hard to get it excact.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:49 AM
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your combo is all messed up.

you need at least a 4.11 gear and a 3000 stall. You are looking at $1000.00 match the engine to the car setup, plus the heads still suck and the compression is too low. 10 to 10.5:1 is what you need with 180 to 200cc heads.

do you self a favor and pull the cam and install a compcam 260H. It will run fine with the stock stall converter, 3.08 gears, and stock heads.

I would check those gears to make sure you don't have a 2.40 gear. What rpms is the engine turning at 60 mph and how tall are your tires????

If you are going to try to make a high performance engine then get a timing light and learn how to use it. Get a light with the degree knob on the back.

set initial timing at 20 degrees at idle (any more than that and the starter will not turn the engine over when warm). Then check total timing and it should be around 37 to 40 degrees. No need to use the vacuum advance with that big cam. If you do swap the cam for a smaller one then use the vacuum advance.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:17 AM
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I love that expression, "I just set it by ear"

A guy brought his pickup over and when he would step on the gas it would bog horribly...he said "I adjusted the timing and it didn't get any better, so that can't be it"

His timing was 120 degrees advanced, we moved the plug wires over one spot and turned the distributor as far as it would go and it straightened right out. He said "wow, this motor has always done that even in the old truck"

It was pretty obvious he had never touched a timing light before.

Last edited by Double_v23; 08-26-2008 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:44 PM
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timing

well guys, my timing has gotta be pretty close, it starts right up with a few pumps of the gas pedal. When it warms up to operating temp, i can turn it of and fire it right back up very easily without even touching the gas pedal. there is no "whamp......whamp....whamp..." sounds, it just fire right up every time and idles great. I may be off a hair but thats it if any. I ordered the stall for it 33-3500, should be to me in a few days. hopefully that will help a lot.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:54 PM
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I would also check those rear gears. With that cam and a high stall T/C a lower geared rear end will make a huge difference in take off. Plus you will be able to smoke those tires down to the rims.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:59 PM
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Also I have been "shown" how to set timing by ear but prefer to use a timing light. If you are going to set it without a timing light get the engine warmed up. Keep advancing the timing until it become hard to start. Then just back off until it starts up easily. The key is to find the point where you began fighting the advance and back away from it.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:41 PM
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advance

now if i'm standing in front of the car, looking down at the dist. cap to advance it i go clockwise past the #1 TDC set point, and retard is counter clockwise where its firing before TDC, or did i say that backwards, these 12 hour shifts and no sleep between a newborn and a hotrod is makin me retarded i think.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:01 PM
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when you advance the timing you are firing the spark before the piston is at TDC therefore you should be turning clockwise to retard and counterclockwise to advance timing.

If my little ones weren't sleeping I would firing my car up and check with a timing light to make sure. I was messing around with my timing the other day and pretty sure that's the way I had to turn it.

I know how these long days can be.
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