Stalling 350 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2007, 08:21 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: epoxy paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: California
Posts: 205
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Stalling 350

My total timing when I am in park is 36 degrees. When I put it into first gear my total timing goes to about twenty two. When I am in first gear and I press the throttle the engine stalls. Any suggestions???

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2007, 08:42 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: epoxy paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: California
Posts: 205
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Okay I just did some reading and I dont know what "total timing" is. When I am in park my timing gun reads 36. when I put her in first gear my timing gun says 22. When I touch the throttle the engine dies.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2007, 10:50 PM
Blazin72's Avatar
You got a leaky spark tube...
 
Last wiki edit: Rearend removal
Last journal entry: General Lee
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Union, WA
Age: 32
Posts: 2,868
Wiki Edits: 19

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Ideally your timing at idle with no vacuum advance should be in the range of 8-12 deg BTDC. Your total timing without vacuum advance (initial and mechanical) should be in the ballpark of 32-38 degrees BTDC. Newer cylinder heads with modern chambers can get away with less while older style chambers typically require a little higher. Your total timing is usually all in by about 2500 (?) RPM and you should not see that much at idle unless you've got the advance locked out like in a race application.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2007, 09:24 AM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,657
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 59 Times in 56 Posts
Check the mechanical advance in the distributor, I`m guessing it`s likely stuck in the open position or it`s been modified for a race application. Under the rotor button is where the mechanical advance is, see if it will move just by moving the rotor button, if it doesn`t move then it`s froze and you`ll have to free it up and likely disassemble it, polish and lightly lube the assembly to get it to work correctly.
With the vacuum advance unplugged and vac line capped, set the initial timing to 12 degrees before top dead center, then reconnect the vac line to a full time or manifold vacuum source, then recheck the timing, it should be in the area of 24-26 degrees. Then bring the RPM up slowly and watch the timing mark with your timing light, 36-38 degrees should be all in total by 3000 RPM. After assuring it`s set correctly and it has rattle or detonation, disconnect the vac advance and retard the timing 2 degrees, reconnect vac advance and test drive, repeat until rattle isn`t present.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2007, 11:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 134
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
You've either got a broken spring or very weak advance springs in the dizzy.
When it's showing 36* at idle the mechanical is all in or very close to it, when you pull it into gear the rpm drops and the advance goes away.

Inspect the distributor, replace the springs and reset the timing for 10-12ish at idle with no vacuum and 34ish at anything above 2500rpm. See what it does, if it still stalls look at the carb, stalling off idle is typically too lean.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2007, 01:10 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: epoxy paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: California
Posts: 205
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks guys! Im about to go work on my elky and I have an idea of where to start to get her running again. What you guys are saying makes perfect sense. I also read the forum "timing 101", its a great article and it ties in perfectly with what you guys are saying about mechanical advance. Im sure its gotta be the distributor now because I remember messing around with it to see how it works. I must have somehow locked up the springs or detached them in some way. Thanks again.
-Matthew
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2007, 11:39 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: epoxy paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: California
Posts: 205
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Okay well I checked the distrubutor. The springs are fine, I cleaned all the rust and lubricated the mechanical advance mechanism, I set the timing, and everything seemed to be perfect.......until I put it in drive....glug glug stall. and there is a massive oil leak from the front seel, smoke is coming from the drivers side valve cover, the crank pully bolt is stripped and the crank key is missing, ITS TIME FOR A REBUILD. Okay ive put it off long enough and I am far enough along on the body, wiring and interior to pull the motor out.

School starts monday I have Work everyday and I need a car but my bicycle will have to do for a few more months.

When I advanced the total timing to 56 degrees the car would actually move when shes in drive......imagine that.

Oh and another BIG thing. When I put my rotor back on the distributor I could not get it to go on the right way (by the way its HEI). I was trying to get it to face towards the number one cylinder terminal but it would not go on that way. I finally realized that it will only go on the other way facing the passangers side and slightly toward the headlights (at about the number five cylinder distributor terminal).

I thought to myself that maybe my distributor was so far spun around that the rotor was facing the wrong way. But I quickly realized that it couldnt be because my vacuum advance canaster was facing the right direction toward the passanger side.

Usually when things are this far off and screwed up its usually just because IM usually way off and messed up. Hopefully this is just another one of those times. But I at least know Ive still gotta save my pennys for a new 350 and maybe even a new Transmission and cooling system. I guess I wont be in my El camino as soon I thought I would have four and a half months ago. I only know that I know nothing and Im Living for the sake of learning.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2007, 11:51 PM
Blazin72's Avatar
You got a leaky spark tube...
 
Last wiki edit: Rearend removal
Last journal entry: General Lee
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Union, WA
Age: 32
Posts: 2,868
Wiki Edits: 19

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970Chevy
When I advanced the total timing to 56 degrees the car would actually move when shes in drive......imagine that.
That sounds like one of three things... Either the outer ring has slipped on the hub, the timing tab is incorrect for the balancer. Or, based on your comment about the crank key missing, the balancer has actually spun on the crank snout. That's exactly what the crank key is there to prevent.

With your current situation you really have no idea what your actual timing is.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2007, 07:15 AM
Holder350's Avatar
Auto Parts Professional
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Whitesburg, TN
Posts: 1,037
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I would get another balancer, and while you'v got the old one off, put the $3 seal in to stop the leak, and heli coil the crank. then find your true TDC and set your timeing from there. Even if your motor has quite a bit of blowby it should stil run fairly decently.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2007, 10:20 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: epoxy paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: California
Posts: 205
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thats what Ill do while I finish up the rest of the car. I'll change the balancer, replace with a new timing cover and crank seal, but how hard is it helicoil a crank? Im hoping that it is the bolt that just needs to be replaced because it seems, and ive been told, that its a pain in the ***** to helicoil a crankshaft. I am almost certain that this should get my elky running for a little while until I can afford a new engine for her. It seems that my timing is slipping because of th keyless pully and stripped bolt/crank. Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2007, 01:00 AM
Blazin72's Avatar
You got a leaky spark tube...
 
Last wiki edit: Rearend removal
Last journal entry: General Lee
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Union, WA
Age: 32
Posts: 2,868
Wiki Edits: 19

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Installing a heli-coil in the crank isn't too bad. Just make sure you've got the drill straight. I had to heli coil a crank earlier this year.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2007, 03:37 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: epoxy paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: California
Posts: 205
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
what was it that caused your crank to strip? I think that mine could either be the crank or the bolt, maybe both. With this problem as well as having the key missing, I think that this is what My problem could be and why my timing keeps retarding itself.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2007, 11:24 PM
Blazin72's Avatar
You got a leaky spark tube...
 
Last wiki edit: Rearend removal
Last journal entry: General Lee
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Union, WA
Age: 32
Posts: 2,868
Wiki Edits: 19

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The crank bolt stripped because I was trying to turn an almost 10:1 engine over with the spark plugs still in using a crank bolt that was too short. I ended up removing the pulleys, balancer and radiator then I bought a Heli-Coil set and drilled the crank out with the correct drill bit, tapped it with the supplied tap and threaded in a new 7/16-20 Heli-Coil. I used a longer crank bolt and have had no problems since.

If you have to do that to your crank at some point in time make sure you get a good Heli-Coil set. The first set I bought from NAPA was cheap and the tap just chipped to pieces, even with ample lube. I went to an industrial supply store and bought a set that cost almost twice as much and had no problems.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Distributor Tuning and Theory - Part 1 Rick WI Engine 35 04-26-2011 12:38 AM
Port or Full time vacuum cool rockin daddy Engine 129 10-05-2010 03:00 PM
Cam/Lifter Question about Ramjet 350 Jake Harsha Engine 20 07-07-2010 06:22 AM
Bog/Black Smoke on Olds 350 at 3000 rpm JohnTN Engine 4 03-17-2009 11:39 AM
348 or 350 delimma 62ImpalaSS Engine 12 05-17-2006 11:03 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.