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Old 05-04-2011, 01:24 PM
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Starter just makes a click most of...

I have read several post on this website and none seems to be quite the same problem as I have. Most of the time when I try to sart my Nova (350, auto) I get a click. Sometime it well start hot and cold. I have been driving this car for about two years almost daily. This problem just started about 5 days ago. I have replace the starter twice, I have a new battery, which is good and hot, I have replaced the battery cables. If I jump it or put the battery charger on it it well start. Also, I hooked up a temp. wire from the small post on the start (same post as the wire from the harness) and as I touch it to the positive post on the battery it turns over like it should. Please help, and thanks for reading my first post. R Nova


Last edited by R Nova; 05-04-2011 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:08 PM
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The fact that it cranks OK when you jumper the starter indicates that something is not making a good connection in the start circuit.
Ignition sw. , Neutral Start sw. , Bad wire connection somewhere.
Even if you here a click there may not be enough current to fully activate the starter solenoid.

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Old 05-05-2011, 04:51 AM
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Check your ground connections. Battery neg to ground. Engine to chassis ground. Etc.
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:06 AM
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If it clicks, you are activating the solenoid, but it does not have enough power to pop out and engage the starter. It could be a bad or loose battery cable (either ground or power), bad solenoid, or a solenoid that is sticking so much that there isn't enough power to move it.

Whenever I have had this problem it usually turned out to be a loose junction where the large battery cable connects to the starter. It loosens up and/or gets dirt in it over time, and eventually can't get enough current through to turn over the starter. Since you just replaced the starter, that should not be the case, but you never know. You might also try running a separate ground wire to the starter body, to rule out a grounding problem.

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Old 05-05-2011, 11:45 AM
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If, when you jump power to the to the small starter terminal, it turns over fine, then the problem is in the ignition start circuit somewhere. Check the voltage at that wire. Take that wire off the starter, put a VOM meter on it, and to ground, and have someone turn the key to start. You should have at least 12 volts, or a little more.

What year Nova? Stock wiring?
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:24 PM
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take the wire of the starter like crownver says. do a volt test on it and see what you have. if it comes up good, (at least 12 volts-whatever battery voltage is), you will have to put some kind of a load on the circuit, to simulate the actual starter solenoid. the volt meter doesn't actually load the circuit enough to tell what the potential for amps is in that wire. it could be pared down to a single little strand of wire somewhere and the volt meter would still say battery voltage. do you have anything to simulate a load? a spare headlight, anything? if you do, hook it up and see if your simulated load works properly, ie: the headlight is bright, (if that is what you used for a load). if you don't have something to use, then use a jumper wire from that starter wire over to a load on the car, like a heater motor or a headlight. something you know works properly. then when you turn the key to start that simulated load should run like normal, if not, then there is a problem in the start circuit from the ign switch, through the neutral safety switch, or clutch pedal safety switch if it is a standard,down to the starter. then start with the ignition switch voltage test first and work your way down. you could try to jump power to the starter wire at the ignition switch and if the starter works properly then it is likely the ign switch not supplying enough power, ie: bad connections in the switch. if it is an automatic car, try starting it in neutral, if it starts normal then maybe it is the neutral safety switch.
just some random thoughts,
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:43 AM
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Thanks everyone. It's a 1969 Chevy Nova. I believe I have narrowed it down to the voltage on the switch side of the starter solenoid. I did not remove the wire from the post, but what I discovered was 3+ volts of difference when it would/would not start. I'll check out the ignition switch today if there is time. Thanks everyone I would have not got this far without your help. R NOVA
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