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Old 06-15-2007, 09:43 PM
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started my project car (warning, import car stuff inside)

i put some air in the tires



started gutting the drive line



threw all this **** on the ground



have the new engine sitting in the driveway



luckily the tranny will be easier to pull off ... cause its got a lightening hole ... or is it speed hole?



screw independant rear suspensions !


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Old 06-15-2007, 09:44 PM
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hope my turbo is big enough





subframe is off, tomorrow ill liberate the transmission from the block

wiring harness was removed and put away till later, that will need a load of mods'

edit: and oh yea, looks like my custom bellhousing might also have an integrated midplate for mounting the engine. might have to build the front section of my roll cage early so i can mount the engine thru the fireall to that





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Old 06-17-2007, 09:33 PM
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What kind of an engine is that you are puttin' in there? Looks like a fun project.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:39 AM
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Is that a taurus SHO engine? thats all I can identify.
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxman267
Is that a taurus SHO engine? thats all I can identify.
3.0 sho engine w/ 60k miles

well the old engine and tranny are laying in the driveway

next stop is a quicky dangle of the v6 in the engine bay so i can mark the firewall for clearancing, and check some fitment stuff

then ill gut the front suspension,replace the framerails,do a temp reinstall of the suspension and see whats next

and i think the HVAC unit is going where the rear seat is, so i can still have heat / ac but be able to notch the firewall for the heads, which hang off the back of the engine pretty far. otherwise the front edge of the pulleys on the 3.0 will wind up the same place they were on the old motor .... and thats just to far forward for my tastes



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Old 06-18-2007, 11:33 AM
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Wow thats a pretty off the wall swap then. I'm all for doing swaps good luck with your build
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:44 PM
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yea, its a pretty od swap but it should be a fun car

2600lb's and a 220hp engine that can rev to 8500 with no probs (besides needing bigger cams
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:00 PM
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how much the heads hang off the back of the block, ihave to notch the firewall that much and more, because the water outlet willbe in the backnow, and i needroomfor that too

pack of cigs is against thee tranny bolt surface, and a pack of cigs is about 3.5" .... notice the bolt boss hangs out even further then the pack does



FRAME RUST !!! sawzall's fix everything

the second pic shows the lower section of the rail, which is almost as bad as it is under the booster

theres a decent sized holeunder the gas pedal also, but its an easy fix, only otherreal rust on the car is the pass side door in the middle of the panel. texas cars for the win. leaky maaster cylinders and screw on door gaurds for the loss





one more of the frame, showing the floor hole better


Last edited by lowROLLERchevy; 06-21-2007 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 06-21-2007, 11:41 PM
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Why are you ditching the 240's Independent rear suspension? If I'm not mistaken the factory differential can hold a very respectable amount of power and you wouldn't have to worry as much with twisting off the line. I know there are Smallblock Chevy guys running around with the factory diff.
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Old 06-22-2007, 08:42 PM
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this is far froman optimal rear end for the car, all the bushings are shot, everything is rusted, its the open diff, the weak axles, the struts are on the way out, and i would have to buy the control arm upgrades to get proper adjustability

by the time i got done upgrading the rear suspension all i would have left of the old stuff would be the crossmember, the knuckles and the springs

id much rather just throw in the FREE 8.8" ford rear end i have, which just got new 373 gears, anda full bearing kit, and the quadshock setup, and shocks,like 500 miles or so ago .... definanlt less then 1000 miles ago

then all i have to do is pull a set of 5 bolt axles at the junkyard, swap in racing wheel studs, and fabup my own caliper brackets for w/e size rotor is large enough and cheap enough

and then all i need are REGULAR coil overs and a stack of heim joints

ive already got all the tubing for the control arms (free)
ive already got precut tabs for the frame side pivots (free)
ive already got a load of frame material (free)
ive already got a bunch of plate for making brackets out of (guess the price,lol)

this rear suspension is so cheap id be stupid not to use it
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:19 PM
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How much boost are planning to run? This is a very interesting swap. An sr20 would be easier but everyone has those now.
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:29 AM
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boost is a trivial number for the most part

ill be looking at EGT's and RWHP ... ill just keep bumping the boost / water injection till i cant get anymore power out off the enine
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Old 07-20-2007, 05:48 PM
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some gutted interior parts, dash bar is laying on the other side of the car (will be replacing that with a roll cage bar)



the bare firewall, including the removal of the factory sound deadening, which was just laying in there, no longer attached like it should have been


close up of the drivers side. i will need to remove the brake pedal / steering column mount by drilling out the spot welds, relocate the master cylinder to the left, modify the gas pedal, then modify the bracket to hold the modified brake pedal, install the cage, notch the bracket, and then reweld it around the cage bar (fun)


see the pedal cable coming thru the firewall ? see the center line of the master cylinder .. now look at the top of the firewall, that marker line (juuust above the brake lines) is the edge of my cylinder head :bloated:



and here's the inside view of the same section, notice how much of the pedal / column bracket is in the way



when i get the carpet out ill lay out my firewall / tunnel / floor cuts using some fine line white tape to show what I'm planning before i make my cuts ... pics when i get to that ...
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