[Huskerboy2]

I have a '68 Chevy truck. The truck sat for awhile and now when I go to start it, the starter wont disengage. I have to jump out and disconnect the battery to get it to stop.

I first replaced the ignition switch, since that was easy. I replaced it with an NOS ignition switch. It didn't help at all.

Next I pulled the starter. I took it to Napa and it bench tested o.k. I heard they can still be bad when they bench test o.k., so I took the original starter in to get a rebiuld and a new solenoid.

I installed the rebuilt starter and the problem still occurs.

I'm out of ideas here. I wouldn't think it was a shimming problem, since this is the original starter that worked fine on the truck at one time.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

[Jmark]

Try to narrow it down a little for me here.

Does it keep cranking after you turn the key to start, then back to run?

Or does it stop cranking but stay engaged in the flywheel?

There is no relay between the switch and the soloniod so that won't be a problem.

There should be a large purple wire going to the "S" (start) terminal on the solonoid. That wire goes directly to the neutral safety switch (automatic) or maybe to a switch on the clutch pedal, then up to the switch. I assume this switch is dash mounted? and not in the column?

I've seen this before and it's always been EITHER the switch sticking inside OR the solonoid sticking, keeping the contacts "contacted" inside.

When it's doing this, have you tried smacking the starter with a hammer? I've done that before and it will usually stop cranking. At that point I know the solonoid is toast.

Let us know what you find.

Mark

[F-BIRD'88]

Look at the starter bendix drive gear shaft and starter nose cone. There should be a small bushing on the shaft to limit the travel of the starter gear bendix.
If that shaft bushing is missing, the starter bendix will over extend and won;t return when you release the ignition key from "start" to "run". The starter gear will stay meshed with the flywheel unless you wack it with a hammer.

[Jmark]

Another thing came to me this morning. If the car is a "points ign vehicle", there will be a small wire on the "I" terminal of the solonoid. "IF", somehow, that wire ended up on the "S" terminal along with the cranking wire, it will cause the same problem.
On a points vehicle, that wire sends full battery voltage to the coil to aid in starting. If it ended up on the "S" terminal, once you start cranking, it will be sending 6 or 7 volts TO the solonoid and that is enough to KEEP it engaged when you release the key. Once the car is off, it's not enough to activate the solonoid, but will keep it going once engaged.

Mark