starter only grinds with super coil plugged in - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 09:48 PM
jls4speed's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: ct
Posts: 63
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
starter only grinds with super coil plugged in

starter grinds when coil plugged in. when i unplug the coil, the starter runs fine, no grinds or anything. my buddy sold me the motor and i threw a cam in it. im thinkin at this point he gave me a really high compression 350 and he didnt realized how sweet this motor really is. ive never had a problem like this before. all i know is that there was a big block starter on it before he sold it tto me. im rrunning an accel super coil on the motor with a stock replacement starter. after pulling my hair out and exchanging in 4 starters ive realized its grinding only when the coil is plugged in and im actually starting the motor (but actually not starting because of the grind). ive picked up on this only because i refuse to start a car on jack stands so i test the starter after i shim it with it up on jack stands with the coil unplugged. once i get it right, im like thank god and then i plug in the coil and it grinds the fly. it seems like when the coil is plugged in it only engages partially. help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:02 PM
SSedan64's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Macon, GA.
Age: 50
Posts: 6,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 46 Times in 46 Posts
Coil internally shorted? Polarity reversed?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:09 PM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Sounds to me like voltage loss due to underized wiring or wiring that has broken strands which would give the same symptoms as undersize wiring . It definitely sounds like the coil is robbing voltage that is needed for the pull-in windings in the solenoid . A quick way that I would check it would be to hook up a remote starter button and turn the key on and see if it cranks and starts like it should using the remote . Please let us know what you find . It may be as simple as a bad ignition switch ?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:15 PM
jls4speed's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: ct
Posts: 63
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
nothing has changed withn the wiring. its been my daily driver as of last week when i blew the motor. ive never had a problem. all i did was put a new motor in. would a simpler solution be to put the big block starter in it or a high tourque? the only reason i ask is because thats what he ran and they draw less to work right. i think this motor is running sum serious compression
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:20 PM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Well if everything is good electrically and the timing is right , I did see on here lately where someone suggested a switch to interrupt the igniton untill you get the engine spinning . A simple toggle switch inline on the coil wire would do it .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:59 PM
jls4speed's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: ct
Posts: 63
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
what happens if you have the tiny ign. wire on the wrong prong? like if its on the r prong lets say would it even work? from wat ive read, the s is for hei and the r is for points. im not able to get under the car but if they are flip flopped would this be why
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 05:52 AM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jls4speed
what happens if you have the tiny ign. wire on the wrong prong? like if its on the r prong lets say would it even work? from wat ive read, the s is for hei and the r is for points. im not able to get under the car but if they are flip flopped would this be why
The starter would not even attempt to engage if you had the wire to energize the solenoid on the resistor bypass terminal . The R terminal on the starter is not to be used with anything other than a point type ignition . The R terminal is used to bypass the resisor to give 12 volts to the points during engine cranking only. I assume were are talking a Delco starter here . You only need the battery terminal which often times is also used as a junction for main power feed wires and one wire on the S terminal to energize the pull in windings on the solenoid . The wire for your igntion shoud go directly from the ignition switch to the coil without any resistor wire or resistor as long as you are not using a breaker point ignition. I have had to do a poor man's repair on these solenoids before so I am aware of the inner workings . I still would check it out using a remote starter button . There could be some broken strands in the wire going to the S terminal and the insulation still look good . I have seen it happen before . Seriously .

Last edited by adantessr; 09-29-2010 at 05:59 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:05 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
FWIW, if your buying rebuilt starters from the auto parts stores there is no difference between a big block and a small block starter, they are all the same to the re-builders.. IF you think you have a high compression engine that is easily checked with a compression gage. I am suspecting you have an electrical problem with wiring.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:06 AM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
FWIW, if your buying rebuilt starters from the auto parts stores there is no difference between a big block and a small block starter, they are all the same to the re-builders.. IF you think you have a high compression engine that is easily checked with a compression gage. I am suspecting you have an electrical problem with wiring.

Vince
The starter would not even attempt to engage if you had the wire to energize the solenoid on the resistor bypass terminal . The R terminal on the starter is not to be used with anything other than a point type ignition . The R terminal is used to bypass the resisor to give 12 volts to the points during engine cranking only. I assume were are talking a Delco starter here . You only need the battery terminal which often times is also used as a junction for main power feed wires and one wire on the S terminal to energize the pull in windings on the solenoid . The wire for your igntion shoud go directly from the ignition switch to the coil without any resistor wire or resistor as long as you are not using a breaker point ignition. I have had to do a poor man's repair on these solenoids before so I am aware of the inner workings . I still would check it out using a remote starter button . There could be some broken strands in the wire going to the S terminal and the insulation still look good . I have seen it happen before . Seriously .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:37 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Adantessr why did you quote me in your reply?

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 09:25 AM
bubbahotep's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NYC
Age: 42
Posts: 487
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Without knowing the timing and cam specs the solution will be difficult to find

its no longer a stock motor, so chances are a stock starter might not have enough torque to even spin the motor properly. Cam was changed, timing should have be changed and recurved etc etc

disconnecting the coil has made an ignition kill switch for you, easy cranking with no ignition. Assuming the car does eventually run then I doubt it's a bad coil

could be a dead or low battery, is it charged?

Please, check the timing. I had this identical issue, posts on here, and resolved it 100% because of the replies I got
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2010, 01:25 PM
vicrod's Avatar
life is a ride
 

Last journal entry: 2014
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Telford, PA
Age: 71
Posts: 1,326
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 56 Times in 52 Posts
Make sure the distributor is firing on #1 cylinder, compression stroke.
Make sure the timing is not too far advanced.
Are you sure the cam timing chain is installed correctly?

vicrod
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Looking for info on selecting an Ignition Coil Argess Electrical 30 08-05-2010 01:20 PM
84' 350 SBC Starter Problems Gokussj5okazu Engine 8 05-14-2007 05:16 PM
Ignition Coil resistance Question Old School Nut Engine 3 06-11-2005 03:36 PM
Accel HEI Super coil question Jag Daddy Engine 3 05-31-2004 11:31 AM
is the accel hei super coil good? LoudMalibu Engine 4 06-20-2003 08:52 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.