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Old 01-15-2003, 11:39 AM
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Red face Starter problem!

When I go and try to start my car, it just clicks. So originally I thought it was the starter. But when I tried to push it and then pop the clutch, it just peeled out the back tires and it wouldn't start. After about 5 times doing this My battery was dying down so I had my brother jump it with his truck. While I had the jumpers on there I tried to crank it over and when I turned the ignition it sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't actually crank over. So after my battery was charged we tried to push it again but no luck. Now when I try to start it, it does the same click noise. Is it definitely the starter, or could it be the dist. cap or something else. Thanks

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Old 01-15-2003, 11:52 AM
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it could be your starter but it sounds to me like your engine is seized up, perhaps a cylinder is cracked and water in the bore is preventing the engine turning, try if you can have someone push the car bachwards and you then put it in a FORWARD gear, if that works then its off with the heads, if it doesnt its out with the engine
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Old 01-15-2003, 12:44 PM
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Question

[quote]
  • try if you can have someone push the car bachwards
  • and you then put it in a FORWARD gear,
  • if that works then its off with the heads,
  • if it doesnt its out with the engine
<hr></blockquote>



Uh...I think I lost something in the translation here.

You first need to perform a voltage draw test. On most newer cars, you must have full battery voltage to turn over and start a car. Usually a jump will not deliver the amperage as it did in the old days. You need to have the battery checked (deep draw test) and fully charged. You then measure the draw voltage on each component in the starting system until you find the open or determine it is a bad starter motor.

If you believe the engine is seized, you remove the spark plugs and try to turn the engine with a wrench at the harmonic balancer bolt.

Now, I realize that I haven't a advanced degree in automotive engineering, any factory certification(s) or have the fabricating skills that most have here. But a car that won't crank is not all that difficult to figure out.

I will now retire my opinion and wait for the fruit salad to be tossed... <img src="graemlins/pain.gif" border="0" alt="[pain]" />

[ January 15, 2003: Message edited by: KULTULZ ]</p>
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Old 01-15-2003, 12:57 PM
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sorry i might have been a little quick there... i just meant that if the rear wheels lock up when trying to push-start the car the engine is somehow prevented from turning. if this is because of water from a leakinh headgasket has accumulated on top of a piston in the middle of the compression stroke the engine is prevented from turning bu the very poor compressabillity of water , this can be checked bu rotating the engine backwards. if this confirms that a leaky head gasket is the culprit, then its off with the heads. If the engine is indeed stuck, well there is no other way out than to wank the entire powerplant and disassemble it to find and fix the problem.. better??
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Old 01-15-2003, 01:36 PM
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My 49 FORD flathead had a cracked block and would seize up. I would have to pull the plugs to clear the cylinder and then start the car. It ran fine till it was parked then I had to pull the plugs and clear the cylinder again to start the car. I think mechanics call this problem hydrostatic lock.


Todd
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Old 01-15-2003, 01:58 PM
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That sounds like a lot of work just to get started! Is that anything like beating the starter to get it started because I was too lazy...I mean too busy to fix it?
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Old 01-15-2003, 03:34 PM
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I don't think that the block is cracked. It ran fine a month ago and I've kept it in the garage since then. I've only started it up a few times in the past month.
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