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Old 07-01-2004, 10:05 PM
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Starter Sizzle, No Start

So my 82 el camino 350 wouldn't start tried charging the battery and it wouldn't charge so i put a charged one in it and hooked it up and the starter sorta sizzled and smoked, won't start turnover ,nothing, no elctronics at all.

So I put in a new starter and i still have no electronics, no start nothing.

What do i do?

Thanks

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Old 07-02-2004, 11:56 AM
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check the fuses.
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Old 07-03-2004, 07:29 AM
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Chevy uses a common pont for the power to the fuse panel. Usually this point is the positive side of the horn relay (if used). They also had a splice point that served the same purpose. The splice is inside the harness and comes from the positive terminal of the starter. This is detailed on the MAD Electrical web site.

http://www.madelectrical.com

Vince
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Old 07-03-2004, 04:34 PM
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Fuseable link

[color=lightblue]Doc here


Sounds like you have a Starter or Solenoid Short. And now the Fusible link between the main start cable and Ignition is blown. replace the link and jump it to the main Battery Cable from the starter., should Bring the power back on line, then test the starter / Solenoid for short before hooking it up again ....

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Old 07-06-2004, 01:15 PM
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Fuses are ok.

It's an 82 and I can't find the horn relay/buss bar/split that are described in that website.

The wires from the starter are loomed and go thru the firewall right by the power brake booster. I can't find them on the other side. It looks like right where they come thru is a white plastic harness plug block.

Any advice. Is there still a fusible link on 1982's, is there still a splice or anything else like that?
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:32 PM
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Wink

Some Chevys have their fusable links right off the starter. Start with these, especially if you heard a sizzle.

After that, check with an ohmmeter to see if you have a shorted starter. It sounds like you have a dead short somewhere.

The next logical place to look for a short is the alternator. Disconnect it and check both the alternator and the attached harness for shorts. If the short is on the harness side, the alternator is likely fine. The short will be on the wiring side of things. Look for obvious burn marks or chaffed wires. The short could also be under the dash, so don't skip this spot.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:06 AM
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Fuseable link

[color=lightblue]Doc here

When you installed the Charged Battery and it "Sissled" The Fuseable link Did it's Job..... Isolated the SYSTEM from the Short.

Backtrack the wire that comes from the main Terminal Bolt on the starter (Not the Battery Cable, but the Smaller red wire on the same terminal) until you find the Fuseable link... most likely it has gone out on you. These Burn up usually on a Major System Dump.IE High Current Devices That Short out...


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Old 07-07-2004, 06:26 AM
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won't start

Hey Doc, if the fuse link were blown, where's the sizzle coming from, sounds mor like a short. Is the sizzle a frying sound? How about a meter between the battery post and the cable ( neg. side) and turn the key, see what kind of reading he'd get.
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:13 AM
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I love the smell of insulation in the morning...

[color=lightblue]Doc here

The Sizzle would have been the Starter Solenoid/Starter motor, which Gets it's power Directly From the Battery Via The heavy un~Fused Battery Cable...Probably Shorted at / through the solenoid to ground or stuck in full "Out " position...

Quote:
[/color][color=gold]So my 82 el camino 350 wouldn't start tried charging the battery and it wouldn't charge so i put a charged one in it and hooked it up and the starter sorta sizzled and smoked, won't start turnover ,nothing, no elctronics at all.

So I put in a new starter and i still have no electronics, no start nothing.
[/color][color=lightblue]

When he put in the Charged Battery, It probably took out the link on the starter going back to the IGN switch, Which would account for the loss of Electrical.

When he replaced the starter, he probably removed the Source of the Short.

The reason he has no starter now..., is he has no energize wire for the Solenoid, (Brown wire) Because the link is open.

He Could Jump that with a screw driver and it would probably turn over. Although, Not run.(longer then Secondary Will support it.)

If the Starter were the source of the short before, Now replaced, Will show Nothing other than normal resistance through it to ground.

If you measured Back through the system, Either Positive or negative, With an open link, It will not read anything except things that weren't wired through a link (which shouldn't be anyway) Because the link is OPEN and the Circuit is incomplete.

A Real Simple test, is just run a wire back to the main Fuse Buss from the positive Side of the Battery, To any FUSE that Say's IGN or ACC on it... IF the lights, Instruments and Radio ect Come on, The link is blown. DO NOT TRY TO START IT THOUGH!! You can overtax the fuse buss on Cranking....

So basically, The logical chain of events Would be,

although we all go on conjecture here since only one of us is actually looking at the problem...

Starter Solenoid or Starter Shorted out, Draining battery, and blowing the link back to the Ignition / Fuse Buss.

The Battery Would not charge Because There was a draw through the Starter to ground Because it was bad... (unfused heavy cable on solenoid) OR maybe because the Battery was just gone...

Starter Now replaced, Short has been removed, Battery is now holding Charge, Smoke and Sizzle Stopped, but Electrical is now dead Because the link is open shutting off power to the rest of the car..

At least that's the way I think it happened...or something very similar.... Only repair and a report back will we know for sure. Interested in hearing the outcome!

Doc
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Old 07-07-2004, 01:26 PM
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won't run

Doc got any ideas, 92 s10 blazer, thinks it ran out of gas. Put in 4 gals. poured some in the t-body and it cranks (STARTS)for a few seconds. He says he done this a good dozen times, but it doesn't prime itself back. sounds like fuel pump, what you think. Guess I go down tomorrow if he doesn't get it goin. 4.3 ci thanks
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Old 07-07-2004, 04:55 PM
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Won't run

[color=lightblue]Doc here:

Try, Check the Fuel pump Fuse, see if it's Blown. (assuming Electric Fuel pump)

I'm Also assuming you have Fire at the Plugs as you said it "Starts on Prime" Right? If not, on a TBI you need to go in another Direction.

If Your Fuel pump fuse is good,

Check Fuel filter's for Clogs and try again.

Check your Fuel pressure
(It has to be Spec on TBI for Injector to push it..)

If No Fuel, then pull the pump, check to see that the pump is not defective or the filter Screen is not blocked.

IF you have Good Fuel pressure and Flow at the Pump, Then go back to the Fuse panel, look for a Fuse marked Injectors, Check it for open.

If the fuse is good, Go to the injectors and test with a meter or "Node" Light, Should be +12 volts on one side, and a low, 3 to 5 volt signal on the other. If this is present,

Pour fuel and/or Start Fluid down the Body throat to Ensure it runs on "Life-support" If it does not...

Check the Fuses marked "Computer" and "ECM"... If those are good, check the Injectors for resistance through the coils, should be the same, and not "0"...If one is more than the other, replace it.
(they use a common 12 volt Source and can draw upon each other if one goes bad)

Check against a new one for resistance, the parts guy should let you do that.

If not, Check for a Reference pulse Back from the ECM, If that's Missing, replace the ECM.

That should get you running.

Let me know how it works out...

Doc..
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Old 07-15-2004, 07:59 PM
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I have just started college, so I haven't had a chance to work on it. I've looked at the diagrams someone posted but mine isn't set up like that. Remember it's an 82, where would i look for the fusible link?

Thanks a lot
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Old 07-16-2004, 12:30 AM
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link locations

[color=yellow]Doc Here

Most common locations would be from the main bolt on the starter, a 10 gauge red , along that wire, or any of the small gauge (10 ga) red wires coming away from the battery into the Car.

Doc
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Old 07-16-2004, 04:32 AM
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fuseable link

look along the firewall \, from the master cyl. buster toward the passinger side of the fire wall. It'll look like a not or connection. You'll have to cut it out to replace it its not like a plug in or screw in unit. lol
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