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Old 08-20-2008, 11:13 AM
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Starter woes

Im working on a ground up budget build 68 RAt Rod chev p/u with new 327 new wires to starter. I have a 168 tooth flexplate , headers, and the starter is off a 98 chev suburban I one had. the starter is a Gear reduction starter its an offset bolt pattern. I am having fits trying to get this thing to mesh up right it engages and turns the motor over which is not running right now but will not dissengage all the way I just went and picked up some shims and added 1 at atime it seems to get alittle better but still will not fully disengage. I have no money for another starter so i need to do my best to make this one work. Thanks, Colter


Last edited by Colter; 08-20-2008 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 08-20-2008, 09:19 PM
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I am having the same problem. I have a stock starter. I posed the same ?'s u nhave and was told to shim it down so 1/8 inch between gears when meshed. I already had it shimed with one 3/8 flat washer on each bolt and still hung up a little. My motor is also not running yet and I think if it was to syart that the flexplate would kick out he starter gear and it would be fine. I will try to get the correct shim and set it to 1/8.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:18 AM
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I had a similar problem and it just needed more shims. I had 2 starters with seemingly identical aluminum mounting blocks but when I took the blocks off and measured, it turned out that 1 block was over 1/8" longer. That means that starter needed less shims and the other needed more.

Keep shimming it away from the block. Mine was going into the flywheel and getting jammed. Id go under the car and see the gear stuck in the flywheel and have to bang it out.

Or, check to see that starter is not crooked. It might be that the gear is going sideways (slightly) and getting wedged.

My current starter has a good 3/16" of shims on it. I just keep adding them.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:35 PM
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I had the same problem with a new starter, not rebuilt, and turns out that the problem i had was with the way I had it wired. I run a Hot Start system that uses the Ford remote solenoid and that makes only having the battery cable running down to the starter. As it was, I had the wires that should of gone to the s terminal on the wrong post. I changed the 3 wires around and now my starter pulls the bendix back as it should. I was essentially keeping the voltage to the bendix energized. Mine was not a shim issue at all as some had pointed out and I had the necessary clearance between starter pinion and flexplate. I had to open up my wire harness for the starter to find and identify the wires for the starting system.
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