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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2007, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,

Nice Clean Job!!

Sorry to hear the pump turned nipples to the sky... Hopefully It isn't too hard to get to and replace..)


Let us know it the new pump solves the problem.

Doc
Thanks!

It's easy to get the pump, just order it from JEGs, which I did.

But with nothing to lose, I took the old one apart last night. It's actually a very simple device internally. Pretty neat. So I took it apart, cleaned everything up, lubed up the moving parts, but it back together, bench tested it, and it spins up just fine!

There is a shaft in there that drives a rotary type pump gear, I think after being off the car for a month, it kinda just dried out and couldn't break itself free.

So I'll put it back on this afternoon and see if I can get the beast to fire up.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2007, 03:38 PM
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Doc here,



KEWL...looks like you saved yourself about $125...If it works under pressure OK. Fire that beast up!!

Doc
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:43 PM
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Yeah, more like $175. I think it's working fine because it sounds exactly like it always did when it's pumping.

Although now I have yet another issue. The car is really testing me on ALL systems. First no starter startin', then no pump a pumpin' now no spark a sparkin'!

I am getting no spark, or sometimes a very, very weak spark. I pulled a plug, grounded it to the block and cranked it over, and can only see a very faint spark sometimes.

Standard HEI ignition. The cap/coil and rotor are new. I tried putting the old cap/coil back on, but no change.

I am getting 12V at the BATT terminal on the cap when the ignition is on.

No other test run yet, ran out of time.
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:45 PM
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BTW, Doc, just found this post of yours and will go through it.
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:51 PM
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One thing, though, is remember, I had a problem with the starter. While it now turns over the engine fine, I notice that while cranking, my voltmeter drops down to around 10V.

But the Ammeter does not show much change.

Does this sound OK? Is the 10V while cranking indicative of a weakening/bad starter, which is not leaving enough power to trigger the ignition? Or is 10V normal?
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:59 PM
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Also, I need to recheck to make sure my spark plug wires are correctly installed.

But that shouldn't cause a weak/no spark problem, should it?

If all the wires were going to all the wrong cylinders, sure, the car wouldn't start, but if you pulled one of the plugs out and grounded it, it should still spark, correct?

Also, if I pull the plug, and connect a jumper cable to the treaded part of the plug, and ground the other end of the jumper cable to the chassis or the engine block, I should get spark when cranking, correct?

Last edited by Porschev; 02-15-2007 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschev
One thing, though, is remember, I had a problem with the starter. While it now turns over the engine fine, I notice that while cranking, my voltmeter drops down to around 10V.

But the Ammeter does not show much change.

Does this sound OK? Is the 10V while cranking indicative of a weakening/bad starter, which is not leaving enough power to trigger the ignition? Or is 10V normal?

Doc here,

You will have Voltage drops while cranking...10 volts is a bit on the low side though..Maybe charge up the battery a while..The Starter is not wired through the AMP gauge (That much current would smoke the gauge shunt!) So don't worry about that , it won't be accurate...

Not being up on Porsche Systems, Does that use a ballast resistor or resistor wire? If so , it has to go...HEI won't like it..

Doc
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:34 PM
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Not sure on the ballast resistor thing - but remember, this car ran like a banshee for 14 years on the current setup, and I did not make any changes to the ignition system during this project (other than replace the cap/coil and rotor).
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschev
Also, I need to recheck to make sure my spark plug wires are correctly installed.

But that shouldn't cause a weak/no spark problem, should it?

If all the wires were going to all the wrong cylinders, sure, the car wouldn't start, but if you pulled one of the plugs out and grounded it, it should still spark, correct?

Also, if I pull the plug, and connect a jumper cable to the treaded part of the plug, and ground the other end of the jumper cable to the chassis or the engine block, I should get spark when cranking, correct?
Doc here,

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2, is the order as you probably know, Direction of rotation is clockwise, # 1 is traditionally on the 5 to 7 O'Clock tower. BE SURE the dizzy seated all the way AND the rotor IS turning!

If you have mis-wires, I suspect you'd hear backfire, but no start could happen.

BE SURE you have a good ground to the engine..

TO test the system, just run a wire direct from the battery to the coil + wire and see if it will start, If so you have wiring problems, not ignition..(you'll need to pull the jumper to stop the engine, it bypasses the ignition..)

If you don't get fire, Measure the coil, inspect the rotor carbon pick up, If good, pull the module and have it tested, when replacing, don't forget the heat-sink grease, or you'll be doing it again very soon!

Yes, In fact I use a portable metal vise with a ground jumper, to test plugs, It works very well, and you don't get bit!

Doc
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2007, 04:59 PM
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Cool project.

What transmission was used?

Where is the radiator and fan?

vicrod
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:14 PM
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The transmission is a 5 speed out of an '80s 911.

The radiator and fan are up front in the front trunk! The bumper and front bulkhead are cut out to allow airflow, which vents through the wheelwells. The coolant lines run under the car to the engine.

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Old 02-16-2007, 04:43 PM
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Cool project.

Is there room for you?

Exhaust must sound sweet.

vicrod
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