Startin up an engine been sittin' awhile - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 08:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Startin up an engine been sittin' awhile

Okay, to start off the engine is in a 72 courier. Its not the original engine. It's a Ford V6. Looks to me like a 1980's mustang engine. Not quite sure of the size or year. I was planning to start it up, it's been sitting roughly a year maybe even two.
I know a few of you guys have started up an engine thats been sitting a long time. Maybe even more than a few.

Already:
Planed to replace carb, distributer and spark plugs oil/lucus oil stablizer.
Radiator is full.
Tranny fluid full.

Thanks in advance.
-dan

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 08:48 PM
BORTI's Avatar
BLOWN 357
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN PEDRO
Age: 43
Posts: 126
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
engine start

Sounds like its ready to fire.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 08:51 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,405
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts
I'v woken up a lot of old engines... change oil, points/ condensor if it has them.. clean up carb a little.. hot start in the carb and fire it up
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 09:00 PM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,658
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 60 Times in 57 Posts
After you fire it up, do exactly as you would breaking in a new engine, raise the rpm to high idle, around 1800 RPM or better, then lower it down a few minutes, then back up again. Neglecting to do so will almost ensure the cam will go flat. Always cycle a sitting engine as you would a new one.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 09:21 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
I'v woken up a lot of old engines... change oil, points/ condensor if it has them.. clean up carb a little.. hot start in the carb and fire it up
No A/c condensor. What is hot start?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 09:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
After you fire it up, do exactly as you would breaking in a new engine, raise the rpm to high idle, around 1800 RPM or better, then lower it down a few minutes, then back up again. Neglecting to do so will almost ensure the cam will go flat. Always cycle a sitting engine as you would a new one.
What does it mean to cycle an engine?
Run it at 1800 RPM for how long?
Run at normal for how long?
I've never broken in a new engine,
if you've got any more info on that
ya should let me know.

THANKS GUYS!
-dan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 07:24 AM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,658
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 60 Times in 57 Posts
Cycle it means run it at around 1800 rpm for about 3 to 4 minutes, then raise it to about 2200 rpm for the same amount of time, then back down to 1800. do this in a 20 minute time span. Keep your eye on coolant temps and oil pressure. This assures oil splashes everywhere it needs to. seen many engines sit for a long time then refired without being cycled, in almost every case the cam went flat.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 07:54 AM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,405
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurbs
No A/c condensor. What is hot start?
Starting fluid... not an A/C condensor, I'm talking about the condensor for the points ignition, if it is points ignition that is
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 11:11 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
Cycle it means run it at around 1800 rpm for about 3 to 4 minutes, then raise it to about 2200 rpm for the same amount of time, then back down to 1800. do this in a 20 minute time span. Keep your eye on coolant temps and oil pressure. This assures oil splashes everywhere it needs to. seen many engines sit for a long time then refired without being cycled, in almost every case the cam went flat.

I've never done this before but that really seems pretty straight forward. I have no idea if the RPM gauge works, is there an other way to make sure its at 2200?

Also should I be running 10w 30 or 40? *oil*
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 11:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
Starting fluid... not an A/C condensor, I'm talking about the condensor for the points ignition, if it is points ignition that is
How will I know if it has points ignition?
Where will the condensor be found if I do indeed have one?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 11:50 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 65
Posts: 4,110
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
you don't have points or condenser...last points motors were around 1970

buy a clear plastic $5 gas filter and mount it at the fuel pump tank line inlet hose to catch the scale that's in the gas tank....

better yet use your 2gal lawn mower gas tank with fresh gas and a bit of carb/injector cleaner added and hook it up to the fuel pump inlet with a hose...

start the motor with the rad cap off...once warmed up there should be a "river" of coolant flowing telling you the thermostat did open...then put the cap on....

my $.02
a lighter wt oil (5W30) cleans better and faster because there is more gpm thru the motor....change the oil and filter after the 30 minute test drive

put your batt on a charger before trying to crank it....

kill the power to the ign so you can just crank the motor repeatedly for 30 seconds with one minute in between...about 5 times....that will pump oil to the valve train which is bone dry and wet the mains and cam bearings

once it does start just rev the motor 5 times...that throws oil onto the cam shaft

no need to replace anything till you know for sure it is broke if it has been sitting just a year!

if it's running at least "ok" after it's warmed up go for a 30 mile drive varying the mph..."all the fluids" need some "exercise" after sitting for a year and driving does that

hopefully the gas tank is low on fuel so you can just fill it up with fresh gas and let the motor burn out the now diluted stale gas

ps: if the plugs are easy to remove do it....before you do the repeated cranking to circulate oil...less load on the starter and the motor cranks faster throwing alot more oil to "prelube" the motor
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 12:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
you don't have points or condenser...last points motors were around 1970

buy a clear plastic $5 gas filter and mount it at the fuel pump tank line inlet hose to catch the scale that's in the gas tank....

better yet use your 2gal lawn mower gas tank with fresh gas and a bit of carb/injector cleaner added and hook it up to the fuel pump inlet with a hose...

start the motor with the rad cap off...once warmed up there should be a "river" of coolant flowing telling you the thermostat did open...then put the cap on....

my $.02
a lighter wt oil (5W30) cleans better and faster because there is more gpm thru the motor....change the oil and filter after the 30 minute test drive

put your batt on a charger before trying to crank it....

kill the power to the ign so you can just crank the motor repeatedly for 30 seconds with one minute in between...about 5 times....that will pump oil to the valve train which is bone dry and wet the mains and cam bearings

once it does start just rev the motor 5 times...that throws oil onto the cam shaft

no need to replace anything till you know for sure it is broke if it has been sitting just a year!

if it's running at least "ok" after it's warmed up go for a 30 mile drive varying the mph..."all the fluids" need some "exercise" after sitting for a year and driving does that

hopefully the gas tank is low on fuel so you can just fill it up with fresh gas and let the motor burn out the now diluted stale gas

ps: if the plugs are easy to remove do it....before you do the repeated cranking to circulate oil...less load on the starter and the motor cranks faster throwing alot more oil to "prelube" the motor
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
What is "scale"?
My gas tank is empty and not installed.
Thats a great way to tell if the thermostat is working! (thank you)
How would I go about cutting power to the ign?
Leave them out when I crank it? wont that throw oil all over my engine compartment?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 01:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 78
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
When I start a motor that has not been run is some time, I do all the things mentioned already, Tune up, oil change, fuids etc. However, I also pull the plugs and put about a cap full of oil in each cylinder and prelube the engine by removing the distributor and using a drill with the correct socket to turn the oil pamp shaft. You can also do this by just cranking the engine w/o the coil wire attached so it doesn't start (as mentioned above). I prefer the drill way though as nothing is moving until everything is lubed up. This way the motor has oil throughout prior to starting. I also usually turn the crank with a breaker bar just to get the cylinder wall lubed a little after adding the oil in the spark plug holes. It will smoke a little at start up, but it will stop quick after the oil burns off. Also, when you changed the oil filter, did you fill it with oil before installing? (basics I know, but you never know) Just a little extra insurance.

Good luck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 01:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: visalia calif
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by coda618
When I start a motor that has not been run is some time, I do all the things mentioned already, Tune up, oil change, fuids etc. However, I also pull the plugs and put about a cap full of oil in each cylinder and prelube the engine by removing the distributor and using a drill with the correct socket to turn the oil pamp shaft. You can also do this by just cranking the engine w/o the coil wire attached so it doesn't start (as mentioned above). I prefer the drill way though as nothing is moving until everything is lubed up. This way the motor has oil throughout prior to starting. I also usually turn the crank with a breaker bar just to get the cylinder wall lubed a little after adding the oil in the spark plug holes. It will smoke a little at start up, but it will stop quick after the oil burns off. Also, when you changed the oil filter, did you fill it with oil before installing? (basics I know, but you never know) Just a little extra insurance.

Good luck
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would I need a drill to turn the oil pamp shaft or could I use a wrench?
I have done nothing to this truck YET. Still in the planning stage. Good thing too, I didn't have any idea about all this info... Im still a newb Shh!
(dont tell anyone) ha ha.
I didn't know to fill the oil filter before installing. So I really dont mind hearing the basics.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 02:02 PM
curtis73's Avatar
Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
 
Last wiki edit: How to find cheap parts
Last journal entry: Found an LQ9 today
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
Age: 41
Posts: 5,173
Wiki Edits: 16

Thanks: 7
Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts
WAIT!!!!!

Now that I got your attention Definitely pull the distributor, buy an oil priming tool ($15) and spin the oil pump for a few minutes with a drill. Over the years, all the oil has drained out of critical places and you need to get oil in there before you hit it with the starter.

Also, pull the valve covers and using an oil can squirt oil on the cam lobes if you can. The cam lobes rely on oil slung from the crankshaft. They get little or no oil from anywhere else. They are a heavy friction area and running it before you get oil on those lobes can wipe them flat in one revolution. In normal operation when the car only sits for a few days or weeks at a time, enough oil remains on the lobes to be fine for the next startup, but when it sits that long you have direct metal to metal with no oil on the lobes.

Cam lobes for flat tappet cams are much like an egg hard on the outside, soft on the inside. They are made of relatively soft cast iron and the surface of the lobes is hardened. Once you score the surface of the lobes its all over.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
setting points on sb chevy frackster66 Electrical 23 01-07-2014 05:50 PM
the history of chevy v8's savman1 Hotrodders' Lounge 43 03-02-2012 06:57 PM
1973 Chevelle Malibu Engine Rebuild (pics 56k no) Malibu73 Hotrodders' Lounge 39 11-04-2008 12:37 PM
Engine....whats it worth? chevyusa1 Engine 6 06-11-2007 06:43 PM
Why high RPM's on the oval tack? steveyb4342 Engine 25 05-23-2007 07:50 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.