Starting body work- help requested!!! - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:28 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Starting body work- help requested!!!

Now that I got your attention- thank you all for a great and informative website! This is my first post here- wanted to get some answers before I dig in too deep and get in over my head. BTW, found your site on another forum.

I am working on a 77 (early) Ford Bronco. It was a crawler for a while and has its share of scrapes, dings, and dents. I don't have much body work experience (other than piddling with it). After reading the info on the SPI paint forum about their epoxy, I'm considering using it. My plan is to sand to bare metal, pound some dings out, epoxy prime, fill, prime, then epoxy prime again before top coat. From their website, it sounds like not much (if any) sanding is required. Is this accurate? Also, can the epoxy be laid on the bare metal and left for a month or so before body work is done without changing that strategy?

A few questions. The body is dented. How close do I need to get it (how much bondo is good vs. bad)? Some of it was filled already and I've run across about 1/4" of it in spots.

Next, should I take it all to bare metal? Why or why not? I have been using aircraft paint stripper and then a DA with 100 grit. I'm concerned about the aircraft stripper screwing with the new paint. What is the best way to neutralize it? I am planning on using the water based SPI prep-sol.

I am planning on replacing this tail light bucket as it is dented and the metal behind it isn't straight. I'm not sure that it is able to be fixed (by me) without fixing the metal behind it and then welding a new bucket in place. Your thoughts?

Finally, I plan to do the mud work and priming here. I just have a few HF HVLP paint guns. Nothing fancy, nor do I have a way to keep the dust/gnats out of the finished product. Do most paint places make me use what they want, or can I bring paint/material to them? Not looking for something super fancy, nor will I spend 100's of hours on it. I do plan to try and get it pretty flat using a long board, but I don't really need it to be perfect. It will see trail use.

Oh, and who makes a good filler? I have used some that don't harden well, others that don't spread well, and I always seem to get air bubbles in it- my fault there. Do you guys mess with any sort of glazing compound/icing overtop of the bondo? Any tips are welcomed!!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 001.JPG
Views:	55
Size:	64.8 KB
ID:	70826   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 002.JPG
Views:	51
Size:	67.4 KB
ID:	70827   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 004.JPG
Views:	59
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	70828   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 006.JPG
Views:	51
Size:	65.4 KB
ID:	70829   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 008.JPG
Views:	49
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	70830  


    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:33 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here is another shot of that 1 tail light bucket. It is pushed both forward and in toward the tailgate. One fender was pretty clean and came out decent. It will need some attention though. The other fender had previous dent repair done, as did one door. The repairs still had about 1/4" of bondo over them. What to do...

Some more pics:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 010.JPG
Views:	56
Size:	67.5 KB
ID:	70831   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 011.JPG
Views:	50
Size:	68.8 KB
ID:	70832   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 013.JPG
Views:	49
Size:	65.7 KB
ID:	70833   Click image for larger version

Name:	Body Work 014.JPG
Views:	41
Size:	67.2 KB
ID:	70834  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:59 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,226
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 38
Thanked 125 Times in 121 Posts
The big deal is being patient and being mindful of how the metal moves when pounding out dents. A shrinking disk can be your friend when try to get those last little dents out..As far as leaving it in epoxy until you get aroudn to painting we do that all the time. I shoot for no more than a 1/16 fill and use Marson Platinum filler when I need to..Just me as otheres may have thier input..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 11:15 AM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,005
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 556
Thanked 217 Times in 196 Posts
I totally agree. understanding how metal reacts is key. i see way to many guys coating stuff then getting out their pecking hammer after each coat...it's not guide coat! or they'll find a stretch and shtink it before working dents out properly, which will usually tighten it back automatically. I've tried both ways and when you properly work the metal all you coats will be thin, which means less pinholes underneith.

I notice when I try to half arse the metal work I will over work myself in filler, and remember, there's no dust fixing metal. I've also noticed I too will be pecking away between coats and at times just to get it right you will be taking away some of the true shape.


so take your time in metal. you can shrink it, stretch it, bend it, and cut it. in practical terms when you pull up a dent you should already know where the brow is that surrounds it. you want to roll your metal out not just yank it up with your pins, this is NOT how you fix it right. what i mean is push your lows up while you are pushing down on your highs. the damage is like that cause it reacts to impact like a drop of water in a bucket. the general rule is work the dent in reverse order of how it occured.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to tech69 For This Useful Post:
cyclopsblown34 (01-30-2013)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 12:01 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,005
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 556
Thanked 217 Times in 196 Posts
you will probably want to get a stud gun and if you get a stud lever is a great tool for studs and helping you roll out the the damage. It keeps your other hand free to hammer down while you are pulling up. I use this on about 95% of all small stuff I'm pulling up on with pins. I rarely use the slide hammer stud guns come with anymore.
Amazon Amazon
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 05:24 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a HF stud gun. Never tried the stud lever. I'll have to check into it. My metal working skills are horrible. Guess I have to start somewhere.

Another note. The grille that I have appears to have been stripped chemically. I don't know if the stripper was neutralized. It almost looks like it was just left there. Most of the grille was bare metal, but some paint is left. Now it is a mess of surface rust and leftover paint. What would you all recommend to do? The grille has a lot of hard to reach areas. Thanks all.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:30 PM
bk005's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Edinburg, Texas
Age: 35
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Im rebuilding body on a 77 currently to, and just finished putting on new tail light buckets. That one is going to be some work, Id weld in some angle iron braces to the inside of the bed corners for bracing, and then start trying to pull out that bucket, and the inner corner that is bent as well. The newer replacements are ok but the lower rolled lip that meets the cuarter panel bend/curve does not perfectly line up. If you change buckets, then I would put new lower quarter panels on while your at it to.


I still say strip it first see whats bent and rusted, and try and use original if possible.

Good Luck.




n








Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 05:12 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,005
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 556
Thanked 217 Times in 196 Posts
never tried those lil clamp thingies you have holding up your sheet metal, but I have been curious about them. Seems like they set you up with a nice gap.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 05:21 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 711
Thanked 1,078 Times in 961 Posts
That's the problem, you don't want the gap. The larger the gap the more the metal moves. They "work" yes, but if you want to learn metal shaping metal finishing you don't want to use them.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 08:03 PM
bk005's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Edinburg, Texas
Age: 35
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I only use them for set up and when Im holding a gap that needs to be larger than normal. I myself like a bit of gap in the metal, after it cools its going to suck up and when I weld acorss all the curves across a quarter like that it could be bad news. Plus I have to take them and grind the clamps surfaces flat before using them, they not very square, and if you use them when you shouldnt can screw you up more than they help you.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:42 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,083
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 61
Thanked 90 Times in 76 Posts
I really like the Marson Platinum filler too. I also use Evercoat EZ Sand for a glazing putty to fill in small pin holes, scratches, etc as needed.

The epoxy can sit indefinitely, but after 7 days needs to be lightly sanded if you want to apply anything to it. If recoating or applying within the 7 day period then sanding is not necessary.

Don't exceed 1/4" of filler, and stripping to metal is always my preferred choice but is a lot more work as well. It depends on how you want your final product. If you're going over an area that doesn't have any filler on the original finish, you could do some light sanding then epoxy without going down to bare metal.

I used to use those butt welding metal clamps too. Did them on my quarter skin seam, but we all know how that turned out...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2013, 10:11 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,005
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 556
Thanked 217 Times in 196 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
That's the problem, you don't want the gap. The larger the gap the more the metal moves. They "work" yes, but if you want to learn metal shaping metal finishing you don't want to use them.

Brian
I also don't like too much gap as it will want to burn away but I also don't want it completely touching cause one side of the panel will either want to go high or low, and it will be apparent when you grind your welds away. But you can help it out by stretching it back to avoid the metal bunching up. I'm never afraid to ask the questions so that's why I'm asking, metal master.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2013, 06:13 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the advice so far all. I haven't been working on the body a whole lot but am still sanding away on panels.

Another question: I plan to paint this thing a stock color. Atomic orange as found on the 07-08 Corvettes. In the past I've used Omni or Nason. I don't really need a high dollar finish. Yeah, I know that you guys do things the right way here, but any advice as to what to get for materials? I'd like to be in it for about $200 for base and clear. Not sure if that is even possible nowadays. It has been a while since buying paint.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:02 AM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,005
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 556
Thanked 217 Times in 196 Posts
you might as well go single stage if you want to budget.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 12:02 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: dallas texas
Posts: 182
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 56
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
before ever applying body filler to bare metal, make sure your metal is straight as possible... all high spots are knocked down .... better to have small in-dents then dents that poke out (outtie's) then use your entire hand to rub over the entire body panel to make sure all waves, dents, dings are fixed... whats worst is to apply body filler then 5 inches down from the work area there was another dent lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
starting with the body model-a Body - Exterior 8 01-03-2013 10:29 PM
v8toy starting body work on bug v8toy Introduce Yourself 4 01-11-2012 01:54 PM
Starting work in the right place.. ryork Body - Exterior 1 11-17-2009 10:12 AM
Lill Bit Of Body Work And Chassis Work... h0trod389 Hotrodding Basics 7 05-23-2007 07:12 AM
Starting some interior work. Magnus_Jager Interior 6 04-08-2005 11:09 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.