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Old 10-03-2005, 08:17 PM
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Starting to convert

i am soon going to convert my 1951 ford custom deluxe from a 6v car to a 12v car and i was wondering what other things i might need to help me get through all of this ..... soo far all i have is the wiring harness but what else should i do or use to make this go as smoothly as possibal thanks for all everyones help

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Old 10-03-2005, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51FordDuff
i am soon going to convert my 1951 ford custom deluxe from a 6v car to a 12v car and i was wondering what other things i might need to help me get through all of this ..... soo far all i have is the wiring harness but what else should i do or use to make this go as smoothly as possibal thanks for all everyones help

Doc here,

Things you will need for the conversion will be:

All the Lamps, This includes Dome and Instrument lamps.
Heater Motor,
Starter motor,
Wiper motor: (if not vacuum, and if so, you might want to consider the upgrade to electric, OR at least run a Vacuum canister to retain Vacuum of idle)
Instrumentation : (or you could retain stock, and run a resistor)
Coil : (If not HEI)
Radio : (if Stock, and you want to retain the "Retro Look" you can run it off a resistor)
Charging system : (Generator to Alternator) and regulator if external.
Horn relay and horns,
Turnsignal Flashers, (the 6 volts won't play in the 12 volt harness)

Also inspect any remaining switches for dirty, burned or pitted contacts or wear, and repair or replace as needed.

While The motors will run at 125% of rated voltage, their service life will be dramatically cut by doing so..

It is HIGHLY advisable that ALL motors be replaced or shunted with a proper resistor, (except the starter, which is too high a draw to do so..)


As to the install itself, you need a GOOD controlled output soldering station and 50/50 rosin core solder to do a pro job, you can get by with a 40 watt pencil iron, but must be careful about overheating...

Shrink tubing and an 1800 watt heat gun are a must, (if you have ton's of time, you can use a hair dryer..but don't expect immediate results! )

Good Quality Auto strip strippers with depth gauge..

Good quality Crimp pliers (not the ones you get at the drug store in a kit for $7 bucks) Amphenol or molex...

Sharp Diagonal pliers various sizes and angles..

Flush cut pliers...

Get wire ties, adel clamps, anti Chafe material and grommets as needed everywhere the harness rubs against metal, and a good spray adhesive to attach it with OR Pliobond (at ace , 6 bucks a bottle..GREAT stuff, same as the manufactures use!) Any and all Hardware, screws, bolts washers, nuts and locks you may require, AND DON"t forget the star washers!! Everywhere you make a ground connection, burnish all paint and grease from the area.

Get a roll of Ground bond strap (cheap At rat shack, like 6 bucks a roll) and put a strap from each fender to frame, The radiator to the frame, the hood to firewall, the doors to door posts, the gas flap to the body, the trunk to the body.

Hook your ground as follows:

Your ground should be set up as such,

The battery cable ground to any handy bolt at or near the starter.

From there, get a battery cable that has 2 ~3/8 ring terminals on it ($6 bucks at wally mart or auto parts place) and ground that to the frame..

From the engine block ground at the starter, run 2 ~#10 wires, the first to the firewall, and the second to the alternator ground lug or mount bolt...

USE proper Star washers, Sheet-metal screws / bolts and locks, and burnish ALL the paint and grease from the grounding areas..this will give you a rugged reliable grounding system that will most likely outlast the car...

If you acquire these tools, and follow the instructions you will have a system that will work flawlessly First time for many years to come with no problems at all...and install like a breeze, (depending on your skill level, from one day to a weekend)

READ AND FOllOW all the harness maker's instructions BEFORE you begin and understand them in your sleep! make your plan..

MAKE notes or Digi photos for future reference and compile a schematic for your rod after your done..(you'll be glad you did someday!)

Also Don't forget any high current items (25 amps and over) that will be run (like electric cooling fans or power seats, seat heaters and older convertible top motors) Should be run on relays to insure the greatest degree of safety and current delivered to the load.

Let us know, Good luck!

Doc
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Old 10-08-2005, 06:57 AM
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I am going to be starting very soon. Now i am gatering up all of the materials. But i was thinking about this, what should i do about the original tail lights they have the 2 wires that pluged into the original harness can i use these original wires and have those plug into the end of my new harness. or do i need to get new lights ? Or can i use the orginal wires but just make shure that i change out the bulbs to 12v ..... any and all help would be great
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Old 10-08-2005, 07:57 AM
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Lamp bases

Doc here,

Just order a few of these for $2.99 ...



Fits Niehoff sockets - PS34201, PS34241, PS34271, PS34301, PS34341, PS37811 & PS37831.
For bulb #'s: 63, 67, 81, 89, 93, 1003, 1073, 1129, 1133, 1141 & 1156.

From Checker, Kragen or Parts america...

Or go here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...number=PS34021

To order online...

Just wire these new inserts direct...

Doc
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:12 PM
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I am going to be getting a new front end because the frame rails are week and when you turn the steering when the frame twists some before the wheels even start to turn. should i wait to start all of my wiring until this is finished? what about the overdrive will i be saying forget it or do they still make all of the parts in 12 volts? also what about the brake light what should i use a pressure switch like the old one that screws into the brake cylinder i know that this is alot but i have alot of questions
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Old 01-21-2006, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51FordDuff
I am going to be getting a new front end because the frame rails are week and when you turn the steering when the frame twists some before the wheels even start to turn. should i wait to start all of my wiring until this is finished?
Doc here,

It would easier to do while the front end is off, you'll have much more access then with them on..just be careful when you go to welding , you don't accidental burn a harness bundle.



Quote:
what about the overdrive will i be saying forget it or do they still make all of the parts in 12 volts?
Do a search of the Knowledge Base here, There is ONE thread (I have seen in 2 years) that actually covers that , and a link as to where to buy the parts..


Quote:
also what about the brake light what should i use a pressure switch like the old one that screws into the brake cylinder i know that this is a lot but i have a lot of questions
Why Not? Better access than up under the dash on the pedal shaft.. make it easy on yourself!

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Old 01-21-2006, 11:14 PM
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I would like to thank you docvette for all of your help with all of my posts i have a question for you i dont know if u have an answer for this and plus it is in the wrong section but. what about paint i am going to be painting my car when it gets warmer out do i have to strip all of the old paint down to the metal? or sand the paint down as best as possibal, what paints would work the best for a flat black car, and where would you get this paint at i dont know if u have an answer for this and i would like to thank you for all of your help
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:00 AM
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Doc here,

While body is not my strong suit...let me see if I can give you some direction..

IF you can afford it, on a Car that Old, A Body OFF resto is the way to go, Pull the body and send it to the sandblaster's..Takes about a half day to get it done, and it comes back as raw metal.

The reason I say that, on a Car that old, Rust is a prime factor to a good structural resto and a good finish..(even if Rat rod black..)With all the paint stripped you can find all the rust, and bondo and remove it or replace panels as needed. AND you have a Good clean surface to work with for paint.

If that is a bit outside the budget, There is chemical strippers available to buy that will do a fairly good job..But you STILL have to remove all the stuff from the car, especially rubber and plastic parts, the stripper will melt them.

Another option is get a Commercial water blaster, you can rent from the rental place that puts out about 3000 Psi, and blast the paint down to bare metal, again glass and other parts must be removed. (you can end up with glass that looks like a a bathroom window)

Once you get it to bare metal, remove all old bondo, and cut out rusted out spots, weld in new panels (you can buy fairly cheap) and merge the edges , prep for paint.

At least two good coats of good primer are in order and sufficient dry time between sanding and re-coating. Usually by the 2 nd sanding it's ready for Finish..unless you have some wowies in the body/primer..

I buy my supplies through an Auto body supply house, because I own my own company, they give me a 20% Discount there, and no tax..Not being a chemist or body man I usually explain what it is I am trying to do, and let them guide me on products and services..



(Sorry for the crappy pic, It looks better before it gets here, and IS smaller, don't know what's going on..)

This Corvette, I rescued off the Back of a flatbed on the way to the crusher 4 years ago, within minutes of it's departure..

Then it had Virtually no paint to speak of (Fiberglass black), AND what white was there had the consistency of talcum power, and a shine duller <--Is that a REAL word? maybe More Dulitorious SP?..would be better..) Than Forest Gump.. that oxidized..

With My suppliers Advise & help, this was the result about 6 months later..Including the pinstripe and vents which I did myself.

NOW I drive this car daily AND get lots of folks complimenting it's looks..

So you Can do it yourself! See if you can find a supplier near you that will help and advise you..

And when it Starts to get you down..Remember this photo:



NOW THIS IS A REAL CHALLENGE....(or a parts car! )


Doc
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Last edited by docvette; 01-22-2006 at 01:15 AM. Reason: Cuz I CAN!
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Old 01-22-2006, 04:29 PM
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You do NOT need to replace the wiring harness or any of the switches.

You will need to replace the generator with a 12 volt alternator.

The starter can be reused but the solenoid will need to be 12 volt.

The ammeter should work OK.

Replace all bulbs with 12 volt.

You will need a voltage reducing resistor in series with each of the remaining 6 volt accessories such as;
Heater fan, Wiper motor, fuel gauge etc.

Resistors are rated in power (WATTS) and resistance (OHMS). For example, The resistance will be 1.5 OHMS to reduce 6 volts at 4 amps. The power can be determined by measuring the load of each circuit you will be converting.

Connect an ammeter in series with the load and set it for 10 amps. Multiply the reading (eg. 4 amps) x the 6 volts. This gives you 24 watts. The resistor you will need must be rated for at least 24 watts. 25 watts is a standard size.The resistance will be determined by dividing 6 volts by (eg. 4 amps) = 1.5 OHMs.
So in this case you will purchase a 25 WATT, 1.5 OHM resistor.

Note: resistors get hot. Make sure it's mounted in a ventilated place away from things that melt.

Mechanical guages are not affected except the bulbs.

For more info check out www.oldengine.org/unFAQs

Last edited by vicrod; 01-23-2006 at 01:04 PM.
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