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Starting problem

1K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  super_silent 
#1 · (Edited)
:confused: I have a 66 Beaumont, 283 that I just bought a couple of weeks ago. Took it out for the first time the other day, drove for about 40 minutes to a friends place and when I was leaving the car wouldn't start. I thought it may be a hot start problem, ( car has headers ) we jump started it and drove it home.
After it sat I tried starting it again and it barely fired up. today I tried again...same thing and it eventually went completely dead. I jump started it and once I pulled the cables off it died. The alternator looks to be brand new.. battery mfg date is feb 2005. If I had to guess I would say alternator.
Any thoughts ??

Thanks
 

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#2 ·
starting problem

hi, when it doesn't start what happens? does it just click or is there nothing at all. do you have a volt meter. if you don't you should pick-up one up. you can spend allot or a little on them. if your not that familiar with them just get a cheap one. it's the only way to test for alternator problems. NEVER take the battery cable off when the engine is runnig or you will have an alternator problem. get a volt meter and i can help you find the problem quite easily.
 
#3 ·
I would start by remoiving the cables, having the battery charged, clean the cables and re-install battery.

Start it and check the voltage across the battey with teh car running, it should be 13.8-14.4 volts or so. If it is less than that the alternator probably is not working.
Make sure the belt is tight. If everything looks mechanically sound, take the alternator to be tested. That is probably an externally regulated alternator so you could also have a regulator issue. I know there is an easy way to full field the alternator to see if it works and to prove it is a regualtor problem. I dont have that info handy but I am sure it is on this site somewhere or Doc may remember. I know it involved disconnecting the regulator and jumping 2 terminals together.

I dont think you have a heat soak issue due to the fact it will start with a jump.
 
#4 ·
Yes, Start with a voltmeter test first with engine running.

I do have 2 smallblock chevy trucks with aftermarket exhaust. One had a pipe too close to the solenoid and after a few years, the solenoid cooked after a towing job. That one did not do anything at all when the key was turned to start, even with a jump.

The other one had the pipe too close to the main part of the starter, and after 10 years of towing, it was cranking very hard on a hot restart, finally getting real bad.

I built heat sheilds for both after fixing the starters.
 
#5 ·
The car seemed fine pulling in and out of the garage until I took it for a 45 minute drive,had to jump start it as it just made a clicking sound when trying to start, then I had problems starting it since. While I was driving the car back home I noticed the turn signals were blinking very slowly.(they worked fine before) It would turn over and would not start until I released the key...then it would fire up and when I turned it off the battery became weaker and eventually no interior light, no clicking when turning over...nothing. I jump started with jumper cables but once it was running and I pulled the jumper cables off it would die. The car has new heavy guage battery cables and everything is clean and tight. I pulled the alternator off last night (Bosch) and will take it in to get tested today. I do have a volt meter but didn't know where to start.
Thanks everyone for all your helpful advise !
 
#7 ·
Update

I took the console out of the car right after I bought it to replace the carpet and found a switch hidden inside the console that you access by putting your finger in the shift gate. I had no idea what this switch did and wondered if it had something to do with my problem, so I called the guy I bought the car from a few minutes ago and he told me it's a kill switch !!

Thanks again everyone.
 
#9 ·
I will definitely check with a meter when I get home. I'm assuming this switch somehow cuts power on the alternator (which is useless as a kill switch) Is there a way to check when the alternator is charging ?? This switch has no on or off on it, it's a home made setup by the previous owner.
 
#10 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

FIRST: Let me just mention..

NEVER, NEVER remove a battery cable from a running Vehicle!!!!!

AT the Very least..you can destroy the alternator..AND (if the diodes are defective) Destroy Every Electronic Device in the Vehicle.. The battery, EVEN DEAD, is a buffer against the raw AC from a malfunctioning Alternator..like a "Firewall" against 60 Viruses a second!

YOU have a Distressed Battery (low state of charge) That is Gassing H2SO4, and removing the cable causes a big spark..The H2SO4 WILL explode..with enough force to rip the front end off your car, and to KILL or injure you..and leave PAINFUL acid burns for many months..

THAT being said..

Charge the battery for 6 to 12 hours on a home charger at 10 amps..



After some "Settle time" With a DVOM, Set to DCV, VX20 or higher Scale, measure across the battery with your meter. It should read about 13.95 Volts..Less than that you probably have one or more bad cells..Take it and have it load checked, If you have a bad cell, it will fall off rather rapidly.

ASSUMING the battery is good..Start the car..At a WARM , CURB IDLE, (about 5 minutes warm time) WITH all loads off..(Domes, heater,AC and the like)measure across the battery, With a DVOM set to DCV, VX20 or Higher scale, It should read 13.95 to 14.4 Volts, Less than 13.95, you have (or will soon to be having) Alternator Problems..

Take it and have it tested, (Be advised, half those guys at the auto superstores get fired from Mac D because they couldn't run a register with pictures of a burger and fries.milkshakes..and so on..) In fact I'd just skip the test and rebuild it with a rebuild kit .. only about $15 fazools..and once you get it cleaned and degreased at the coin~op wash..takes only about an hour of your time to build..and you'll have a better unit than you can buy over the counter today..





NEXT: Be sure (pre 1970 Cars did not have Factory fuse links installed, BUT one may have been installed during an upgrade or later service) That The alternator output wire is in tact all the way to the Battery buss point..(usually the starter solenoid Battery Cable terminal, or the B+ terminal on an external regulator, Or at the power wire of the horn relay)

IF a fuse link was installed, you'd find it there..you may have to unravel tape to find it..Check to see if it has 12 volts "Static" at the output of the alternator, If not the link is open. Repair / Replace as needed.

BE Sure the Alternator has a Ground wire (10 gauge Black) attached to the ground lug, and run to the vehicle grounding buss system...

IF you don't have a Ground buss system, I suggest you install one. Let me know, I'll give you the directions..(ALL Cars eventually need them over stock)

GUT OUT the hacked KILL switch...It has no purpose except to cause other problems..IF you need one, let me know, I'll give you instructions for a relay activated kill system that is proper.

IF you car cranks BUT won't start, until "just" when you let off the "Start" mode of the ignition..(And your Car has points) Sounds like the Secondary Ignition is missing..

This wire comes from the "I" or "R" terminal of the starter solenoid (closest small terminal toward the fender side) and goes Straight to the Coil + terminal..

Chances are the "Hack" that installed the kill switch hit this line instead of the Ignition power wire..this wire provides direct battery power to the coil when cranking (when the rest of the car goes off..)

That should make it all good again..

If you need more instructions (Ground buss, Kill system) Just post back, and let us know how you make out.

Doc :pimp:
 
#11 ·
Doc,

Thanks very much for the very detailed info, I've read many of your posts\responses in the past and I appreciate
you taking the time to explain this. I will put the alternator back in the car when I get home tonight and start charging the battery like you said. I think I mis-represented my earlier post, I removed the jumper cables and the car died. I didn't remove the battery cables from the battery. I will post back once alternator is back in, battery is charged and switch is removed.
Thanks everyone ! This place is a lifesaver !
 
#12 ·
Ok.....I put the alternator back in, charged the battery (meter read 13.98) started car and let it run until it was warm, reading at idle was 12.82. The guy from the alternator shop told me to place a test light on the "I"
terminal of the alternator and ground it. When he did this in his shop while testing the alternator it had power but it doesn't on the car. I also removed the switch ( was spliced in between starter and a brown wire in the wiring harness on firewall) Could the regulator need replacing ??
 
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