Doc here,
imp:
FIRST: Let me just mention..
NEVER, NEVER remove a battery cable from a
running Vehicle!!!!!
AT the Very least..you can
destroy the alternator..AND (if the diodes are defective)
Destroy Every Electronic Device in the Vehicle.. The battery, EVEN DEAD, is a buffer against the raw AC from a malfunctioning Alternator..like a "Firewall" against 60 Viruses a second!
YOU have a
Distressed Battery (low state of charge) That is
Gassing H2SO4, and removing the cable causes a big
spark..The
H2SO4 WILL explode..with enough force to rip the front end off your car, and to KILL or injure you..and leave PAINFUL acid burns for many months..
THAT being said..
Charge the battery for 6 to 12 hours on a home charger at 10 amps..
After some "Settle time" With a DVOM, Set to DCV, VX20 or higher Scale, measure across the battery with your meter. It should read about 13.95 Volts..Less than that you probably have one or more bad cells..Take it and have it load checked, If you have a bad cell, it will fall off rather rapidly.
ASSUMING the battery is good..Start the car..At a WARM , CURB IDLE, (about 5 minutes warm time) WITH all loads off..(Domes, heater,AC and the like)measure across the battery, With a DVOM set to DCV, VX20 or Higher scale, It should read 13.95 to 14.4 Volts, Less than 13.95, you have (or will soon to be having) Alternator Problems..
Take it and have it tested, (Be advised, half those guys at the auto superstores get fired from Mac D because they couldn't run a register with pictures of a burger and fries.milkshakes..and so on..) In fact I'd just skip the test and rebuild it with a rebuild kit .. only about $15 fazools..and once you get it cleaned and degreased at the coin~op wash..takes only about an hour of your time to build..and you'll have a better unit than you can buy over the counter today..
NEXT: Be sure (pre 1970 Cars did not have Factory fuse links installed, BUT one may have been installed during an upgrade or later service) That The alternator output wire is in tact all the way to the Battery buss point..(usually the starter solenoid Battery Cable terminal, or the B+ terminal on an external regulator, Or at the power wire of the horn relay)
IF a fuse link was installed, you'd find it there..you may have to unravel tape to find it..Check to see if it has 12 volts "Static" at the output of the alternator, If not the link is open. Repair / Replace as needed.
BE Sure the Alternator has a Ground wire (10 gauge Black) attached to the ground lug, and run to the vehicle grounding buss system...
IF you don't have a Ground buss system, I suggest you install one. Let me know, I'll give you the directions..(ALL Cars eventually need them over stock)
GUT OUT the hacked KILL switch...It has no purpose except to cause other problems..IF you need one, let me know, I'll give you instructions for a relay activated kill system that is proper.
IF you car cranks BUT won't start, until "just" when you let off the "Start" mode of the ignition..(And your Car has points) Sounds like the Secondary Ignition is missing..
This wire comes from the "I" or "R" terminal of the starter solenoid (closest small terminal toward the fender side) and goes Straight to the Coil + terminal..
Chances are the "Hack" that installed the kill switch hit this line instead of the Ignition power wire..this wire provides direct battery power to the coil when cranking (when the rest of the car goes off..)
That should make it all good again..
If you need more instructions (Ground buss, Kill system) Just post back, and let us know how you make out.
Doc
imp: