[theory6]

Hello all

Ive been reading different posts here for a while and trying to search out answers but i figured i might as well ask.. (plus im new at working on cars)

anyways, i just got a 72 Nova recently. Its my first project car. It has a 327ci with a th400 trans. It seems lately its been having problems starting. I turn the key and it doesnt crank over. I have a batt gauge inside showing about 12v but as soon as i turn the key it drops to 6v and keeps gradually dropping from there. I've tried jump starting it and it didn't work, tried using a portable jump start and still nothing. I can crank it for about 10 seconds but i stop before i go too long and then if i try again it doesnt even crank. I'm wondering if it is the battery itself since it has the side posts and from what I've heard those cause a lot of problems for people.. any ideas?
Once I get it back to the house i'll probably replace the batt and batt cables and hopefully that'll help, but i figured i'd see other opinions before i go spend money on something i might not need.

[alittle1]

Possible dead short in the battery. Don't try boosting with that battery in place anymore_ it could explode in your face.

Put another battery in its place and try to turn it over. If it clicks, but won't turn, it could be a cable issue or starter is burnt out. Make sure that your cables are cleaned.

Also, make sure that the little red wire that goes to the positive battery clamp is on securely and the other end connects to the terminal block on the rad support on the right (pass.) side.

Go to this link to learn more: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...p/t-62225.html

[theory6]

Thanks for the info.

I went through everything.. Found that the ignition cylinder was bad (well, original from '72). After taking off the steering wheel and replacing it, it has started every time the first time since... hopefully this is the last of the starting problems haha.. thanks again

[theory6]

Update:
So another question comes along now...
The day i tried to start up the car after work, which is when i had the ignition cylinder problem. After I switched it out, the car started right up. I drove it to the gas station the other day and it died on me again. It just cranked over for about 6-10 seconds (which i tried a few times) and then after i tried it again, the accessories came on, but it didn't crank at all. I waited about 10 minutes and tried once more and it cranked over but then after a second try it didnt do anything at all (except turn on radio/accessories again). I went out to pick it up this morning and it fired right up. I've been reading articles on stevesnovasite and from old posts of docvette but I cant seem to figure out why it doesnt start sometimes. The only thing I can think of is that maybe it overheats and wont start?
Appreciate any input anyone has...

[mustangsal]

I used to have an '81 Camaro that once the engine warmed up, I'd have to let it cool a while before it would start again. Ended up being the starter. When it got hot, it stopped working all together.

Just a thought...

[T-bucket23]

If your voltage is dropping that low either your battery is junk, you have a bad connection somewhere in the battery cables or your starter is drawing to much.

If you have a bad connection a jump is not going to help.

Pull the battery and have it charged and tested, remove and clean the battery connections from the block and the starter. If the battery test good after a full charge, put it in and see if it cranks.

How old is the battery by the way

[cobalt327]

There is a starter switch located on the steering column under the dash. It's connected to the cylinder lock via a long heavy wire rod.

This switch can go bad and cause intermittent no start conditions. It can also go out of adjustment. The mounting screws (either 1/4" or 5/16", IIRC) have to be loosened, then the switch can be adjusted.

[alittle1]

This is the GM ignition switch Cobalt is talking about in the picture below. The pink wire is the 12V power wire in and the red one is the out wire. Make sure that the rod from the head of the column is activating the switch when you turn the ignition LOCK back and forth. You can feel it if you put your left hand under the dash onto the column and locate the switch.