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Old 11-25-2013, 10:15 AM
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Starting Project

Starting a Henry J gasser project and was wondering what's the next thing to do after a power wash. I'll be removing the body from the frame. Should I do the floor panels before body removal? I'm gonna start at the frame and come up from there. sbc, th350, 9" etc.
Planing on spraying all bolts etc with WD40 and let set a couple days before disassembly.
It's a complete car without interior. Looking for a good way to remove or treat the body rust/paint before or after removal. Possibly sandblast or the new dustless power blast method?
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:20 PM
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i would brace it up do the floors and any other rust repair before removing the body if you have to cars (and parts)like to move when they separate apart
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:34 PM
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I think I would do as much to the body as I could before separating the body from the frame. Make it as solid as possible.

BTW, with a healthy drive train, you may be better off building a new frame from scratch, along with roll cage etc, so you should deal with that while fixing the floors.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:46 PM
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Read through this thread it is a good starting point. Even if you decide to buy the replacements instead of make everything like John has done, it will give you an idea of the process. Good luck with the build post pictures of progress

53 Belair conv rust repair

Kelly
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62 View Post
I think I would do as much to the body as I could before separating the body from the frame. Make it as solid as possible.

BTW, with a healthy drive train, you may be better off building a new frame from scratch, along with roll cage etc, so you should deal with that while fixing the floors.
I'd like to leave it as stock as it would be in the 60's with the exception of a 350, 11:1, 2x4 on a tunnel ram, Ford 9" and TH350. I understand the frames were pretty good on them with a little boxing and an x member.
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:04 PM
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maybe 40 year ago steel tubing is cheap and you get that WOW factor from your buddies plus thats alot of motor for your fram alway build over not under then have to do it again i know
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:28 PM
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maybe 40 year ago steel tubing is cheap and you get that WOW factor from your buddies plus thats alot of motor for your fram alway build over not under then have to do it again i know
Point taken, thanks.
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:00 PM
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J roadster

In the early 60's a kid lived up the street from my folks , He converted his J to a 2 passenger roadster, the windshield glass was about 8 In high, New sheet metal formed between the Qtr panels and around the seat back. It looked like a sports car.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:51 AM
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You may want to set your engine and trans in for mock up before you do the floors. If you need more clearance you may be cutting up the floors.
As for removing the body before or after floors.... I say after. You want your body mounts and bushing to be accurate/good before you try to square things up and weld solid.
Just my .02 and that my be over priced.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by timothale View Post
In the early 60's a kid lived up the street from my folks , He converted his J to a 2 passenger roadster, the windshield glass was about 8 In high, New sheet metal formed between the Qtr panels and around the seat back. It looked like a sports car.
When in high school in the 60's Albert Tim had a Henry J, 327, 4 sp, etc. When ever he was home from college I'd keep an eye on his house and when he was out in the carport messing with the J I'd stop n we'd talk cars and of course end up taking a ride. Man, was that thing mean!! He had two of them. Both bought by his mom from sears and handed down. To feel that front end come up and the frame twist was almost as good as an orgasm!
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:39 AM
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416ford Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:13 AM
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Just a few links that may come in handy......
?51 Henry J Gasser
1951 52 53 54 Kaiser Henry J Frame Dimensions Align | eBay
https://www.cachassisworks.com/c-236...drag-race.aspx
Mark Williams Enterprises - Chassis Components
S&W Race Car Dragster Chassis, Roll bars, Cages, Suspensions, Parts
Drag racing suspension, parts, four links, ladder and wheelie bars
Drag Racing Chassis Kits from RJ Race Cars Chassis Builders
Top Drag Racing Chassis Builders for Tube Chassis Kits - Jerry Bickel Race Cars
http://suncoastracecars.com/CHASSIScatalog.pdf

and some thoughts.....
I've been around drag strips for most of my life and I've seen cars go up for sale. I've seen cars snapped up right away and I've seen other cars that never did sell. The difference is that the ones that sold had been chassis certed and had a current NHRA tag on the chassis. Nobody wants to buy a car that is not tagged because they have no idea what it will take in terms of money and effort to make the car NHRA legal.

If you want to incorporate the OEM frame into the build, I very strongly urge you to contact SFI and purchase the chassis plans for 25.5A, shown here.....
http://www.sfifoundation.com/wp-cont...der%20Form.pdf
Building to these specs will allow operation down to 7.50 E.T..... With a 7.50 tag on the chassis, you can go to any NHRA dragstrip in the world and run Super Gas or Super Comp brackets.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:24 PM
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I agree with removing the body and replacing the mounts before any floor work BUT, you need to brace it before removal. The floor is very weak in places and could shift. I use thin wall 1" square tubing. Cross brace the rockers to roof pillars, the door openings and firewall to mid braces. THEN remove the mounts and replace.

And forget the WD 40 as a penetrant. It dries out after a few hours. I use JB 80 and PB Blaster, which ARE penetrants. It doesn't look like penetrating oil is going to be very effective on that car. You may well need to use heat on most fasteners to prevent breakage.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I agree with removing the body and replacing the mounts before any floor work BUT, you need to brace it before removal. The floor is very weak in places and could shift. I use thin wall 1" square tubing. Cross brace the rockers to roof pillars, the door openings and firewall to mid braces. THEN remove the mounts and replace.

And forget the WD 40 as a penetrant. It dries out after a few hours. I use JB 80 and PB Blaster, which ARE penetrants. It doesn't look like penetrating oil is going to be very effective on that car. You may well need to use heat on most fasteners to prevent breakage.
TMP is correct in my opinion. The easiest, fastest and most dependable way to get the fasteners loose is with a torch with small tip. Heat the bolt, or nut, until it is a nice cherry red. Then let it cool until all the color is gone and take it out.
it will usually not only come out easily but in most cases will leave the threads in re-usable conditions.

You have a great project. Keep your camera handy. We would love to follow along as you build it.

Do brace it if you are going to take it off the frame. It takes little time, little material and will save who knows how much grief when you are ready to mate it back to a frame.

John
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