Starting on Surface Rust - Several Questions...
I'm gonna start on the '78 soon. I'm tired of lookin' at it and I want it ready for the 40th anniversary of the Bronco next May at the truck show.
So after talking to some people, it looks like if I take it to a shop and IF they decide to work on it, it'll cost me $1,000-$1,500 that I don't have. :(
I gotta work on it myself. :( First off, here's a couple pics:
Attacking the rust - it was mentioned to me that one guy likes a chemical stripper for older vehicles. Dad suggested a wire wheel on the grinder. Which would be better to strip all the paint off to bare metal?
I've been doing reading on Rust Bullet and talked to some guys on the Bronco site that have used it. They seem pretty pleased with it. Is this a good option for me? It seems to be easy to use and can hold the truck over until Spring when I can save up for paint. One fella said it turned 'dingy' after a period of time and he didn't think he'd like it for the outside of the truck, but I figure the dingy primer look is better than this stinkin' rust.
What about POR-15, I know some people swear by it, but I was under the assumption it was bette suited for things like the chassis or driveline parts. I want something like primer that I can paint the whole truck in to prep it good, stop the rust and hold me over until I can paint it.
What are your thoughts? Thanks. :thumbup:
Oh and here's a link to the whole album with all the Bronco pics for a better idea of what kinda shape this thing is in. It needs new fenders and major work on the roof from a little tree falling incident. :drunk:
My favorite way to strip layers of old paint is with a 8" 36 grit disk on my 8" orbital sander. Then sand whats remaining with 80 grit on a da sander to take out the 36 grit scratches. The important thing to remember is not to get metal too hot or grind off metal if doing it by sanding or grinding. Chemical stripper can be used but is messy and probably will take a couple application and the remaining sanded off with 80 grit on a da again. Don't forget to neutralize the stripper and get rid of it all so it doesn't create paint problems later. I haven't tried the stripping disk you are talking about so I can't really comment on that. I am not a big fan of the rust convertors. The best for a job that will last in my opinion is to blast all rust pits to get rid of it all or replace metal if holes or weak. A wire wheel will work to get in pits, but I think blasting does a better job. Also treat the backside of the panels. Then apply an epoxy primer. If it were mine, I would get rid of all rust and then apply an epoxy primer. Then when you can spring for the painting, the epoxy can be sanded, bodywork done on top of it, and then more epoxy urethane primer and paint. In Wisconsin we have our share of rust.
I was reading earlier about the epoxy primer, too. I didn't know there were different primers, one being porous and allowing moisture, the other - expoxy - being better for stopping rust.
Where do I find epoxy primer and what is the price like?
I think I should have held onto and read all those Eastwood catalogs they sent me. D'oh.
Many on here recommend SPI on here that barry K sells who is also located in GA. I don't have the link offhand, but I am sure someone will have it soon. I've never used spi yet myself, but they are suppose to be good products at a good price. If not your local paint supply store will carry it, its not too high priced, will in some of the upper lines like ppg dplf it is a little pricey, but there are also lower lines like dupont nason and ppg omni. If you want to be absolutely sure of compatability you should use the same line is the paint you are going to use, but I've used omni epoxy primer many times under marhyde 2k urethane primer and different paint lines without a problem. I still have some eastwood catalogs from the 80's when I got there catalogs around somewhere. Never did order from them though, they seemed a bit pricey on many things compared to others.
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